jnewman

I've never played a walnut bass, but the walnut strat I built last year sounds great - it has clean high, clear, loud mids, and THUNDEROUS lows . It doesn't sound like it really cuts highs, it just has HUGE lows.

That bit that you linked appears to already be a tube circuit with no transistors - why would you need to modify it? Maybe I don't understand what you're asking...

Normally minibuckers go in normal singlecoil routes. A P90 is considerably larger than a normal single coil - maybe 75% the size of a humbucker, as opposed to 50% for a single coil.

If you're not going to be working lengths more than 3 feet, I'd be tempted to say a 4 or 4 1/2 (which is what I bought in more or less the same situation you're in). If you're trying to plane edges on boards more than three feet long, though, the extra length of a 5 or 6 will really help.

That's not going to be a problem here, we're talking a minor adjustment here --I only need to drop it by about the width of the top part of the studs (the part that normall rests above the surface --I'm sure there's a technical word for that!)

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That would be the "flange" .

They sound about like you'd expect a $50 battery powered amp to sound . Heh. I suppose it's better than nothing. I'd really like to try a Pignose, I hear they're many, many times better.

Personally I run a Bosch model 1617EVSPK (both for professional and personal use).  Haven't had any complaints yet.

Nate Robinson

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That's topping my Christmas list this year... I've heard it's a hell of a tool. I have a Bosch 1590 jigsaw and it's without a doubt the best jigsaw I've ever used. Interestingly enough, when I looked up the number on the Bosch site - Bosch says they invented the jigsaw in 1947.

I think that looks PERFECT for an SG .

Would I regret owning a Lie-Nielsen? Not for a moment. They are undoubtedly the best new planes money can buy. Are they better than a fine old refurbished Stanley from the early 1900's? Not necessarily, no.

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Heh... I wouldn't be so sure about them being the best new planes money can buy - you can spend $1000 or more on a new plane .

I have a L-N No. 4 that I bought about six months ago and I couldn't be happier with it. People also really like Clifton planes, which are just about the same price as Lie-Nielsen.

I just love birdseye maple fingerboards .

The general rule is that you want one pin all the way at the bridge end of the guitar and the other as close (on the axis of the neck) to the 12th fret as possible (physically on the top horn). I'm pretty sure that actually is in Hiscock's book.

You can do a perfect roundover by hand - if you have the right kind of plane .

If you just want a neck... why not just buy a neck?

Also, Crybaby wah pedals. How on earth do you get that Hendrix sound out of these strange black boxes? I got one when i splashed out on the amp, and I really don't seem to be able to get it right.

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Years and years of practice . They're pretty hard to get the hang of - a good place to start is just to pump your foot forward (and then bring it back) with each note you pick (like you're tapping your foot in rythym with your picking). Once you get the hang of it, that gives you the "wah" on each note. Hendrix does that sometimes, but a lot of his stuff is a LOT harder.

You have to learn how far to take your foot each way to get the right sound and how to time both going forward and going back to get the sound right, and when you stretch it over multiple notes it gets really hard.

Its kind of my first real project (not from school, where i've been told EVERYTHING and i got other people doing the same, so we can debug ourselves) and i miss the very basic knoladge.

first, i got the IC of my distrotion-to-be effect and i can't really figure if the dot points the first leg, or the last one. how do i actually count them? i used the dot as "1" and the other reverse clockwise from there. is it correct?

another thing, i got the input and output jacks and i don't really know what goes to each leg of it. i'll add a picture and please tell me what goes where

another thing, is that i don't really know where to put the minus wire from the battery to ~_~ tried to put it to the collective minus, where everything goes when the schematics told me to put them to the "ground", is it good?

and i got some capasitors which i don't really know if they are good for this circuit (it uses a 9V battery), because when i went to buy something i didn't had, they gave me a different type. i'll add their picture near the jack. (they are yellow)

Thanks, and sorry for all the silly questions ^^;;

and here is a link to the circuit, if it matters:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/driftingfuzzbal...ampdistplus.pdf (the lower one)

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On the jack, signal is the long contact (the "tip" of the plug) and the ground is the the other part that connects to the area just behind the mounting threads (the "sleeve" of the plug).

Looking at the schematic, it does indeed look like the battery (-) should be connected to the general ground.

I can't really tell you anything about the caps without more info, but so long as they're the right capacitance (in Farads, or microfarads (uF) or picofarads (pF)) and at an equal or higher voltage rating, they're fine.

It has a very nice lustre, as well.

Wonderful!

How many lustrums does it take to dry thoroughly tho?

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Heh, according to the article, 70 minutes broken up over two hours at medium or medium low in the microwave before turning, and 8 hours in the oven at 150 after turning.

I'll leave the conversion to lustrums as an excercise for the student .

I the latest issue of American Woodturner there's an article about turning a 10" salad bowl from a wet log in 24 hours - he microwaved it for an hour or two to dry it then turned it then let it dry in a warm oven.

He settled on avocado as the best wood for it because "when a log of it is cut in half, it does not crack for some time... it has a low density, a fine cell size, turns easily, and has moderate to high shrinkage." I can't tell you anything about it as a tonewood, but it's BEAUTIFUL, at least as far as my taste in woods goes. To me it kind of looks like a warmer maple, but without the dark lines between dark/light grain sections. It has a very nice lustre, as well.

Well, what really matters is the topology of the amp, which you haven't said anything about - that in turn mostly governs what tubes you can use, although there's usually some play there, which lets you change the sound a little bit.

Hey, when I responded all I said was the tone nonsense was BS. Now, a well-sanded oiled neck and a smooth neck joint... that's just comfort .

I can't tell you about butternut, but walnut has incredibly deep, full bass. It's not missing mids or highs, but the lows are so powerful they almost overwhelm the highs (at least in my strat, which actually even has some maple in with the walnut, which should brighten it up a bit).

Well, a lot of hifi audio equipment is in metal cases that're grounded to the audio input's ground (the ground that actually goes through the audio cables) NOT THE POWER SUPPLY GROUND. Just for what it's worth.

If you want one SLIGHTLY cheaper, but still worth using, check out CMT bits: http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtround.htm

But yeah. Buy good bits. This is ESPECIALLY EXTREMELY true for long large-diameter bits (like a great big roundover bit) - you can squeak by with not-great bits on short narrow ones, but big ones, forget it.

General concensus (especially among people who've actually studied science ) is that the direct coupling thing is BS voodoo. If you really want to do it, all it really means is screwing the pickups directly into (and up against) the wood. No springs or space between the tabs and the wood.

Removing the heel is basically just changing the design of the guitar - plenty of guitars have an access joint. The highly sanded oiled finish neck is also something other people do on guitars - it's just a feel some people like, but it's not something factories generally do.

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...886237_16886+28

I've heard of people say they use 7/8" or 1" roundover bits for this. At about $80-90 they're pretty spendy .

It should take any good woodworking glue just fine - I've got a good bit of it right now and it's not the least bit oily, just very, very strong and stiff. (Unbelievable ringing tap tone).