Jump to content

drbassman

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by drbassman

  1. I was just wondering if it is bad or if it is harmfull in any way to tune a baritone guitar to standard tuning.  I am looking on assembling and/or buying a baritone and customizing it.  but i dont want to be held down to only playing in a low tuning.

    thanks!

    The 30" scale baris, the vintage Fender VI, any old Dano 30" bari, the new Gretsch, all are typically tuned e to e. I suppose you could do so on the 28" ones as well since the new Fender Jaguar Bari is 28.5" scale and tuned e to e.

    That help?

  2. I can't believe I didn't think of compression fretting. Probably because I've never used it. I'm not sure how much warp you have, but it could be the solution. There might be a thread over at Dan's section on the LP forum about it. If not, the Guitar Player Repair Guide has a pretty thorough section on it.

    Well, see there.....it only took a couple minutes and you guys hit me with something I didn't know. So how does compression fretting work???

  3. Sounds like cutting off a leg to fix a broken toe to me unless I'm missing something. I would personally just refret. You can back your rod way off, relevel your board, refret and be in good shape. I'm assuming if you're confident enough to replace a fretboard I don't need to go into detail on all the steps involved.

    A Mustang bass neck only has a 1/8" thick fretboard, so there's insufficent rosewood to relevel the board and refret, it's gotta come off the face of the neck or not at all. The truss rod doesn't work either, so I'm curious to dismantle it and see what's going on in there.

    If it weren't a vintage neck that I liked in the first place (and have a use for), I wouldn't bother. As for being confident, I am, in spite of my ignorance! I've built and repaired basses for my own use for 3 years, so I'm willing to tackle this project since the only costs are the materials and my time. Thanks for the mention of help. If I get stuck I won't hesitate to ask! :D

  4. Now regarding your situation, why are you going to take off the fretboard to correct a warped neck? I dont see why that would be needed or how it would help. Have you tried adjusting the truss rod? Unless it's broken (t-rod) or somthing I dont see why the fretboard is being removed.

    Ithe neck had a really big warp (too much relief). The truss rod is maxed out, can't be tightened any further, even with the neck in a vise to take pressure off of it. The neck was heated and put in a vise, which took about 60% of the bow out. It still has a warp and further heat won't help it. Mostly the heel is flipped upwards a bit, not an uncommon problem with bolt on necks.

    So, I'm going to remove the fretboard, check out the truss rod and replace, unless I find a fixable issue with the current rod. Essentially, I'm going to lightly plane the face of the neck at the top 2-3 frets and the bottom 4-5 frets. Once I get it flat/levl, I'll install the new board. I was wanting a maple board anyway, so this is a good excuse to do this (besides the warp).

    Not any other options with this neck, really!

  5. Hey Mike, the actual fretboard on my Fender neck is 21" long, so a rod of 18" or so would probably be best. I'll know more once I yank the old fretboard off.

    Fender rods typically run from the bottom edge of the heel (where the adjustment screw is, ugh!!!!) to about 1-2" below the nut. A 24" rod would definitely be too long. I also might be able to rehab the old rod once I get my hands on it. A lot to consider as I tackle this one!

  6. I have a 30" scale bass neck with a moderate warp in the middle, too much relief. The two ends of the neck essentially flip up a mm or two, with the heel slightly higher. The truss rod is as tight as I can get it, so it's no help. Heat treatment improved it slightly, but it's still there. I like the neck and I'm going to rehab it.

    I'm planning on a new rod and converting from rosewood to maple for the fretboard. I've noted that gluing on a new fretboard will often cause a bit of reverse-relief upon drying due to moisture in the glue. That being the typical (but not every) case, should I be cautious to not over correct for the current warp before installing the new board? My plan is to plane the top and bottom sections of the neck face down a bit once the board is off.

    Any suggestions from you "warped neck" experts?

×
×
  • Create New...