Asherman

Annoyingly, for a guitar player i have very small hands and this makes using 12 string guitars a bit of... well... a handful (pun, suprisingly not intended) as most 12 strings i've tried have thicker necks than 6 strings.

Can anyone give me some information on 12 string acoustic guitars with thinner necks (£300-£500 price range)

Could anyone give a a quick or long (depending on how much you love helping) review of this... i cant find a decent one anywhere. Also, the neck looks pretty thin on this, but i've not tried out yet (obviously, otherwise i wouldn't need a review) so if ayone can confirm it has a thinner than usual neck, that would be greatly helpful.

Thankyou

(sorry for the similar post to one below, i don't know how to edit topic titles or delete topics / posts)

How do i delete a topic or post?

Also, how do i look back at the posts i've made, i know this can be done on the proboards forums but i can't seem to do it on here

guitars aren't lego (although, that's an interesting idea, lego guitar anyone?)

Oooooo I want to try that, I love lego and Star Wars and guitars so

that would suit me quite well.

There... apparently it fully works if i remember why

Well, how do you know its a candy finish if you cant see the grain? That doesn't really make sense. Unless your just talking of the color NAME. Candy colors are transparent, and that's the only use for them. (besides over flake or something else)

What exactly is your question? If you spray candy right over a a clear sealer, it will show the grain. That's all there is to it. If you spray a color coat or primer, it obviously doesn't show the grain. Pretty self explanatory.

Thats pretty much answered it... i knew that candy spray was a transparent, but i've seen some guitars on here which have used candy spray and didn't show any woodgrain.

I'm not that knowledgeable on paints and finishes so it is pretty much the same thing for all paint finishes? clear sealer underneath for a show of woodgrain and primer to not show the woodgrain.

I imagine this is pretty basic stuff, but i just wanna confirm.

What has to be done to ensure that the grain of the wood does or doesn't show through a coloured finish... i thought it was all about what you used for the colours, however i noticed some guitars finished in candy spray paint that do show the wood grain and some finished in candy spray paint that don't show the wood grain so it can't be the coloured finish.

Is it the used of a primer that does it?

Any help is appreciated

Cheers.

Take any standard wiring diagram that suits your pickups - make two separate ones - then instead of having two output jacks, run the 2 hots to a 3-way LP-style toggle switch (upper neck -> both necks -> bottom neck), and run the output of the switch to a single output jack.

It's no harder than that. If you're going Strat style, you don't even need two 5-way switches, you can just run off both sides of a StewMac super switch (which is what I did), and put the 3-way toggle in the hole where the 2nd tone control goes.

Ahh, kk, the major thing i wanted to know was how to switch off one of the necks when using the other so thats all good. Cheers

I think the guitar is a beauty, love the grey sunburst (or moonburst i think i've heard it be called before). I'll admit though, i'm not keen on the skull knobs u've used, they just look a little cheap in comparison... mabye its the matte finish, chrome ones may look better imo

Also, i think you may like this http://www.creepypewter.com/Item024.html

Does anyone have one... not a specific one, as i could probably adapt it to what i want, but i'm looking for a... well... 'starting place'

So if anyone has one, can you please post it, thanks.

The routed area for a truss rod... is it the same depth the whole lengh? or does it need to curve down?

(does anyone have a sort of cross section picture of a guitar neck... real pic or diagram)

cheers.

Which would you constitute as Pink Floyd?

I know that the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should equal the distance between the bridge and the 12th fret… so if there was a guitar with a 25” scale, it would be 12.5 inches between the nut and 12th, and 12.5 inches between the bridge and 12th… that I understand, but where on the bridge and nut do you measure from… the blue or the yellow line?

How do i create these? it it done with a very very thin piece of dowel?... if so, what size dowel (and thus drill bit) is used (and where could i buy dowel that small?)

If you have a fillet then thats where any glue would be, but if you don't have a fillet then I would just pack it with silicone stuff that is used to seal around baths. Don't go putting it in just yet though, wait for some more experienced guitar maker come along as I might be wrong on this.

What do you mean by fillet? also, would the silicone stuff go all the way down the truss rod, or just as the anchor?

Sorry, these are probably basic questions, but the truss rod is the bit i'm most clueless on

With a single action truss rod, does there need to be any glue involved in attaching it to the neck?

Oops, thats what i meant *changes*

Just a quick question, (i'm trying to learn as much as possible before i attempt to make a guitar)

[url="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d9/J0191.jpg"]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d9/J0191.jpg[/url]

I take it this is the soloist style body, was the guy asking how a 1/4 maple top could be applied ontop and bent downwards over the 'slope' at the bottom of the guitar body for the arm (so the top would remain the same thickness at the way though which wouldn't occur with sanding it)

am i right?


(i know its an old thread and not so much a question but a confirmation, but like i said, i'm 'revising')

The routing was definitely done before the maple top was glued on. I've seen this done a number of times and contemplated building a les paul like that. There is one major disadvantage, with most of the methods used to do this, you can not alter any of the wiring once it has been placed in because it was glued in that way. The best hope you have is to make any modifications through the output jack routing as erikbojerik said. If you are planning on building a guitar I wouldn't recommend this for a beginner build, because everything related to wiring, switches, pots ect. has to be done perfectly the first time.

I wouldn't recommend it at all actually. It'll look nice, but it'll make repairs to the electronics nearly impossible(or, at best, a huge pain in the ass). On a hollowbody it's okay most of time.

I guess it would all depend on the person. I'm okay with back plates. I'm actually working on one now with glued in pickup rings, so I opened up a section in the back, behind the pickups, so they can be removed that way. Otherwise, you would never be able to change or repair the pickups. It would look nicer without that big plate in the back, but I think it's a good trade off.

Surely the routed out section around the pickups would be deeper and wider than the picups themselves... so if you unscrew them, you can just push them down, to the side a bit and slide them out

I still love the Strat look... i think i'd love it even more if every guitar manufacturer and his brother didn't copy the design.

Fender style guitars (strat, tele, etc.) with Fender style bridges do not need a neck angle. Keep reading and studying up on those basics. It helps to REALLY LOOK at other guitars and see the differences in that context while in the planning stage. Some things are not as readily noticeable until you slap a straight edge down.

Thought so, cool

Cheers for that, dw, i've been reading up on stuff for a couple of years, but due to a lucky increase in finance, i may actually be able to make it so i'm really reading everything and going through stuff with a fine tooth comb now.

Won't be starting anything until the summer anyway

http://www.12fret.com/new/Gibson_Les_Paul_...e_Root_Beer.jpg

I'm guessing the guitar body was made with the wood shown on the sides (this was routed) and a layer of tiger stripe wood was steam bent and glued to the top and bottom... am a right?

Also, is there a name for that white edging on the guitar body?

(first time planning to make a guitar, sorry if it seems like a basic thing)

Sorry if i sound stupid, i've only started planning to make my own guitar.

the style of guitar i'm making is a fender style... a guitar with a low bridge, does a guitar with a low bridge really need the neck angled?