Bionic Dave

Hows intonation been so far?

Chris

So far intonation has been good. The orca build should be even better seeing I took my sweet time on that one. Wanted to see if taken my sweet time while cutting made a difference at all.

ok your going to love me for giving you this trick then. You can use a router on the hole channel my way.

1 get a piece of mdf 1/2" to 3/4" thick.

2 trace the headstock onto paper. tape to mdf.

3 leaving 4 or 5" of mdf on the end of the headstock/ where the nut is.

4 Then cut out the headstock shape - the channel depth.

5 now cut the mdf from where the nut is to the end of the extra material is over the finger board. but leave enough for the bearing to travel on.

6 now use double sided tape to hold it down and route away.

7 you will have to stop just at the nut if its an angled headstock and finish with a chisel.

Hope this helps.

Why not put a miter guide on the sled if you wanted to cut slots on an angle? Glue sandpaper to the edge so that it would not move when you cut, or use hold-downs.

~David

This is how I do mine, I use my fret slot blade in my table saw Draw out the frets in reverse on the side I'm not using. Then use my miter guide to cut them out.

Works great.

I use THIS and Calipers to transfer to the fretboard. It will calculate multiscales too.

wow I'm not a Tele fan but this ones a winner. Great chose in woods and the finish is A++++++

You build a WICKED Tele.

Yeah the arbor press is still there on the site, but it clearly says discontinued where you add to your cart.

nothing out of this world. will be very close.

if your board is a 12 - 16 compound Radi, the radi doesn't stop changing at the end of the finger board it continues to the bridge in this case most likely a 20" at the bridge thats what you need to make the bridge raduis at.

All the frets are the same height.

Dave

you have to find out what the starting radius at the nut is, and what the over all end radius at the bridge is suppose to be. Thats how the bridge should be set up. and the radius of the bridge should be setup from the strings bottoms.

Dave

Maple as a very general rough rule might be said to promote a bright sound with punchy midrange and warmer airy bass.

Dave

just ordered my second Slantie set form RestorationAD these ones are going to be the diablo specs.

sweet keep up the great winding

Dave

Walnut

heres a update.

Got the body all shaped and the binding installed

Cut the neck and headstock is to rough shape. I added the truss rod access cavity.

Next is to route out the neck pocket and then the bridge and pickup cavities. followed by the controls cavity and bridge back cavity.

Then to glue the fretboard to the neck. will get this done some time this week I hope.

Hers some pics:

I leave 2/16" over my finish size on my plane. that gives me 1/16" a side to work with. I do this because of the tear out caused by the planing process.

I always plane the blank first then shape, like mentioned above.

Thats my way and everyone is a little bit different.

has anyone here every made one of these killer little guitars? I think this will be my next project.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Cigar-harmony-box-guita...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Thanks for the reply's and the help. I did use epoxy and had no problems with it at all it worked great. perfect bond and no gaps either.

I would leave it where it is. no need to do more work then is needed.

Ok so I got a lot done today. I got the neck routed for the Truss Rod and the Carbon Fiber Rods I'm installing.

I also got the Cream binding installed on the body. and got some more top shaping done. all I have left to shape are the horns.

Here's so more progress pics.

The neck with the rods test fitted.

Shaped the binding to fit.

and here it's glueing. I used Epoxy I found it to be much easier to work with , then CA glue.

Theres not enough time in the day.

Yeah but if we had more time the government or our bosses would find a way to take that away too.

You got it. and they would tax us for it too.

looks nice, a shame about the top

What tool are you using to carve the top?

I'm mostly using my cab scrapers. have to be quite when the baby is sleeping. and a belt sander if there is a lot of access material kicking around.

I would fill in the bridge holes and re-drill to scale length to new neck and the paint the body. That being said you have to first see if you will have enough room to do so between the bridge holes that are there now and the pickup cavity. Thats if it needs to move inwards. as I suspect it would. my 2 cents.

ok started the carve and did the binding channel. tomorrow I will finish the carve and possibly install the binding. and I will route the truss rod and carbon fiber rod channels in the neck. Theres not enough time in the day.

Cheers

I'm in the process of shaping the binding to the body. but I was thinking again of using a 5 minute epoxy.

would epoxy be alright to use?

Yes it can, Cyanoacrylate is the proper name for super or crazy glue. Usually referred to around here as CA glue.

Wood glue can not be used for plastic binding. Wood glue forms a chemical bond with the cellulose fibers of the wood. Wood glue has a very poor mechanical bond, as displayed when joints have too large of gaps.

CA is very good for gluing plastic binding. As long as it is ABS binding or another type that will disolve in acetone, you can even use acetone as the glue. Brush a little on the back of the binding and press it on. CA has the benefit of the added adhesive in it, plus the solvents help to bite into the plastic.

Either way, scrape or sand the glue surface of the binding to remove the sheen first. Also slightly dampen the edge of the wood, since the wood will try and wick the moisture of the glue in too fast.

Very Helpful thanks a million. will be binding the guitar tomorrow. Crazy Glue it is.

What's the best glue to use for plastic binding? I've never used binding before.

Will wood Glue work?

Crazy Glue?

or

Fast setting clear Epoxy?

Thanks

It still looks to small to me, but it's your guitar and design.