alwz

This was posted over on the OLF and just thought I would share - great examples of what a good guitar top should sound like when you tap it (before bracing).

NPR clip from TJ Thompson

Then - the whole idea behind brace shaving is to get as close as you can back to that nice ring.

Thanks. I had always wanted to hear what tap tone sounded like.

Thanks for the kind replies.

Alwz

The bridge has to keep the saddle in place without cracking(this is a problem that is seen often). The bridge also has to be tuff, because a typical pinned bridge has strings wedged by pins to hold them in place. There is no reason to make the bridge heavier than it needs to be, but woods that meet the needs are generally fairly heavy. Hard Maple is also used for bridges, and it works fine. Cracking at tne front of the saddle area aside, a bridge needs little additional strength to resist deformation. Actually you can look at the soundboard it is setting on to visualize the required strength. It is also a goal to try to make as smooth a transition as possible in terms of strength to the soundboard. If you have a rigid element against a supple element(the soundboard) you focus stress on that point. You can't avoid it completely, but it is best to control and limit it as much as is possible. Weight as Russ mentioned will have a notable effect on performance. Typical guitar bridges range from around 15grams*Ultra Light to 40grams*hefty. Ebony will most likely place you around 35 grams +/-5, EIR will more likely place you at 25 grams +/-5. There is nothing wrong with trying different woods, just be sure they have tuffness to handle the demands.

Peace,Rich

Rich,

I'd like to know your opinion on rosewood vs ebony bridge. Since rosewood is lighter and still tough, isn't it more suitable than ebony? But ebony seems to be standard on hand built guitars. I've been thinking of building my first kit guitar (OM size). What would you recommend? Thanks.

Alwz