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Bugsy0032

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Posts posted by Bugsy0032

  1. I can't help but think you inadvertently changed gauge on the string you replaced. That or you have a sticky trem-pivot (I HATE when that happens).

    Fact is, you're right on about the change in string gauge! I believe the Ibanez GRX45 came with 9's (don't quote me on that though...could've been 10's?).

    I put D'Addario EXL110 strings on it. (extra set that came with my Carvin Bolt) Im not totally sure of the size without looking it up, but I think those are 11's ??? I did order some ErnieBall slinkys, that Im waiting on. I'll probably toss those on instead...maybe?) My JTurser Walnut SG still needs new strings too. lol

    Rob

  2. I found a great tutorial on the web -- but now can't find it.

    Anyway, google is your friend:

    Uncle Tim shows your how to string your guitar.

    eHow also shows how to.

    With a trem -- its a bit harder.

    No one I know uses ALL the string (wrapped up on the peg) -- except B.B. King does, I think.

    I just measure a few inches past the peg, clip it with a wire cutter, then string it up.

    I use something like Uncle Tim shows (around, under, then tighten).

    -- joe

    edit: adding Elixir how-to string link

    Ok, I'll first say "Im still a beginner!!"  Im sure re-stringing gets better with practice. I've been told that you use the entire string and not clip it, I've been told to just get enough string and clip the rest! Ok, so what's the BEST way??  I broke the 1st string on my Ibanez GRX45, so I restrung it, and of course, the bridge (trem) came way up. I would suspect because of too much string. Would that be the possible cause?

    I checked those links out. Uncletims was the BEST!! Perfect!! It makes alot of sense to me now about judging the needed length of the strings to wrap around the posts. I sincerely appreciate everyones help and input. (: Now I don't feel so much like a "BEGINNER!" lol

  3. Bugsy, you can get ALL kinds of free or demo software but if you want to put your ideas "in motion" ie: make tool path programs and such, you will need file conversion software that converts your shape into CNC tool instructions. You can't really do this until you know what CNC file format the tool you will be using requires. CAD is fairly easy. CAM is a little more involved. Try BobCad. It at least introduces you to file conversion.

    Hmmmm? Bobcad sounds interesting. I've never heard of it. I'll check into that. I have been pondering the idea of "DesignCAD 3D Studio Max v14", which I did find some examples and tutorials on. I did see some of the freebies on freecad.com, which I downloaded, just haven't installed yet. Fact is, I didn't even think about the CNC part of it!!! Definately food for thought.

    thanks

    Rob

  4. bugsy, what is your previous cad experience?

    Actually none at all!! lol Although, I'm willing to learn! I use various graphic programs (photoshop, coreldraw, etc.), so learning curves Im used to. Im really wanting to not only design the new body and headstock, I want to see it in 3d as well. Making the look a little more solid, and modify where needed.

    Rob

  5. Jeremy, thanks for the great post. I was in the process of writing a thread on this myself. I was curious as to the costs asssosciated with copywriting, and any steps a small time builder can do prior to building that will help protect your designs. I assume not showing anyone is one key step. How close do they have to be to be considered ripoffs? Does it have to be blatant? Or just a resemblance and youre screwed? Thanks for the thread

    Although not a guitar, I personally have an invention which is currently being reviewed by a mnfg. company. My invention, of course, was researched to insure no infringements. My patent has been filed (prior to going to mnfg co.). My total cost for all the research and development (including a prototype) was about $9600!

    My understanding is that if your idea has a "25%" variation of another, then you can legally design it.

    Robert

  6. Yeah, try stringing up a guitar with a Bigsby...you get things flopping out all over the place.

    I've switched to locking tuners and put them on all of my guitars now. It just makes stringing up so much easier, it's worth the extra price. Plus you get better tuning stability.

    That sounds SCARY!! LOL

    I haven't changed the strings on my Carvin Bolt yet, and it does have the locking sperzels on it. Maybe I should put locking tuners on all my guitars too!!! Then, I wouldn't have had the need to ask how to string a guitar!! (:

  7. It's really difficult re-stringing a guitar with the same set of strings.  They're already 'coiled up' from where they used to be wound around the post.  I like the above advice, but at some point in time you'll need to learn to do it yourself.  So, when you're being 'taught', here are a few things to watch out for as he's doing it.

    (he may not have the foresight to show you every little detail)

    1.  Turn the empty post before trying to put the string in, so that the string will enter it at a comfortable angle.

    2.  The tuners are turned counter-clockwise (when you're looking directly at them from the side) to tighten them.

    3.  Only practice will allow you to determine how much 'slack' to leave on your strings in order to give yourself 2 full wraps around the post.  It's easier to 'correct' yourself if you've given yourself too much slack then too little, though.  If you have to release more slack, you introduce an ugly and weak 'kink' into the string.

    4.  Regarding the clipping of strings:  don't clip them at first.  Wind them and THEN clip them to size, bending a little "loop" into the end of them so that you don't have a sharp point sticking out.

    5.  Those little buggers will want to un-coil right over the top of the post unless you use some tricky control methods.  It's hard to describe what I personally do, but it's basically that I keep a finger down on the string about an inch away from the tuning post, so that there's a bit of "pull" from the post to my finger, meaning that you're not generating a buch of slack coily things that want to unwind.

    6.  Some people make sure there's a full wrap above AND below the hole in the post.  I've traditionally just made sure that I have even, non-overlapping wraps below the hole.

    I'm sure there's more, but I gotta run.  All I can say is that it takes practice.  Nobody's going to do a great job of it first time out, but you have to be willing to take that risk... allow yourself to think, "Bah, it's only strings" and have at it!!

    Greg

    EXCELLENT advice! (: The string un-coiling over the top of the post happened to me on a few of the strings, frustrating as it was, I did try next the over and then under the hole, and the un-coil happened just once. I can see now, where you said placing your finger about 1 inch from the post, giving it that tension, while holding the strings slack to give a "controlled wrap" around the post works the best. In fact, when my acoustic got new strings put on by the shop I mentioned, I believe he did the same thing. He was working fast (he had the head of the winder attached to a drill....low speed....fast work of the attachment of the string!). I believe the "mystery" has been solved. Thanks for the help!

  8. Ok, I'll first say "Im still a beginner!!"  Im sure re-stringing gets better with practice. I've been told that you use the entire string and not clip it, I've been told to just get enough string and clip the rest! Ok, so what's the BEST way??  I broke the 1st string on my Ibanez GRX45, so I restrung it, and of course, the bridge (trem) came way up. I would suspect because of too much string. Would that be the possible cause?

    Huh? Tell you what, is there a music store near you? Bring the guitar in, ask them for a new set of strings and ask them to show you how to put them on properly. Bet you they'll be really nice about it too.

    I appreciate the reply. I believe I will take it to the shop and have him re-string it, "showing me the PROPER way of doing it." I'll provide the strings though, since he's a bit HIGH priced on his strings. I will however, pull the strings off and try again, using minimal about of string on the post. As they say, "learn by doing" right!! Who knows, maybe I'll get it right, and be able to avoid going to the shop!! (: Save some $$$

  9. Ok, I'll first say "Im still a beginner!!" Im sure re-stringing gets better with practice. I've been told that you use the entire string and not clip it, I've been told to just get enough string and clip the rest! Ok, so what's the BEST way?? I broke the 1st string on my Ibanez GRX45, so I restrung it, and of course, the bridge (trem) came way up. I would suspect because of too much string. Would that be the possible cause?

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