marksound

I think we've gone completely off-topic, so to get us back on track ...

If you sit very still you can hear the wood scream.

This thread is ridiculous. Pointless. A waste of bandwidth.

Please, continue!

Firstly, don't use so much water. Soak your paper, then shake off the excess.

Some people have used a blush remover product to reflow lacquer. If you go that direction you'll have to wait for the lac to cure again, but if it comes down to that or stripping/starting over, I got time.

Use the Micromesh pads instead of buffing...it gives a super-smooth surface, I haven't had any problem with stickiness. In fact, sometimes I have the opposite problem--it almost feels too slippery at first (that goes away after playing for a few minutes as things warm up).

Micromesh is the schiznitz. I never wax a finish.I just don't have any "sticky neck" problems.

Just yesterday I finished a new project neck. Wetsanded to 2000, then used the Micromesh pads on the front and back of the headstock to 12000. Headstock is nice and shiny, while the rest is a satin sheen that should polish up on its own from playing wear.

First time doing it this way, so we'll see how I likes it.

Seems like I remember something like a silver vine or something somewhere ...

If Jon wants to see a silver strip inlaid, he'll just have to turn around from his workbench and check out the guitar on the wall

Oh, yeah. How could I forget?

Stew-Mac's Megaswitch takes a larger slot knob (sold here). If the Superswitch is the same, problem solved. If not, sorry. That's all I got.

The only solid chrome Strat covers I've ever seen are on the Lace ChromeDomes, and I'm pretty sure you can't buy them separately. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

You can't go wrong with these pickups. I have 2 Strat sets already installed (1 in my main player) and a Tele set ready to go in when the nitro has cured. I love them and for the price they can't be beat.

If you're looking for vintage tone, you could do worse.

The old Strat Elite knobs had the rubber grip. I've seen similar ones here.

I'm working on building a tele, and I can't find a part I want. Maybe it's not made, but who knows. I want it to have she standard p/u set, but I don't want the standard bridge. I'd like to put a tune-o-matic bridge on it, but I can't do this without putting the bridge single coil in some kind of mounting ring. It's this ring that I can't find. Rings for the neck aren't any problem to find, but bridge rings don't seem to exist. Do they exist & I can't find them, or am I stuck with a traditional tele bridge?

You could always mount the pickup directly to the body like on the old lap steels and the new GE Smith Tele.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnQYoRYedF0

PLEASE PEOPLE CAN WE UPDATE THIS THREAD WITH A GOOD LINK BECAUSE ITS PINNED AND ITS USELESS.

That's a good idea. Please post it as soon as you find it.

Not sure if this belongs in this section or not. I am using a blade switch on my telecaster, and the slot through the wood top get rather ugly. It is usable, just not pretty. I saw on the thread for the S7 that Ibanez has a metal cover for those switches. That would work nicely for me except they only offer it in black and the rest of the hardware is gold. So I am thinking of making one from brass. Between my home shop and the tools at work I can make one easily enough. But can I get solid brass to shine as nice and not look like a different color than the gold plated hardware. If I do get it to polish as nicely, what do I need to do to prevent it from tarnishing and corroding?

Clear lacquer, same as on trombones and doorknobs and all that other brass stuff. It will eventually wear off, but that's the nature of the beast.

My first question is, what brand is that guiatar body? I am guessing it is not a Fener. I am not a Fender guru, but that does not look like the normal neck pocket on a Fender. Fender usually has a 3/8" diameter corner into a rounded end of the heel on their Strats. And I am pretty sure that is what the neck from Warmoth would be cut to fit into. Your neck pocket has a large radius corner and a flat back. Meaning the neck will not fit properly.

That's the current standard production neck pocket rout for US and MIM models.

Only a very few Fender models had the longer-heeled neck. Measure the pocket. It should be 3" x 2 3/16". If that's the case you can use any 21 or 22 fret (overhang) neck, including Warmoth, USACG, B Hefner, Musikraft, Mighty Mite, etc.

A friend of mine has a Heartbreaker that is just amazing. Another friend has a Carvin Vintage 33 that's pretty impressive too (the 33 is out of production but the Nomad is available).

Play as many amps as you can find and let your ears decide.

Sorry Greg...Once again I tuned out of your rebuttal after the first sentence.Blame it on the proliferation of television dramas,but I can't stay focused on such dry,dusty posts.

I am sure it was great though...I bet you really told me something.

which is the only thing Wes has ever gotten right about me

You know me.I take what I see and make broad based generalizations about the comic tendencies of your personality pitfalls...it's what I do and is also a good comic technique.

Well, I wouldn't buy one at any price. Of course, I have no intention of ever buying another electric guitar, period. If I can't build it I don't need it.

Oh my gawd

any help would be greatly appreciated

Read this. Also get the Stew Mac book, and Drak has one that's supposed to be really good. Can't remember the name.

After all that if you have specific questions someone will be happy to answer them.

Holy crap Wes, for a second I thought we lost another one. What a relief.

Hey Drak, you know why old men wear their pants so high? No? Well, stick around.

Happy birthday!

This works for me, YMMV.

I use a round toothpick with the sharp pointed ends because that's what I have handy. I stick the toothpick in the hole as far as it will go and mark the depth. Then I cut it just a hair shorter than the depth of the hole, coat it with wood glue and put it in pointed end out. Reinstall the screw and button and let it set, preferably overnight.

I've had 3 strap buttons come loose in the last couple of months. I finally figured out it was because the straplock screws I was using were just a rch smaller than the OEM screws I took out. Go figure.

For a complete noob I would recommend building small electronics projects first, mainly to learn to troubleshoot your work. Believe it or not, there will come a time when you have to know how to troubleshoot.

So, I have an SG body that's in great shape and is ready to start carving, but the previous owner cut the holes for the bridge and bridge stop and they look very poorly done. What would you guys recommend I do to "start over" with those holes?

Can I fill them with wood filler and still be able to stain the body without being able to see those fills?

Is wood filler even an option?

Thank you in advance!

Take a look at these restorations for an example of how/where wood filler is used, and where plugs or new wood is used.

Here is Fender's setup guide: click