Hughes

pretty cool, i bet those get them nipples cold playing it without a shirt haha

Hi, I am currently looking for a set of EMG 85 and 81 or a set of Seymour Duncan Live Wires. If none of those show up, I will gladdly accept Seymour duncan Sh-2 and SH-4 JBs...thanks and yeah i would have to either send a money order or do a COD

i dont think you have to worry, as long as you dont say its a Fender then you're fine.

i dont think you have to worry, as long as you dont say its a Fender then you're fine.

i suppose i could whip up an order on there

im giving a flat radius fretboard a try, Neal Moser says they play like butterand alot easier to make if you arent sure how to make a radiused sanding block

i will be sure to give that a try, thanks man....while im here, would you recommend painting a tremolo? since the parts i want to paint have to string contact so if i used car engine paint i should be fine shouldnt i?

i do have the know-how on drilling and tapping a new hole, but the problem is im not sure i could find a steel rod small enough that would fit the original sized hole

some of you may remember me telling you about an old kahler i took of a platinum BC Rich Strat. well i put it back on so i could use the guitar at school. Problem is, one of the saddles has a really rusty roller that doesnt move which makes changing strings difficult. second, the same saddles height adjusting screws are rusted tight and wont budge, i even poured WD-40 on it and it did nothing. Third, the bloody thing does stay in tune more then 10 seconds, is that from not tightening the saddle screws below the bridge plate?

Thanks

Oh and its a Kahler 2500

if you have more megadeth books and metallica books, id take them but only if you have quite a few to make it worth both our whiles

ok so i got some old beatup BC Rich platinum strat which i took all the parts out of. im putting them back in so i can use the guitar and leave it at school.

it has 2 single coils, 1 humbucker, 1 tone, 1 volume, 3 way selector, and a coil tap/mini switch.

anyone know where i can find a schematic that will work for this? i need it done for tomorrow!

thanks alot guys

it'll be fine, im sure if 300lbs men can sit on pine furniture, a guitar should be fine?

what megadeth/slayer/metallica books?

i wouldnt recommend routing anything free hand let alone the neck pocket, you dont want any gaps in there.

doesnt a noise gate do that?

Ever watch the show Mythbusters? they showed the strength of poplar...had around a 600lbs presure limit. Its by all means strong. Id just buy some maple, it isnt to bad for prices

thanks for your responses. It is two piece but from the same plank. The maple top slid a bit off near the bottom so I'm using the mahogany joint as my center on the back. I have made a bit more progress such as adding the bridge and trem cavity. (The back cavity is quite deep, will 3/4" be good enough for pickup cavity depth?).

I have also straightend the the neck joint and slotted the fretboard.

Hopefully I can get back in shop class soon

As far as templates go: http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/electricguitar.htm

I personally just used my Bronze to sketch on paper to transfer the shape to plywood where I then made my template

to actually make templates i do:

body - i rough sketch it on my plywood, cut with a bandsaw then use a drum sander to make everything flush

neck pocket - a straight piece of pine and a router. Double stick tape the the straight piece of wood to the outline of the neck and then use a cutter bit

control cavity (long hotdog style one found on bronze BC riches) - I take one of those gigantic bits (forget the name) and drill two holes the right length. then i use a straight edges to connect the to holes and rout it out until where the part begins to curves. perfect round edges.

i do this two times, one big for the ledge, the other a bit smaller for the deep part

testing the new bass on the crapper eh? heh

anyways looks awesome

very cool. where did you aqcuire the BC Rich neck?

from what i recall, the tilt allows for better intonation. The bridge is too small for proper intonation on the low E string so thats why it's tilted. Correct?

building a guitar has probably been the most fun, and best thing ive did with my time in school. go for it man, you will enjoy it alot

soft, brittle, and knotty...looks vintage though when all varnished

i want to refinish my BC Rich 80s strat with something that will make look alot more respectful. I am kind of leaning towards a snakeskin finish, but not certain. Any ideas? i get like 4 shop classes next year and one this semester.

any oppinions will be thought of, thanks

If you don't have a router to flush trim the edges, I'd say scroll saw since the blades can bend and work around tight edges whereas a bandsaw just stops running if you take a tight turn so thats why you SHOULD have a router if you have a bandsaw.