dave293

How heavy is the silky oak body?

It's actually pretty light at the moment.

azz-230- Have a look a matons website they have a page where they discuss australian tonewoods like bunya, Victorian Blackwood, Queensland Maple and Queensland Walnut

http://www.maton.com.au/timbers.asp

Some other woods i have heard of being used are

Victorian Ash/ Tasmainian oak, Hoop Pine, Lacewood, king william pine, tasmainian mytle and tasmianian huon pine.

You probably know more about wood than I do, but are you sure thats silky oak? I bought some silky oak veneer and it looked nothing like that, it had a sort of crazy spotty grain pattern.

Yeah it is silky oak. It has that pattern but its not very large and can't be seen in the photos, Hopefully it will show up much better when it's sanded and finished.

I don't think lmii even sells radius dishes anymore. I went on their site and couldn't find them anywhere.

They sell them but they call they hollow forms.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....er=Hollow+Forms

This i my first build, it is based on a EBMM john petrucci model

The specs are:

1 piece silky oak body

rock maple neck with jarrah fretboard

24 medium jumbo frets

12" radius

25.5 inch scale length

hardtail bridge string through

2 humbuckers with 3way switch 1 volume, 1 tone

This is the slab of silky oak i started with, it's large enough to make 2 one peice bodies.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...rrrrrrrrrrr.jpg

Here it is planed to thickness.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/b26a1c90.jpg

The body rough cut out.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...oughcutbody.jpg

The body sanded to shape.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...oughcutbody.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/sanded002.jpg

The bevels started.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/001001.jpg

The truss rod slot routed, the bit wandered abit on the first pass, but the channel is straight the rest of the way down.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/001002.jpg

The neck rough cut out.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456001.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456002.jpg

The neck sanded closer to final shape and the tuner holes drilled.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/254001.jpg

Thicknessing the headstock.

First pass http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/254002.jpg

Jarrah fretboad slotted

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456003.jpg

Truss rod adjustment hole being drilled

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274005.jpg

How it ended up.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274003.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274001.jpg

Fretboard being clamped on.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274002.jpg

Fretboard flush with neck and the curve at the headstock sanded.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284001.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284002.jpg

Comments and constructive critism very welcome. Sorry if thats too mant pictures.

Dave

Dave,

If youre building a Fox style bender youll need ceramic sockets for the light bulbs. Dont under any circumstances use normal plastic batten holder fittings..theyll melt and youll probably burn down your workshop. PM me and Ill give you adress of a herpatologist supplier over in Queensland who can supply the proper ceramic lamp holders.

I built myself a Fox style bender but I dont use it much...I do most of my side bending by hand over a hot pipe. Not as easy as the side bender but I like the challenge and Im old fashioned.

Dish forms...I bought mine from LMI. Could have made my own but dont really have the time. For drawing up large radius curves I use a pencil tied to a piece of string. I had a huge garage built just so I could do this!

Cheers Martin

Pm Sent.

Yeah i'd heard about using ceramic socket but haven't located a supplier yet.

I have though about the LMII dishes but for the $80US plus shipping to australia, i figured it would be better to build my own.

cheers

Dave

SwedishLuthier- Thanks, Pm sent.

Mattia- Thanks i found 2 different spreadsheets and a couple of useful sites.

Cheers fryovanni and mattia.

fryovanni- Thanks for that info. Btw i was planning on useing a mold, it seemed it would be better to get consistant results.

Mattia- thanks aswell, i will have a search for the spreadsheet.

Looks as though for the moment i will be busy making molds and jigs as well as making my electrics. I'll post my acoustic build when i start it.

Thanks

Dave

The company probably just changed it's name and just put a new decal in the old necks.

I'm planning on building my first acoustic soon. At the moment i am building tools and jigs i will need.

I'm pretty sure i get how to make a go-bar deck. But today i was preparing to make some radius dishes using a radiused sled and a router, then i thought, how am i going to draw the 15 and 25 Foot radiuses? Is there a trick to it or will i have to set up a 25 foot peice of string to draw it?(if you know what i mean) I have read some articles in the mimf library and couldn't find anything on it? What are methods of doing it?

I have also thought about building a fox style bender using LMIs plans has anyone built one these? how was it?

If anyone has other jigs or tools that they use that are easy to build and that they find useful ideas are much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

The steam can cause some blushing on the finish, but even Bryan Galloup had this same problem on the video. He has a trick to remove it that I'm going to try later on!!! Here's a closeup of the headstock. The other scratch marks on the finish was there before I started.

I had that same problem while removing a neck today, make sure you post how you fixed it.

This project looks cool i love seeing restorations, good luck.

Also Durobond paints if your near sydney.

http://www.durobond.com.au/

You can set up rails at an angle like mykas neck pocket jig (sorry don't have link someone else will be able to post it) or could shim your routing template

In case you need it here is a calculator to work out the neck angle you need.

http://www.tundraman.com/jigs/NeckAngle.CFM

Thanks for the advice.

I will put this neck aside for another project where i will laminate it with other woods. I will buy a new blank for this project.

^The gap in the middle is 2.5mm.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/bow.jpg

Ok, i may just buy a new blank for this guitar.

But would it be safe to use this board as neck laminations instead of wasting the board? Or would it still be to risky?

Thanks for the replies, mammoth i am trying that method now , thanks.

I have a maple neck blank with a slight bow in it. It is very close to final thickness so i can't plane too much off.

Now for the question, Is there any way i cant straighten this blank so i can use it?

I have had weights on the blank for almost a week to try and straighten it, but it is not working.

Thanks for any repiles.

http://www.mimf.com/library/watkins_sandpaper_sharpening.htm

May be of intrest to some. I just got some nice chisels and will be following that guide.

mdf dosent hold screws very well so that might be a problem

it buzzes when i play a open note btw

i dont really want to mess with the truss rod as i've never done

it before

i have a epiphone sg and it has frett buzz on the first fret how do i fix this do i raise the bridge or adjust the truss rod

by the way its a set neck