Shim to set the action right, assuming the bridge is where you want it - at least 1/8@ of protruding saddle, and at least that amount (preferably more) embedded in the bridge - and then shave the neck/heel until it sits properly. At least, I'm assuming you have a mortise/tenon bolt on joint and not some weird Fender-style bolt on in an acoustic setup, in which case shimming would be a good option.
For future reference, draw out the side profile. I've yet to see an acoustic guitar without some sort of neck angle. They've pretty much all got some back set. I usually final-adjust/set the neck angle when the bridge is glued on, and set the straightedge to hit the top of the bridge when its resting on the fretboard (fretted).
I am trying to save a vintage (or "wierd" ) accoustic fender malibu w/bolt on neck. It's going well I think. I did shim the neck some but might need more. My action is a bit high still. The saddle seems low already. should I shim the neck more (bigger shim)?
How much is too much neck angle? I used a hard wood tapered shim(seemed more solid than a pick). Also, the saddle is loose, it falls out. Is this normal? What ideas do you have about fixing screw holes in the top that the prior owner drilled to secure the pickguard? Can I make a new guard? Please explain. Thanks
Shimming Acoustic Bolt-on Neck
in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
Posted
I am trying to save a vintage (or "wierd" ) accoustic fender malibu w/bolt on neck. It's going well I think. I did shim the neck some but might need more. My action is a bit high still. The saddle seems low already. should I shim the neck more (bigger shim)?
How much is too much neck angle? I used a hard wood tapered shim(seemed more solid than a pick). Also, the saddle is loose, it falls out. Is this normal? What ideas do you have about fixing screw holes in the top that the prior owner drilled to secure the pickguard? Can I make a new guard? Please explain. Thanks