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hendrix2430

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Everything posted by hendrix2430

  1. I don't think this is what you want, this stuff has wax in it, and it's supposed to be used after a sealer (fond dur). Hendrix, have you Read This? Seems to me it's exactly the info you're looking for. Just use the color you want instead of blue. Interesting about the luthier link...think I might do my wood shopping there next time. ← Hi, yes it's a great place. Do you live near Besancon? I'm sure they could ship the wood to you. The owner was actually packing a stash of wood when I came in the shop. I will get "fond dur" at Castorama tomorrow, but I'm still in the dark as to what to use for the final transaprent finish. I want a shiny look, a glossy look. What the french product I could use? what's "clear gloss" in french? Do it dry quickly? I also saw some tinted lacquer that I could use between the sealer and the clear gloss. Is that too much stuff perhaps?
  2. hi guys, this is what I need as a sealer: http://www.castorama.fr/boutique/sku/sku.j...ctId=CastoV0030 It's transparent...no tint to it. I found some lacquers also that have "teck" tint, that I could apply before the final finish... By the way, what is teck oil used for?
  3. Oh I just found what you meant I think: it's called Matine Gomme Laque. http://www.castorama.fr/boutique/sku/sku.j...tId=CastoPV1055 if you don't read french, it's basically a alcohol based lacquer, which also filles pores... Would that be compatible with paint and spraying polyurethane? So this would be used on bare wood before everything right?
  4. No problem Phil. Thanks so much for the info. I've read all the turotials, but the pics don't work for me, for some reason... By 1- Poly, I meant using a thin layer of lacquer as a sealer before the dye, or color coats. I went to the hardware shop yersterday and saw a rubbing lacquer for woods, which was poly based. It was actually recommended by the sales person I talked to. I has a slight amber tinit to it too, but is NOT a dye. That would work as a "sealer" right?
  5. doc, thanks fore the help. I realize that many newbies come around the forum asking for the same questions over and over again. It can be enervating i'm sure. Thanks for the reply and i'll go check it out. PS: Do read my thread about alder finish, to see if I'm thinking right...
  6. Thanks Phil, I got a one piece blank from a wood shop here in France (near switzerland). It's a luthier wood which is really high quality. Check the website: http://www.bois-lutherie.com The blank cost me 43 euros and the neck blank (flame maple) 13.7 euros. I was expecting a low grade flame, but when I went to pick it up, it's basically a AAAAA piece, very impressive wood. Their 1st class was unreal. Anyhow, the piece I got is already pretty tan, so I'm expecting good results, even if it's no mahogany tan. It has some nice streaks in it, close to swamp ash in the back. Thus, I'm worried the grain might be too open, perhaps? Anyway, if I were to solid color the body I would have to follow these steps, correct: 1- thin poly layer on bare wood 2- layers of solid color paint with light sanding in between 3- layers of poly with light sandin in between, expect the last one Phil, does this sound right to you?
  7. Thanks so much guys, I decided to get a result like this, only not as milky, just dye, not actually paint. I want to wipe on a very thin coat of poly. Then I plan to apply a few coats of dye for the desired shade, sanding slightly between them. To finish off, I want to spray some a few coats of poly, and then perhaps polish the whole body at the end. Am I thinking right? If I wanted to spray a solid color, should I follow this process, only to replace the dye by the paint? Thanks you SO MUCH!
  8. Hi I've been told that dyes don't really work well on Alder, and that I should instead spray a clear sealer and then a translucent color.
  9. Hello, I would just need the basic dimensions of a tele, from the "butt" center of the guitar to the top of the neck pocket. -I'd also need the exact dimensions between the hips of the guitar, and the width of the neck pocket. -Finally, I would need the width of the guitar's butt, at the widest points on each side, and the dimensions of these to the bottom of the guitar, straight down/ vertically. I think I can figure out the basic shape after that. If someone could do that for me, I'd be extremely greateful! Thanks again!
  10. Hello, I just got a one piece alder board that has a nice grain, which I plan to make a tele body out of. I would also like to finish it transparent, maybe adding a bit of dye. Having never finished a body before, I would like some advice from those who have. I'm looking to keep the look of the grain, but make the body darker looking, similar to a blonde walnut tint. I would also prefer to only use some oil and a clear coat over, that's it. Here's what I'm wondering: -Since I would like for the grain to show, I shouldn't use any grain filler, correct? ***As I understand, alder can absorb a good amount of finish. -How many coats of oil should I apply to get that darker look? -Should I mix the oil with a darker dye? -How long should I wait inbetween coats? -Should I sand the body between coats? ***To make the finish look smooth and shiny (not overly shiny), what type of finish should I use at the end? -How many coats? -Should I rub in between coats? Thanks a lot for the support!
  11. Hello, does anyone know where to find a printable Telecaster template on the net? Or if you have one on your computer, would you mind sending me the file? Thanks a bunch! My email is: khh82@wanadoo.fr
  12. Yeah, well, don't let the word 'dur' fool you, although isn't that part of the purpose of a sanding sealer? I keep reading about people haveing to sand and sand the sealer coat to get it smooth. Anyway, here's another link talking about a fond dur they also tell you how to make your own (just add talc and stir!) ← Sanding paper, "feuilles abrasives" in french. Or even "bloc abrasif".
  13. Hi, the title says it all! I'm in the process of starting a telecaster from Scratch using a 1 piece alder body and a 2 piece Flame maple neck. I really don't know much about building at all, but decided to go for it and try. I will be sawing the body with a jig saw, then sanding the edges by hand. Once I route the guitar body (front rout) and thoroughly sand it, could someone please tell me how they would go about paiting a solid color on it, and what type of paint I should use. I live in France, so brands that you are familiar with may very well not be available over here. Here's what I was planning on doing. Go easy on me if I didn't get this right at all! 1- Sand body. 2- Apply grain filler by hand, multiple coats. How many? How long in between? 3- Once dry, sand the body lightly once again. 4- Apply solid color 1st Coat on entire body. Let dry for how long? Same thing for 2 coats. Is this enough for a solid color, say Candy Apple? 5- Once dry, sand the body lightly again. 6 Spray some lacquer, 1st Coat on entire body. Let dry. Do a second and third coat. Enough coats? How long for the lacquer to dry? That's what I could think of... Is there something I could use besides spraying lacquer to add that shiny look to a body? Also, I'm a little worried about starting because I know I'll make mistakes. But I HOPE to make a decent guitar in the end. Do you guys think it's possible to make a professional looking guitar, even with no prior "building from scratch" experience, if built with a lot of attention? Thanks again for everything, I appreciate your help greatly!
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