G_urr_A

Don't worry Hotrock, I'm 15 too, and my first guitar is playable, but not much more.... Though that'll be better after some fixing.

Nice explorer man! Keep us posted.

(My next project will be an explorer body from scratch and a strat-to-explorer neck conversion....)

That'd be cool Derek! Must look kinda intersting.

http://www.holm.nu/

Wood supplier in Sweden which I think deals with "regular people" too.

(Just trying to contribute)

You'd probably have to do something about the neck pocket anyways, yes. If the neck pocket is standard depth, you'll have the strings running quite near the aluminium, and there might not be room for the pickups and stuff underneath them, so I think you'll be better off having the neck pocket shallower than usuall.

Since I think the original question has been answered, and this is related to the orig. q, I'll ask here instead of in a new thread.

Ebony is said to be a hard wood (not hardwood but *hard* wood), right? Could it be used for a full neck? If so, has anyone seen such a thing? Or is it just too pricy?

I just thought that I would point out that the weird way of writing "look here" in the title of this topic is not allowed by the forum rules. Nit-picking, I know, but I thought I'd tell you so you don't get into trouble without knowing why. But I'm not reporting anyone or complaining or anything just pointing it out.

(I voted too.)

After thinking and being busy with other stuff for a while, I just had a little more time to think about this. The guitar has a Floyd, 2 HBs, and a bolt on neck, and the "walls" between the cavities or no more than 2-3cm (1").

So I'm thinking I'd be better of just cutting away the whole cavity area, so I practically will have a deep tenon (going all the way from top to back) that is bolted to the neck. Would that cause any stability/strength problems?

One thing to keep in mind if you decide to use guitarmaestro's method is that the sanding stick or whatever you use must be kept parallel to the neck at all times, or you can end up with really not-nicely shaped fingerboards.

I think the maple gives a more day-ish lightning impression, which I like, but it depends a lot on the owner's type of music, IMO.

Yeah, since I will most certainly put some veneer over this body anyways (the birch wasn't the cleanest in the world. knots and stuff. free though...) it won't matter with the looks. So, I'll go ahead and do this. (Some day)

I started making a guitar about 9 months ago in school, and then I continued at home, working a little bit every now and then. The guitar is now in playable condition. However, as I didn't know anything about making guitars when I started, and since I got the wood for free through school, I didn't make any templates for the routing that was done. So it was all routered free hand, and it looks that way too. It's only the neck pocket that is really ugly, but everything else could really use some working on too.

So, what I'm wondering is what you think about the idea of routing the messed up routs bigger and with square corners, glueing in a piece of the same wood originally used (birch) and rerouting the cavity. How would it affect strength and tone of the guitar?

Sorry for being as stupid as I must seem, but I don't get it (I'll blame that on me being from Sweden (i.e. linguistic problems, not true stupidity)). I figure it's got something to do with "jack off", but I don't really get it, so an explanation would be nice.

I like the design. I usually don't like designs like this one, but it's so well-done it looks lovely in my eyes. And it'd be kinda fun to play this thing on stage (considering what type of music I play). Getting up on stage and playing "the evil riff" in reign in blood by slayer, that'd be mean.

I painted knobs and pickguard on a cheap strat clone I own a while ago. I don't remember what kind of paint it was, I just found myself a can of black spraypaint and tried it. It worked, but it scrapes of pretty easily. That might be helped if you prepare it a bit though. But I can't remember what type of paint it was.

I wired my guitar yesterday, according to this diagram. However, I'm experiencing horrible amounts of hum.

The hum increases a bit in volume when I touch anything that's connected to ground (strings, bridge, etc.). The hum can be reduced by turning the tone pot to reduce the higher frequencies, and when I turn down the volume (any of the 2 pots), the hum gets a lot bassier below a certain point.

How would I go about checking the wiring? What should I look for?

God jul och gott nytt år!

(I know I'm late)

asking opinions on pickups is asking for more confusion. Just take a look at any pickup in harmony central's database. For just about every one, someone will says it is horrible and someone else will say it is the very best. Very frustrating. I think the only way to know is by trying them out.

Very true, if the ppl asked are into different musical styles.

I bought a pair of EMGs about 6-8 months ago, through eBay. I had no way easy way to get to play with such pups, but I asked for opinions on a metal/guitar-oriented board, and asked only those who had experience with the pups to reply. I got a few answers, saying that the pups were great. I bought them, and, well, they were great.

So I figure a good thing when talking about sound and stuff is stating what music your into, what sound you want, what you think of famous ppls sound, and so on, to give ppl an idea of your frame of reference.

If there is so little wood around the screw that a ferrule will stick out outside the heel, I'd say you MUST have a ferrule, because the pressure from the angled sides of the screw will break the thin piece of wood.

About the organization...

If this is going to work, I think you'll need a forum section devoted to it. To discuss ideas, to make decisions and such.

Yeah, I'd have been willing to help, if it wasn't for me living in Sweden. Shipping would cost a fortune. But I think it's a cool idea.

I think it's a really cool guitar, but there are a few reasons I wouldn't buy it.

1. It's got no inlays on the front of the neck. Makes it ugly difficult to play IMO.

2. The dragon would be looking upwards if I held the guitar the way I want to.

3. Guitars with that shape don't hang the way I want them to.

4. It's got a 22 fret neck.

5. I would avoid playing it too much because I know I'm a bit clumsy, so I'd damage the finnish pretty soon.

6. The price. Gimme that guitar with the stuff above fixed and a price tag at $1500 and I'd buy it (if I had the money), but the way it is now, NO WAY.

I do like the inlay and color though.

the typical 15 year old "I know it all and you can't tell me different" syndrome.

Please!!! Don't judge us all by one individual's behaviour.

Yep, placing the speedloader nut behind the default nut on the neck should enable you to do this. Just make sure you place it where it's supposed to be.

if you don't have money, you can't buy the material needed. if you don't have the material, you can't build a guitar, no matter how good you are. if you don't have a guitar, you can't sell it. if you can't sell it, you're not making any money from it.

Though you can of course ask for material costs when some one decides to to buy, and then get the profit and work time part of the payment when the guitar is delivered.

yes...but it's PURPLE!!!!!