ranman106
-
Posts
73 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
News and Information
Tutorials
Product Reviews
Supplier Listings
Articles
Guitar Of The Month
Links and Resources
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Posts posted by ranman106
-
-
OK!!!! I stand corrected. I searched for a while today, and did happen to find some info on some 24.75" scale Warlocks. It appears some of the NJ series warlocks were that scale. So, I apologize for assuming you were wrong.
Can you link me to that info? I can't find it anywhere!!!
-
Nice. Favors the Ibanez Iceman. I love the shape of the Iceman!
-
After my many questions about the scale of the neck and setup for 22 or 24 frets, here is what I was able to determine with the help of several people.
nut to 12th fret = 12 3/8
nut to 24th fret = @< 18 5/8
Scale IS 24.75
Well, the measuring looks wrong on the second part. From the nut to the 24th fret, your measurement of 18 5/8", matches neither of those scale lengths. For a 24.75" scale length neck, It would be about 18.562"( 18 5/8 is 18.615) from the nut to the 24th and for the 25.5" scale, It would be 19 1/8" exactly to the 24th fret.
Sorry for the confusion. The measurement from the nut to the 24th fret is between 18 4/8 and 18 5/8. The closest ruler I could find only went to the 8ths. I'll find the proper one tomorrow. But, it is no way near 19 1/8".
-
I think you're not measuring from the nut correctly or something. But by using the distance from the 12th fret to the 24th suggests that your neck is 25" scale.
Just use this info:
nut to 12th fret = 12 3/8
nut to 24th fret = @< 18 5/8
Then find the difference between the two points:
18 5/8 - 12 3/8 = 6 1/4
Since the distance from the 12th fret and the 24th is a quarter of the total scale length, multiply by 4:
6 1/4 * 4 = 25
There you go. Be sure to measure the distance from the 12th fret to the 24th to confirm this though.
Distance between the 12th and 24th fret should be 6 1/4"?
But everything I have read and been told is double the length of the measurement from the nut to the 12th fret. I do have another Warlock Bronze Series that is 25.5 scale and when I line the 2 necks up at the nut for comparison, there is a difference in the fret spacing and length. The neck I am using for this project is shorter in length and the frets are closer together.
-
Hmmm. Are you sure you measured right? BC rich has NEVER made a 24.75" scale warlock...
I know, thats what has caused me the most grief. But I swear, the nut to the 12th fret measures 12 3/8" and 12 3/8 doubled is 24 6/8. Reducing the fraction gives 24 3/4". Am I correct in doing this to determine the scale length? If I am wrong, please let me know as I am preparing to drill my bridge mounts after finalizing the proper placement including compensation.
I contacted BC Rich and they couldn't provide any info as well. But I have heard that their customer service is lacking. All the information I have says that this is a BC Rich Warlock neck in 24 3/4" scale with 24 frets. It must be rare because I can't find another one like it anywhere.
-
After my many questions about the scale of the neck and setup for 22 or 24 frets, here is what I was able to determine with the help of several people.
nut to 12th fret = 12 3/8
nut to 24th fret = @< 18 5/8
Scale IS 24.75
-
Rectangle pieces are much easier to cut. But the wood I am using is a little too thin so I added a smaller piece of basswood.
That made the replacement wood stand a tad bit too high.
Shaved a little off the top and now I have a much better fit.
Now to find my clamps and wood glue.
-
Ok, did a little more work today. I decided to try and make a template so I could fill in the bridge pickup cavity. I taped a piece of paper over the bridge pickup cavity and embossed it with a pencil like we used to do to coins in school. Anybody remember that?
Next, I taped the sketched paper on the replacement wood and pressure transfered the pattern.
You know, multiple curves are not easy to cut on a bandsaw. So when that fails, break out the dremel.
-
How do you feel about softening the corners on the headstock to mimic the curves of the SG a little better??????
Thinking about that too.
-
I suggest you call it the "earwig".
Oooo good name. Wait, let me think........Nah, I'll pass. Thanks anyway!
-
Ok. I think I have reached a decision on how to proceed. I am going to fill in the bridge pickup cavity and reroute the bridge pickup cavity @3/4" - 1" closer to the neck pickup.
Any thoughts on this? What wood should I use? Glue?
-
Thanks for the input. I have reached a decision. I am going to leave the neck as is, fill in the bridge pickup cavity, and reroute the bridge pickup cavity @3/4" - 1" closer to the neck pickup. That should leave ample room for the bridge.
Any thoughts on that?
Concerning the earlier post about my 1st build being an assembly, when you build a house, don't you just assemble pieces? So why do you say "building" a house?
-
But, can wood be added to the 22 fret neck headstock to change the shape...?
Yes, in fact thats the way they make a lot of headstocks. However adding to something already made can be very ticky depending on a few things. What shape is the 22 fret neck's headstock?
Gibson style. Here it is:
-
The solution seems easy to me. Mount the 22 fret neck.
Considering this as well. But, can wood be added to the 22 fret neck headstock to change the shape to somewhat match or resemble the "wings and horns" of the BC Rich neck? How would you attach them, glue and dowels? What about strength and stability?
-
The problem you've got is you're trying to put a 24 fret neck on a body designed for 22 frets. The 3 options which are open as have been said are:
1) route the neck pock deeper into the body.
Problem here is with the body there will be very little possibility of using the higher frets.
2) Cut the neck at the 23 fret.
Personally this is the route I'd take - I'd be very surprised if the truss rod came all the way to the 23 fret.
3) Fill the bridge pick up and reroute it
Well really you'd need to fill both and re-route both since the neck pickup placing isn't in it's ideally location. This options is only open it you are going with a solid colour.
Color will be solid. Option 2 and 3 are a toss up right now. Not sure which way to go.
-
I say why route anything? or even cut anything? His "first build" which looks like a just an assembly not actually a build and he's allready buggered it up a bit. I think at this stage getting out the power tools might lose some limbs. hahaha'
Ok, assembly then. Where have I buggered it up? As you stated all I'm doing is putting pieces together. But actually, I have rebuilt Corvettes, Grand Ams, Thunderbirds, etc so I just might be able to handle a few power tools.
Considering the body is allready finished & buffed Id remove the fret at the 23 fret and cut there, saving the piece you cut off to trace as a template. Draw a center line on the back of the neck before you cut, then sand that puppy to fit the pocket. Also Id take like a 3/32 drill bit and drill the 23rd fret slot in the center of the neck to see if the truss rod is there.The body came like that but will be repainted using the Mirage paint system. I had thought about drilling to see where the truss rod is but what is the purpose of the "template"?
-
Here are some pics of the body and neck:
-
Working on my first build and have encountered a problem. I'm not sure how to proceed so I am here to ask the experts.
Here's the info:
24 fret, 24.75 scale neck
22 fret , 24.75 scale body with routed dual humbuckers
Problem:
When I mount the 24 fret neck into the body, the bridge will be placed against the bridge pickup ring. When I mount a 22 fret neck into the body, the bridge is in the proper place.
Possible solution:
Can I shorten the 24 fret neck by @.75" and change it into a 22 fret? Will that modification affect tuning and intonation?
Both the 22 fret and 24 fret neck measure 12 3/8" from the nut to the middle of the 12th fret so the bridge should be mounted 12 3/8" from the middle of the 12th fret correct? It appears to me that the extra length of of the 24 fret neck is moving the location of the bridge.
Thanks!
-
What, does the pickup rout interfere with your bridge placement?
Yep, bridge sits next to the bridge pickup mounting ring. No room for intonation and will make bridge pickup useless.
-
Ran into a problem. The body is not set up for a 24 fret neck. It looks like I need to take @3/4" off of the heel and end the fret board above the 23 fret.
Anybody convert a 24 to 22 fret neck? Can it be done? How far does the truss rod extend into the heel?
-
Thanks guys!!!
Hoping to find time this weekend to do more.
-
-
It depends on the bridge though, check http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator for your bridge placement once you get the scale length.
If the neck pocket is angled, you'll want to use a bridge that sits up off the body like a Tune-O-Matic or similar, and make sure you check the specs against your guitar(string spread, saddle radius). If it isn't angled, you'll want a flat-mount bridge.
Neck pocket is flat. Bridge will be a Nashville style roller.
-
Gonna refinish it. The body is clear sealed but I plan on using this paint system:
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/mirage.html
Haven't decided on the color yet. Will NOT be Ice or green/silver!
Got the idea from here:
1st Build: Sg
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Thank you very much!!!