jnewman

Wipe on, wait fifteen minutes, wipe off, wait. Repeat .

I did this five or six times and came up with this:

That's walnut and maple finished with General Finishes' Nordic Oil, which is basically the same thing as Danish Oil. The grain doesn't have white stuff in it, that's just the flash reflecting off of the curved surfaces within the grain - it's not grainfilled.

EDIT: I should've said repeat once initial finish is no longer wet, just "tacky." This basically means once a day for three or four days and then every other day for a couple of applications.

Man, I'm going to need another great IRW neck blank one of these days... what am I going to do?!?!? Anyway, I really like the wood I bought from you, and I hope you do get some more work done on your projects .

Many, many hollowbodies being made these days are made with an ebony tailpiece that's sort of like the "trapeze" style tailpieces.

MAN I love the Pre-December GOTM trashtalking. This should be a new tradition .

C'mon, guys, didn't you read the page? It has an " "Old" overcoat ". Heh.

I'm going to have to agree with Hunter on this one.

They usually need some angle. The setscrews are there to let you slightly adjust that angle.

In that picture (if you're talking about the front plate, and not the sides which are figured wood like Rich said), it looks like it's just absorbed more dye in the places where the arch is the sharpest and in the direction of the grain - i.e. where there's the most end grain (end grain absorbs MUCH more dye and gets a lot darker).

It feels nice, but it gets really ugly really fast - have a look at the cover of "Layla and Assorted Other Love Songs" by Derek and the Dominoes. That's Eric Clapton's strat on the cover, that he played so much he wore all the finish off and filled up with hand oils.

You can oil it with any kind of oil finish, but then it's not raw anymore .

To everyone who's said router so far - in his original post he said "large machine," and with the things included, I think he just means floor tools as opposed to hand tools. In that context, I'd probably have to say a nice bandsaw (you can do most drill press things with a press stand for a hand drill, although it doesn't work quite as well.)

Well, the ones on the right side of the headstock will be "upside down," so the tuner knobs on the right will be lower than the ones on the left... other than that there's no problem.

Man, that looks great! How do you like the rosewood neck? How does it feel and sound? I'm about to get started on a rosewood necked guitar myself, and I'd be interested to hear your thoughts (aside from how hard and how much of a PITA it is to work with )

Anyway, I'm impressed!

The bottom line is... no matter what you do with the strings past the nut, the string will be at a constant tension at a certain pitch - or it wouldn't be at that pitch. All you'll change past the nut is how much downforce you'll get on the nut itself, and with a tilt-back headstock there'll be plenty of downforce no matter what you do (and you're not going to make there be too much by placing shorter posts anywhere).

Bartolini pots their pickups (which do not have adjustible pole-pieces or holes in the covers) with black epoxy. You could throw them off a building without hurting anything.

Unless there's something SERIOUSLY WRONG with your other equipment (amplifier or wall outlet), there'll never be enough juice in your guitar for you to even feel it, no matter what you do with it.

And if there IS something wrong enough with your other equipment for your guitar to hurt you, it'll get you through the strings no matter where you stuck the controls .

Well, silver does have about 8% less resistivity than copper... I'm not sure how much different it sounds, though, as I've never actually cared enough to make silver cables . I don't believe that junk about different jacks though - it's not possible that it'd have more of an effect than the crappy carbon pots we all use . No audiophile would be caught dead with those ANYWHERE in the signal path, even the ones who haven't coughed up for silver cables or fancy jacks.

Pr3Va1L - flatwounds are great! 11's are about the smallest you can ever find 'em... normal is 13-14. They're really normally used on jazz archtop sorts of guitars, but I put some on my HSS strat . (D'Addario Chromes, like I mentioned earlier Chromes).

EDIT: Heh... D'Addario has 10-13's... but they call the 13's "medium."

I like the design a lot, but I should add that it looks to me like it has more "weight" on the bass side - like the line you have as the centerline of the neck isn't really the center of the body.

Looks great! I like it a lot....

Go buy a ruler.

3/8" is about as thick as you can go and that's only for non-recessed TOM bridges. The 3/16" one is for recessed TOMs/normal flattop bridges. The .082" one is just the thin chrome ones that are that thin because they're metal and some people like thin ones.

That's excelllent, slayer! And I know what you mean about the Corolla - the other guys in the band gave me much "soccer-mom" grief about my old beater minivan - until the first gig when I tweaked our entire PA system and two half stacks into it! 

Tolex is available from AES, VibroWorld, US Speaker, Penn Fabrication, Stew-Mac, Reason: Amps, and probably dozens of other places I'm not familiar with. It's not cheap, and it's not easy to install, but it sure looks good if you do it right!

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Lovekraft, you're my hero. I've been looking for I don't know how long to find a place that sells butterfly latches. Penn-Elcom is the first place I've ever been able to find 'em. Maybe I'm just incompetent .

How does the bare wood look when wet vs. dry? Why would the stained wood be any different?

Once you put clear on it, it'll look "wet" again - that's why people wet or naphtha their fancy figured woods to see how it'll look with clear.

Here's just my guess.

The traditional singlecoils are both entirely through the pickguard (no metal over the tops), and have magnetic pole pieces, so the "important" part of the magnetic field mostly comes out of the top of the pole pieces, and the responding field from the strings goes straight through the coil without anything blocking it.

The P-90 is covered over the top except for the pole pieces, which in a P-90 are just steel slugs - they have a bar magnet under the pup like a humbucker. So you're blocking some of the magnetic field from the magnet by having the metal over some of the magnet (even though the pole pieces aren't covered), and you're blocking some of the magnetic field from the strings, which can't reach the interior of the coil because a good portion of the coil is covered by the metal pickguard.

I'd bet if you actually uncovered the P-90 (so that it's installed like the single coils) it'd work fine, or that if you just drilled pole piece holes for the single coils instead of through-mounting them as you did with the P-90 you'd have pretty much the same problem.

I like my Ernie Ball regular slinky 10's. Although recently I did get a pair of D'Addario Chromes flatwound 11 jazz strings... I do love flatwounds too.

I don't think I've ever even heard of SIT strings... and if you can move the wind, you need to take 'em back to the music store and get your money back .

It's possible that Dewalt gives you the best quality for the money, but in terms of best quality period I'd have to go with Bosch, I think (or maybe Porter Cable, depending on type of tool). For "hand" tools anyway - floor tools are a different matter.