aggravated_alien

Tone Pros Locking Hardware Taken From EC-1000.

http://www.oztion.com.au/buy/auction.aspx?itemid=5658433

I had to turn the truss rod two complete revolutions counterclockwise straighten it.

It's no wonder the guitar sounded a muffled.

Swirl remover should remove your swirls :-D

That and a good polishing! Good to see you're out of the shtick on this one.

Welcome to the board, by the way!

Thanks.

Problem solved there was a lot of glue on there I am satified with the result the are heavy swirl marks but that ok as you can't see them in normal lighting.

Thanks for you help.

Is that a new picture? It looks the same. Its too tough to see whats going on. If you have a fairly update camera you might have a macro option this will let you take up close pictures much more easily, just fyi. What happened anyways, trying to glue the nut on and spilt some CA. I hope you didn't get any CA on the truss rod threads, might make things miserable for you. Anyhow, best of luck.

It's quite a long story be here goes.

The used to be paper thin rosewood veneer over the nut slot that went all the way across after removing the nut by collapsing it in on itself it took some of that rosewood veneer with it leaving a mahogany void underneath.

"No problem" I said I will just lay a bead of super glue across and level that before gluing the new nut. after Masking the around the nut slot I applied the super glue unfortunately seeped through on to the headstock area.

I tried first a bit of saliva on my finger but it did nothing. Next I tried nail polish remover no luck there. Next I tried using my exacto blade to scrap the glue off it worked but left the area a bit dull. After that I used Micromesh papers to bring it to were it is now. I think the superglue is gone but I have created a dull patch in the process it looks like a satin finish in that area.

I have updated the photos again I can't do better than this with such an old camera.

I hope this helps.

I think it's fair to state that a clearer picture in focus would be a good point to start with.

Do that , then you'll get the help you need and more importantly the right method too.

cheers, Stu

Photo Updated

I have just straightened the neck on my ESP EC-1000 Deluxe its was about 2 mm at the 7th fret and the sound changed a little it seems to have more clarity.

It buzzes like crazy now so this will be the perfect opportunity to make a bone nut on it.

2 mm at the 7th fret? You sure you're measuring correctly?

I measured by pressing down the strings a the 1st fret with one hand and pressing down at the 15th fret with the other hand the gap between the top of the 7th fret and the string was about 2 mm.

And if it buzzes like crazy, how does that give it more clarity?

I should have been more specific only the treble strings B and E buzz the rest sound significantly better.

More likely you nudged the strings a bit closer to the pickups, that's all.

Maybe, but It sounds clearer unplugged too.

And a new nut is not going to get rid of the buzz -- only the open string buzz.

I know.

I spilled some superglue on this headstock area and couldn't get it to come off so I sanded with Micro Mesh papers but it dulled the finish a bit.

How can I fix this up I know nothing about finishing.

Thanks.

By the way that white chalky residue in the trussrod cavity is not superglue it's .... I have know idea what it is it has always been there.

I put the guitar on my lap in the playing position and press the string down at the 1st fret with my fretting hand and use my other hand to press down at the 15th fret.

Then I check for any space under the strings then adjust the truss rod accordingly.

Straight edges are on my list of things to buy though.

I have just straightened the neck on my ESP EC-1000 Deluxe its was about 2 mm at the 7th fret and the sound changed a little it seems to have more clarity.

It buzzes like crazy now so this will be the perfect opportunity to make a bone nut on it.

I really like the Faber stuff.

http://cvguitars.com/parts/ABR-59.html

http://cvguitars.com/parts/ToneLock.html

To quote someone's sig line "You don't build guitars to save money, you save money so you can build guitars"

Haha Very True.

Here is one of the most versatile tools I have in my shop and affordable.

Rigid OSS

Gil

The link is dead.

How much money have you spent on tools so far and long did it take for you to make your money back if you have.

I want to know what I am getting into.

hm i have always done my nuts with files and a radius block that matched the fingerboard radius. Belt sander kinda seems like overkill but maybe someone else can chime in. What exactly do you mean by how much power you will need?

I was referring to the wattage of the belt sander. is 300 watt enough or should I go for something a bit more powerful say 1000 watt.

How long does it take you to with your radius blocks and files.

TV Jones TV Classic.

I know this topic has come up before this is more of a rant than anything else. They claim this machine can do better work than an experienced Luthier.

I can't argue that this machine can do and better job faster but what about the Luthier that takes his time and takes pride in his work. They claim that this is better but no one ever explains why it is better.

If this machine can do a better job should we be worried.

Feel free to tear into the machine tell everyone about its pitfalls if there are any.

what tools do you currently own? If you dont own any.. then a belt sander and a jigsaw are not top of the list items in my opinion. are you planning on electrics or acoustics to start off with? from scratch or kits? What kind of budget are you on? what kind of hand tools do you have and what are you pretty good at as far as woodworking goes? SOrry to answer a question with a bunch of questions... but its not a simple answer without more info.

At This point I just want to be able to make nut and saddles.

I have bought Dan Erlewine's Nut Making DVD it taught my quite a bit. he used a belt sander to shape the nut to it's correct radius with excellent Results.

I the moment I just want to buy a belt sander with the belt surface on top like Dan had in the DVD. I will worry about other power tools later but it doesn't hurt to know how much power I would be needing just in case a bargain pops up.

Here are the tools I have so far.

-------------------------------------

Claw Hammer

Super Glue

Titebond Wood Glue

String Winder

Jim Dunlop Ultimate Lemon Oil

Jim Dunlop String Conditioner

Jim Dunlop Polish & Cleaner

Jim Dunlop Cleaner & Prep

Jim Dunlop Deep Conditioner

Jim Dunlop Cream of Carnauba

8 Piece Nut File Set

10 Piece Needle File Set

3/16 Nut Seating File

Nut and Saddle Shaping Files

4 Piece Micro Chisel Set

String Lifter

Nut and Saddle Vise

3M Gold Fre-Cut Sandpaper Set

3M Flexible Polishing Papers I love these the work like a charm.

Luthier's Digital Caliper

String Spacing Rule

Feeler Gauge Set

Understring Radius Gauges

Hello this my first post.

I am in the process of buying tools. Eventually I want to build and repair guitars professionally. This is going take my quite a while to learn and I guess this will be more of a labor of love. I don't think there is a great deal of money in this type of work.

I am in the market for a power tools the question is how much power/wattage do I need. I don't want them to be underpowered but I don't want to spend a fortune on overkill.

Things I need so far.

Belt Sander

Jigsaw

Drill Press

Feel free to tell me what other things I may need and how much power/wattage they will need to be.

Thanks.