marksound

You should steal this design.

Of the 4 MM necks I have, every one buzzed on the high E with the stock nut. Replace it, and while you're at it check the scale. Double the nut to 12th fret measurement and that's what you should have as the total length.

extended warranty on a computer? That's madness! The thing will be obsolete before it breaks down.

Not at my house.

I honestly can't argue this one. When it comes to computers I often tell people if they aren't comfortable with computers at a 'techie' level, extended isn't such a bad idea because they can often make a simple problem worse.

You know this already, but in 2004 my family bought 3 computers. One bit the dust just out of warranty (didn't buy extended ), one had to be sent in to the factory for repair, and the other was replaced under warranty. I learned my lesson.

Here's one way of doing a fix. This guy specializes in SGs but it's the same concept.

click

I used the Minwax poly over Rustolem on my avatar guitar. It has a bit of an amber tint, so be aware. I wetsanded and polished mine, but if you're careful with your spraying you might not have to.

extended warranty on a computer? That's madness! The thing will be obsolete before it breaks down.

Not at my house.

I only buy extended warranties on two things: used cars and computers.

Nearly everything else is either worn out at the end of its factory warranty, rarely breaks down, or is inexpensive to repair or replace.

Pull that cheap soft plastic nut and throw it in the burn barrel (oops--not supposed to mention the burn barrel ). I don't know why MM even bothers to ship their otherwise decent necks with those things. If you're not comfortable making your own nut take it to a local shop and pay to have one made. You won't regret it.

Once you have a properly cut nut you can continue the troubleshooting, but I'd bet you won't need to.

I promised to update when I'd tried my Norman Nutfiles, so...

They work really well. They cut smoothly and create a very nice round cut. You can use the back edge as a straight edge to see how close you are to final depth, and once you're at te depth you want, you can burnish the slot with a little cutting paste on the back of the file. I'm really impressed, especially for an inexpensive product.

I have them too and I loooooooove them.

If I dent up my guitar with a spoon, it's going to impact the tone on some molecular level, too, but I'm not about to try to strategically place tone-enhancing dents.

You call it tone-enhancing spoon dents, I call it mojo.

Using a jigsaw you have to go slow. If you heat that blade up it will bend, as you've discovered for yourself. Don't force the blade through the wood. Let it do the work.

I recently read to avoid your stain coming out blotchy/patchy a washcoat of shellac or lacquer

should be applied first to the bare wood (in my case, lacewood), a light sand then apply the stain and it should come out quite evenly

My question is will this method work if I use waterbased analine dye (its all I have) and if so would I need to

spray it or can I wipe it on?

As far as I know, water based dye won't stick to lacquer. I don't know about shellac. If the dye is a powder or concentrate you can use it in alcohol, thinner, clear lacquer, etc., whatever is compatible with your sealer coat. If you use a sealer coat the dye won't actually dye the wood. That's what sealer does. It seals the wood.

Some (like Hamer) don't use dye on figured wood at all. They use an oil (like boiled linseed maybe?) then use toner/shader coats over that. The oil enhances the figure and the toner adds the color.

http://www.hamerguitars.com/?fa=workshoptour&tournum=17

http://www.hamerguitars.com/?fa=workshoptour&tournum=19

It doesn't matter what you use, but how you use it.

Very true but a les paul with a dimebucker wont exactly sound good if you know what i mean.

If you already know what will sound good, why are you asking?

If you have a sound in mind, that means you've already heard it. If you've already heard it, go to the source and see what that person uses. If you uses similar equipment, with a lot of practice, you might get close. More likely you'll end up sounding just like you.

By the way, in the right hands a Les Paul with a Dimebucker might surprise you. Like I said, it's not what you use but how you use it.

Hey guys so im nearly finished making my ibanez look like a guitar again, sanded the body and head stock, coated the body with some matt finish stuff 3 times, sprayed the pickguard, till i can afford a new one,

And now i just want to clean the neck and head stock slightly just to get the stickiness of hand oil off, however i dont have the materials or patience to clean it the way people recomend with all the ivory soap, steel wool or naptha etc. and i really cant be bothered getting them,

Is there any simple method of cleaning it mabye just with some sort of soap?

thanks

Don't use Ivory soap on your guitar. Use naphtha and steel wool on a rosewood fretboard, then condition it with a light coat of mineral oil, lemon oil, fretboard conditioner, etc. Don't use steel wool or any other abrasive on surfaces you want to keep shiny. The naphtha will soften most any gunk that's accumulated, and a soft cloth is all you need to wipe it off. Anything left that the naphtha won't take off needs further attention.

Saying you can't be bothered with doing something the right way is the absolute best way to be ignored. If you go that route, come back with your horror stories and be sure to bring lots of pictures.

Seems like I just read where even Gibson is burning their rejects now. If it's good enough for Gibson ... um ... yeah.

Never mind.

It doesn't matter what you use, but how you use it.

What a maroon.

Pretty much all of the low end guitars are made in the same Asian factories as all the rest of the low end guitars. That aside, the best beginner guitar is the one the beginner likes and feels comfortable with. A good setup (and a good teacher) are more important than which guitar.

Best I can tell, the Peavey HP is pretty much your "hybrid."

I'll take them. PM sent.

Mark, you are going to need a set of pickups for that Tele you are going to build.

Yeah, you have no idea.

I'm starting to agree with the anti-burning wing of the forum and I think I've come up with a couple of solutions.

click

Guitar dude23

There is a dealer based in Alberta I think called Eden. They sell fender style necks and knock off bodies for really cheap. I've never bought anything from them so i can't say much about the value, but if you are on a tight budget, they sell necks for about $30 last time I checked. They don't have a nut in them but you could probably put one in yourself. Again, I don't know much about the quality but its an option.

If you're talking about the ebay Eden, that stuff comes from Hong Kong. The strat (small 's') bodies and necks they sell have a squared tele (small 't') style heel and don't match standard Fender stuff. I've heard that some of the other details are off as well, not to mention steep shipping charges and instances of freight damage. It's ok it you don't mind that sort of thing, but I'd think most people do.

I confess that I haven't read this whole topic, but something just jumped out at me. If a string-through-body setup were that important to the "holy grail," a Telecaster would be the gold standard for "sustain."

In my humble opinion, the search for sustain is a stinky dead fish that someone forgot to bury back in the 70s.

Now, back to you.

Bad, Jimi, bad!