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reamer

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Posts posted by reamer

  1. I am absolutely looking to strike up some more business relations! I do just clears as well! My website has a good amount if info and things offered on it. And if you don't see it - contact me - I can likely get it done. You can just keep this here - I as just answering the one question on what they would go for. Thanks!

    Here's a nice NEON I did last night - pre clear...(And yes, that's a Jem Double neck swirl in the background :) )

    sk.jpg

  2. Given refinishing and custom painting guitars is what I do - I agree with this statement. Even if you were painting your guitar a color - I would put the base on it, few layers of clear, sand it, and then do custom art. This way if you screw the art up - it can be removed easily without messing with the base color.

    I'd give completely different advice to above.

    I'd grain fill, then sanding seal, then spray your first session of final clear on the guitar. I'd then rub that back flat, apply the gfx in paint then spray the last layers of clear coat to finish before a cut and polish.

  3. I THINK this is an RG570 - but I can't remember.

    Basswood body

    AANJ

    Custom Painted

    House of Kolor SG108 - So-Blue with a white sparkle added

    Just finished buffing tonight...

    PM me for more pictures. If I can't sell it here, you know where it's going.

    Asking $300 + shipping

    More to come soon in Tangello, LNG, SKP, DY, and RFR...bring back some bright colors kids!

    rgblue.jpg

    rgblue2.jpg

  4. I would think that if it's a guitar you would be clearing it right? So the catalyst doesn't matter for a swirl. Would it? Only if your design involved some striping, and you were doing it on top of the clear.

    Otherwise yeah, HOK striping needs to be cleared. Where as One Shot - you need to make sure your first coat of clear is a light mist coat, not a heavy one. As is the case for all clearing...with 2 part automotive anyway...

  5. I am not familiar with Nitro, but I use 2 part automotive clears. Since I need to cut/buff them anyway - lint, dust, bugs, etc. really don't mean a thing. They are just on the surface, and when I start the cutting process with my 1000 grit paper - it removes it all. If Nitro needs cutting and buffing as well - I wouldn't think you don't need to worry about it - unless they are deep in there. In which case - sounds like you need a different room to paint in. Or get a good vent system going that sucks everything out of the room while you are painting.

  6. But I am going to use it... I switch pickups whenever I go between distorted and clean channels. I almost never use both at the same time, as it makes pinch harmonics difficult to hear.

    You don't need a pickguard to be able to switch pickups. Everything would just be routed on the backside, and the slot for your switch, and holes for your knobs. Then if you decide you want a pickguard, you put it on. Now if you do this, then you will have your screw holes in the body, and most likely not go back to one without a guard, but it at least give you the option in the beginning. If you front route it - you have no choice - you need a guard!

    Maybe I am not understanding your comment?

  7. Well - it's been a LONG time since I touched the router - 4 years to be exact! Been doing the painting thing...so I took an old body I had laying around, and some old templates I had - and gave it a go.

    I think it came out pretty good. 2 spots I need to put some wood filler in, other than that - cutting it was smooth, and rounding the edge went well also! It's not perfect, but for one of my guitars it will do. And first attempt.

    For paint - the plan is to either do a holoflash (The real holoflash, no offense to the tutorial here, but that's not how it's actually done) or a Nagel print from the 80's like what CC had on one of his guitars...I am up in the air. Let me know what you think.

    monkeyfront.jpg

    monkeyback.jpg

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