dave293

The calculator gives you the measurements to the mounting screws of different bridges. So you can't use the measurements for different bridges as the positions of mounting screws are different.

Buying or borrowing a copy of "make your own electric guitar" by Melvyn hiscock would be a good idea.

I have the tele template from GBT and it has the same problem, so it's not just an error in yours. I didn't find this out until after I had routed a body (should have checked it first). Luckly I fixed it so it wont be a problem under a solid finish.

I don't know any formula, but on the MIMF library there is a PDF with 15', 18' and 25' radiuses, for this purpose.

Cool, I might have to pick up a copy. Thanks for the heads up.

I can't see how it could be done with a router seeing as the bevel is not constant around the body.

Are there any dates set for courses?

Probably, i may choose something different though. I've got some wood from the same board as the orginal thats just not wide enought so i'm thinking maybe a neckthru jackson style soloist.

Yeah I guess so but I was really unhappy with the way it was turning out, i know i can do much better. It was hard to get the motivation to work on it.

I know i've been bad with updating this thread (tbh I forgot I even made it.)

This is what the guitar looks like as of today.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/Picture-1.jpg

I smashed it because there were a few things on the guitar which i was not 100% happy with, I know I can do much better. It would have cost me more to finish the guitar than what I paid for the wood and i would have ended up with something i'm not happy with. I'm going to start over, do some things different and end up with a better guitar that i am happy with.

Now the real reason for bumping this thread, I have a another project, a tele

-2 piece alder body

-rock maple neck

-east indian rosewood fretboard

With Hardware

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/DSC00803.jpg

Details of neck binding.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/DSC00783.jpg

I have plenty more pics and progress shots in my photobucket.

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/?start=0

I might be able to help you out if no-one closer is able to.

Dave

Thanks

$900 is abit too expensive.

If omega does have a supplier i'd love to know.

Dave

Could you post the supplier please, i am looking to buy a blanket as well a supplier down here would be great.

Thanks

dave

Cool.

I had problems with blade twisting when i first my saw. I found it was mostly caused by not enought tension on the blade and trying to cut too tight a curve for the blade i was using.

Dave

I'm rather happy with how the pickgaurd is, and i'm pretty content on rear routing the body. I honestly hate pickgaurds, just because they cover up a very nice paintjob/top. I just don't like the way they look. Although, your suggestion isn't have bad. I'll have to think about it

Enhance not hide.

I like the new design , not really the colour. A fender sonic blue finish would look great in my opinion.

Hey,

I finished wiring up my amp for the pickup, but i'm having problems finding wire for the driver coil in austraila. psw where do you get yours from?

I don't know why people are having trouble elsewhere, but most electronics places have it...I know my local Dic Smith carry it, even in the local shopping centre store and Jaycar would too. Sometimes known as Magnet Wire, but down here just insulated copper wire, choke or inductor wire, or cross over wire as that is what it is most used for. A small roll of 0.2mm wire costs less than A$7, as I recall, and will make at least two drivers.

Thanks i've be searching for magnet wire and getting no results. Is this the right stuff?

thanks

Dave

Hey,

I finished wiring up my amp for the pickup, but i'm having problems finding wire for the driver coil in austraila. psw where do you get yours from?

Dave

I'm thinking of using a reed switch and wiring the winder up to my computer via the serial port (as described HERE)

That way I can use the computer to count the turns and set an alarm off when its wound enough.

I made one of those counters and it works well, i'm still looking for a motor for my winder though.

I thinking of using a stepper motor, it seems perfect you can control the speed, number of turns, direction of turns from a computer, my only worry is it won't have enougth power to spin the bobbin.

I've heard the same thing as mattia in regards to rolling the wire of the spool.

Hey,

I am going to be finishing 2 guitars soon and am thinking of getting a spray setup. I have already done 2 refinshes with cans, but i want to spray a nicer finish.

I am not going to be finishing guitars in high numbers often, maybe 2-3 a year.

Do i want to be looking into a HVLP setup or not?

Would a gravity feed or conventional feed gun be better?

What size gun and compressor would be needed?

I am also looking into the KTM-9 vs nitro as well. I like that ktm is more environmently friendly and i can get pigments and tints easy as they can be bought from overseas, but i have heard of it being soft.

For nitro finding pigments similar to the colortone stewmac stuff in Australia is proving to be difficult, if anyone had a source it would be greatly appreciated.

One last thing, does anyone have the book Guitar Finishing Step-By-Step By Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie? How is it?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Dave

The painting looks killer. You may want to read the pic posting rules those pics are abit large.

It sounds like your bandsaw isn't properly adjusted. The blade shouldn't come loose like that. Spend the time to adjust it well and it should cut better.

If i has gotten noiser since you adjusted check the blade is not coming into contact with the top or bottom guide bearings and that the blade is tensioned correctly.

^ I used a rasp and some files.

It's looking nice so far.

How does the Silky Oak compare to Red or White Oak? Is it harder/softer?

I have no experience used any oak so i can't answer that, but silky oak is fairly soft.

looking good, one question why didnt you use the 4+2 headstock, no string tees unless your using tuners with stagered height posts

as for finish id recomend using some of that crome illusion paint or whater its called, if youve seen a tvr you'll know what i mean, you should be able to get something simialar if not the same as the mystic dream finish

The reason for the 6 inline headstock was because i already had some 6 inline tuners lying around anyway.

A friend of mine built a partially lacewood guitar a while back, and just under a clear nitro finish, it turns this stunning, warm reddish-brown color. Your lacewood is lighter than his by the looks of it, so I'd imagine it'd age to a great, warm orangey-red even without a colored lacquer.

Of course, I'll always advocate a clear finish on a guitar, unless it's the rattiest poplar Lowe's has to offer, so do what makes you happy. All I'm saying is that under a clear finish, it'll still be reddish, but a much more natural red color that I personally would prefer. If you want a cherry red guitar, then by all means go for it.

As for a Chromalusion finish, while it'd look pretty cool (especially on a guitar as curvy and beveled as this one), the wood is far too pretty for me to be able to advocate anything but a transparent finish.

I like this build a lot-- keep up the good work!

The wood is a nice orangey pink, the more i work on this guitar, the more i'm leaning towards a clear finish, i would be shame to hide the wood and the one peice body. But i wont worry about finishes untill i'm up to it.

Today i routed the neck pocket.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075002.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075001.jpg

There you can see the bevels, they are still -really- rought.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075003.jpg

It's starting to look like a guitar.

^ I haven't decided on the finish yet, i was thinking maybe a translucent cherry red SG style of finish.