Mitch

To anyone who can see the crow shape in the corvus that looks a bit dirty. You may wanna remove that bottom horn.

I can see the crow!

I dont understand whats bad about corvus's I know they are an odd design and I would never make one (exept for the build off but i dont have a chance of finishing by the closing date). Help! someone explain!

Thanks guys! i didn't see them there. I assumed they would be in the tools section. I'll get one with my next order.

are they?? what section are they under?

Does anyone know where i can buy brass fret press inserts? I looked on stew mac but i dont think they sell the inserts seperate to the arbor holder thing which i dont want to buy. If stew mac do sell them individually then can you please paste a link. I only want 1 12" radius bit.

I live in the uk.

My first guitar has a 1 peice cherry body and maple neck and that has a really warm sound to it. This has probably made me think cherry is similar to mahogany but it would appear not.

What is the most strange tool you have ever used for guitar building? I thought of asking this question while I was using a rubiks cube as a sanding block.

No...cherry is very similar to maple in stiffness and grain,but works a bit easier...similar to soft maple...but the tone is very,very bright...more so than maple.

I built a cherry neck once...hurt my ears.

I wonder how the cherry and sycamore neck on my current guitar is gonna turn out then. It's only my second guitar and im getting the finish on at the moment. Stop worrying me!

It's possible that you can't sand it before buffing because it sets of the repair reaction. I don't know about this it's just a guess.

Interesting idea, but there has to be a catch.

i always like just using a rasp...that and some time

however i like to do things the hard way

it builds...uh...character..right?

I use a rasp as well for most of it. It has to be one of my favorite tools, but not for top carving. I have to find a better way of top carving.

According to wikipedia brazilian cherry isn't acctually cherry. What I would be using would be european wild cherry. I thought they might be similar as the cherry i'm using is of similar hardness as mahogany (little bit harder than mahogany i would say). Somewhere imbetween mahogany and maple?

I've seen it done before ( http://www.instructables.com/id/SK11XWIF68BAFRF/ ) and i dont see why it shouldn't work as long as you don't rout the full depth in one pass

Is it fair to say that cherry and mahogany are similar in the way of tone and stiffness?

Would there be any problems planing up my own acoustic guitar wood? I would do the splitting thing to minimise grain run out. It's just i can get hold of enough wood to make an acoustic guitar for £5-£10 easily. I was thinking western red cedar for the top and cherry for the back and sides.

Is a strat a double cutaway? the top horn joins the fingerboard at the same fret as a single cutaway but it's usually reffered to as a double cut i think and the top horn is shaped like a double cutaway. I don't think it's really important but it's been on my mind quite a bit.

I installed frets before the fingerboard was on the neck but i wouldn't level them before the board is on the neck as the frets force the slots apart slightly and bow the board little.

I wouldn't recomend them for making guitars. They can't be used to joint edges like a jointer or hand plane and if you try planing anything wider than the blade then it leaves these little 1mm steps.

The only thing i did use it for with success was rough carving some of the top but there is better tools for that.

They are also very vicious on the end grain.

A builder tool really, better used for taking large amounts of wood off softwood floor joists (on houses).

I would definatly go for a benchtop jointer instead.

I would stay away from spraypaints if at all possible.

Here's a pickgaurd painted with acrylic urethane.

It's the same stuff they use to paint the plastic parts (bumpers, skirts, etc..) on cars as well, which are exposed to extreme weather conditions, rocks, etc ...

It works and it lasts.

Woah. Thats a nice guitar.

It kinda reminds me of cruella de-ville off 102 dalmations. I don't mean that in a bad way.

I don't understand how it broke. Did the vibration wobble it off or something?

Okay, I know it sounds like a stupid question but if anyone has a bass guitar what is the overall length of the instrument (from the tip of the head to the end of the body)? And also what is the width at the end of the fingerboard?

Thanks in advance.

60 lengths of mahogany, most big enough to make a neck. Not a bad price.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mahogany-timber_W0QQ...1QQcmdZViewItem

Just thought you guys might be interested.

Yeah, what foil1more said. You are usually better off leaving mistakes like that. Trying to cover mistakes up can often make them worse.

100th post!!! Yeeeeeeaaaaaaah!!!!!

Aww thats crap. but for $50 thats not bad. Where you supporting the neck when you where fretting?

Anyway sounds like an interesting project. Keep us updated.

I don't think we are getting anywhere with this. No one agrees with anyone else because everyone is cutting a different amount of scarf joints.

If someone is only making 1 guitar every year then cutting it with a hand saw and tidying with a plane would be fine(like i did).

If someone is making 20 guitar necks at a time then that way would be a little slow and they would have to find a faster way.

It also (as IPA or death said) depends on your situation with tools.

Anyway that's just my opinion. I'm sure someone elses is different.