dayvo

Eric you've got my vote

The Bass looks fantastic

Hey guys

I'm after some advice on which pups to use on my first build (a copy Les Paul)

Body & Neck: Mahogany

Cap: Lacewood

Fingeboard: Ebony

I'm leaning towards the SD SH-5 Custom(bridge) & Pearly Gates(neck) or the old faithful JB & Jazz combo

What do you think?

I'm wiring it up to Jimmy Pages setup and trying to acheive a diverse sound/s as possible

I'm into Heavy Rock, Metal & Blues

dayvo

Hey all

I'm looking for parts for the Les Paul I'm building and I was just wondering if anyone has bought stuff from Guitar Parts Resources who live outside the USA.

I'm wanting to know if any problems where had with the $5.95 shipping, and their reliability and backup.

I'm sure they're upfront, but this is just for my peace of mind

dayvo

Does anyone have the Les paul Turbo cad file? please send me it i really need it thanks 

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I have a couple of .pdf files when printed out will give you a full size body and headstock of a 59 Les Paul. If you're interested let me know

dayvo

Thanks guys for your info

I opted for the epoxy cause its easy to get here in Oz

When its dried and I've radiused it, I'll post a picture

dayvo

Thin CA is what you want.  And you can use ebony dust to even things out. 

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Thanks mate

I thought I needed the heavier bodied stuff

Now to find larger amounts of it

Here in Oz I've only seen it in 3ml tubes (which are usually only half full anyway), so I'll have to buy a quite a few to do the job

dayvo

CA is superglue if thats any help.

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Cheers for that mate, but you guys are able to buy it in various thicknesses (is there such a word?) or viscosity

I can go anywhere here and get superglue, but only the real runny (thin) stuff

dayvo

Hey guys

A few questions re:Inlays

I'm building my first guitar (copy Les Paul) and am currently routing/chiseling out the inlay cavities (Trapezoid shape) on an ebony board

The inlays are Paua from MOP Supplies in Melbourne

What I want to know is how flat do the cavity bottoms have to be as I'm having to do this freehand

If I dont get them dead flat can I use glue and ebony dust to even things out underneath the inlays?

Speaking of glues, what can I use?, will Titebond do the trick?

Looking through the posts just about everyone mentions CA

Before joining this forum I had never heard of CA glue and I haven't been able to source any here in Oz, yet

Any info would be greatly appreciated

dayvo

OK The most likely cause of this effect is that you are holding the spraycan too far away from the spraying surface.

Give it another lite sand and remove the chalky appearance, clean up, then try wetting it up a bit more by holding it closer to the spraying surface, but dont be too heavy handed or you will get runs and/or sags.

Between coats allow plenty of time for the laquer to tack off ((touch dry) - gently use the back of your fingers to check for this, no unsitely fingerprints )

Practice on a bit of scrap first

dayvo

I clear coated the front of a headstock with laquer. The top, sides and edges are like chalky white. Probably a little over spray residue. I tried using naptha on it and it made more white. Then I wet sanded with water and it took some of the white of but doesn't seem to take it all off. Will Blush Erasure remedy this dilema?

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Need more info

Does the clearcoat have a cloudy appearance within it or does it have a sandpapery feel and some rubs off when touched?

A little more info needed on how the topcoat was applied, by spraycan or gun

If by gun what air pressure and thinning ratio?

I'm not familiar with the products you mentioned but heres a bit of advice anyway

If you live in an area of high humidity, or you painted on a day of extreme high humidity, it could cause a cloudy effect in your finish (moisture trapped within the paint)

To relieve this try either heating up the spray area (room) PRIOR to painting or buy some retarder thinners to add to your paint mix prior to coating

If its the sandpaper effect try lowering your air pressure and and adjusting your fan width (slightly narrower) and recheck the solvent to clearcoat mix ratio (maybe add a little more solvent, but watch for runs and sags)

If done by spraycan warm up spraying area and experiment with your technique a little more

Get back to me if you have anything to add

dayvo

Hi I'm trying to understand how pickups work. So far i can understand there is a magnet, steel strings some winding wire and a magnetic filed and a pull on the steel strings and humbuckers have less hum and noise due to the presence of two single coils which cancel each other out? I Don't understand.

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I'm still learning myself

Check out the link to a guy that explains quite a lot about pickups

Electric Guitar Pickups

dayvo

Great looking guitar, mate

Are the frets gold or is it the lighting in the pictures?

I agree with eclipse666 as in it would be a possible GOTM contender

dayvo

Im buying next week and considering one of these two, anybody got one of them?

or which  would you get ?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...P400&lpage=none

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=45378

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Have you thought of building your own?

Check out this link Cyclone Dust Collector Research

dayvo

Its australian for "i cant believe you foriegners drink this rubbish"

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ditto

can lacewood be finished like a flame maple??  ie... stain dark.... sand back.... and then stain again????

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Sorry mate,

I'm still trying to suss things out myself

You could experiment on a piece of scrap to see if you can get what your looking for, but bear in mind that lacewood and maple in their natural states dont look the same, colour or texture wise.

dayvo

Dont use your brothers gun.

If he has been using it to spray primer onto cars, you will never get it clean enough to spray clear finishes without blobs of primer/paint coming out just when you don't want them to.

This has happened to me when spraying cars.

Buy a new gun and use it solely for clear coats and if your going to spray solid colours buy a separate gun for that also. Otherwise same problem will occur as above.

dayvo

Thanks for the info, guys

I really want a bright colour on this guitar so it looks like I'll have to find the right bleaching materials here in Oz

Regards

dayvo

They are all fantastic, but my vote goes to mattia

A very fine looking guitar, mate

I need some help!

I am building my first guitar, a copy of a Les Paul. Body and neck Brazilian Mahogany, capping is Lacewood.

I want to stain the Lacewood and possibly the Mahogany with some water based Analine Dyes which I purchased from LMII. I have seen Lacewood stained bright green and also bright blue on some manufacturers sites (US Masters Guitar Works being one) and I wondered if anyone out there could explain to me how this is done.

I have been experimenting with scrap pieces of Lacewood and the color comes out much darker. I appreciate that Lacewood is not tremendously light in color to start with, as compared to the likes of North American Maple.

I live in Oz and I was hoping not to have to bleach the Lacewood as I'm not sure if there is anything available here to do it.

I,m a newbie but I used to work for a paint company

You will need to strip all the old Poly off either by sanding or by using non caustic paint stripper. The latter is messier but would be a lot quicker

WARNING- if you use paint stripper be very wary of your glue joints. Put it around but not over the top of them. Scrape off the stripperwith a blunt scraper

Wash down thoroughly with Metholated Spirits as this evaporates quickly and will help draw out any remaining stripper in the pores of the timber

Give the guitar an overall very light sand, dust off, tack rag then your ready to grainfill and topcoat

dayvo

Ok, I'm a NOOB building a guitar and I need to know for sure that les pauls have 3 tones knobs and one volume knob before i go ahead and screw eveything up. So I just need to know if that's right and if not, what is the correct setup.

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