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rocksolid

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Posts posted by rocksolid

  1. i'm not sure which bigsby you should use but one thing i can tell you is that you're going to have two big holes in that flame top after its done, i saw a lp that had that done to it so the guy filled the holes and repainted the whole guitar, except thats not much of an option with that flamed top

  2. making it like an acoustic guitar by bending the sides is possible but the daggar has some sharp points on it, so you would have to make some mitred joints on the bent sides

    the two easier methods are like this,

    take a regular body blank, thickness it so it has room for a added top AND bottom, cut out the outline of your body with it, and take sections out where you want the body to be hollow, just leave a center channel in it for pickups and bridge etc

    http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a55/rocksolid1015/body.bmp

    the other way which is pretty easy also, is you have a body blank and thickness it so it can have a added top, then just route out hollow cavities in it

  3. in dan erlwine's book, "Fret Work Step by Step" he has a really stiff neck with up bow like that but the truss rod isnt enough to put it in proper relief

    this is what he does to fix it, he has something like a two by four about the length of the fretboard, with two cauls on the ends of the board, which leave plenty of clearance between the rest of the two by four and the fretboard, then in the center of the neck he clamps up the weird two by four and the the bottom of the neck so the neck can be adjusted at the truss rod easier, forcing it into relief basically

    hope this may be of some help and understandable the way i put it

  4. actually setch has an extremely good point, you could just adujst the radius of your bridge, and a brand new ibanez fretboard is fretted quite well, if you're unexperienced your chances of achieving a fretjob better then the one you have infront of you are pretty slim, with the neck you have, and a shimmed to radius bridge, you'll have a presicion setup and i think that's what you're after

  5. Your welcome i'm glad i could be of help

    yes the string method will work but you have to be very careful to keep the marker at the exact edge of the string etc, and sheet metal will work too you just have to be careful not to cut yourself!

    but yes some proffesionals do use the straight levellers this is just the brainless presice way to do it, it is useful thats why there are those stewmac aluminum beams, though it was a good point Setch, the straight leveller method just requires more experience for good results, begginers tend to sand the line of the strings rather then do a straight radius, and altogether take off more of the frets then is desirable, and a brand new Jem isnt something i'd want to risk ruining.

  6. Wells first of all, 0.93 inches does infact make a difference when it comes to fretwork, but not the difference you might think, you'll just have frets that are thinner on the sides.

    Secondly, if you are interested in investing money on that tool and it will be usefull for you in the future believe me, get theAdjustable/Arching Radiusing plane from LMI

    To set it up, you will have to

    -get a compass, (not the kind that points north)

    -set the compass to the radius of your fretboard

    -on a piece of card or stiff paper, draw the circle that has the radius of your fretboard.

    -cut out the circle in a manner (you wouldnt have to but you could use the cutout for a understring gauge when shimming the floyd rose) so that you can use the cutout as a radius gauge!

    -set up the plane and go :D

    in my opinion thats the only presice way to achieve what you are doing, that radius gauge is very helpful for getting those weird radiused fretboards found on many guitars these days

  7. www.autobodysupply.net has 3m gold sheet rolls in the following grits

    -500

    -400

    -320

    -240

    -220

    -180

    -150

    -120

    -100

    -80

    my question is, which grits of this abrasive would you recommend to the average hobby-time builder, even though they are good sandpaper they're a bit expensive to buy them all, but in comparison to other dealers they are cheap, autobodysupply.net sells them for 34.85 a roll

  8. Thanks! This is a good start as i really needed a relatively simple loop pedal to start with, chances are the boomerang would be a lot more complicated however 4 minutes of loop time sounds really nice

    It anyone else has any information please post.

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