Fowl2338

If you're worried, have them make it a "normal" bone/graphite/standard nut and use a Kahler type behind the nut string lock. They work great and let you cut your nut however you like... radius, spacing, etc...

Eh, that is obviously a pliable option.....I've just heard such bad things about kahler nuts. Anyone care to debunk?

I don't think they said opposite things at all, it just seems you aren't reading very carefully. No offense.

I just saw where I misread.

Thanks for the reply, but that doesn't really answer my question. I am just wondering if there would be a definite notice in tone with a mahog/rw in alder compared to maple/rw in alder.

if your board is a 12 - 16 compound Radi, the radi doesn't stop changing at the end of the finger board it continues to the bridge in this case most likely a 20" at the bridge thats what you need to make the bridge raduis at.

All the frets are the same height.

Dave

Wait, so a 10-16 board should have a 10" bridge radius? or a 16"? You and Buter seem to have said opposite things..

Sorry if these questions are retarded

you have to find out what the starting radius at the nut is, and what the over all end radius at the bridge is suppose to be. Thats how the bridge should be set up. and the radius of the bridge should be setup from the strings bottoms.

Dave

10"-16"

But you lost me. As the frets are going to be naturally lower towards the bridge than they are at the nut, I just don't understand how the action can be consistent all the way down the neck.

Evident on one of my guitars. Action on frets 1-10 is awesome, but 11-22 is to high for my liking.

Mahogany neck/RW fretboard vs. Maple neck/RW fretboard in an Alder body.

Would there be much of a difference in tone?

CuurioussGirl

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Just got that

It has something to do with string spacing, right!

Correct. Notice on 80's superstrats (i.e: Kramer Baretta), the hb is slanted to accomodate for this spacing.

Could be a Takamine GX 100. I have only seen one in person and a few pictures and none were in that finish, not that it means much. They get good reviews at harmony central.

Yep. I just checked it out. Has to be one of those. I really like the finish. Neck-thru mahogany/mahogany. Not bad, as most of these seem to be going for less than $250..

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Not to hijack your thread, but is there any sacrifice in sustain/tone with top loading as compared to stringing through the body?

OooOooh. Very nice.

Emg's. Or some SD blackout singles....

I'm getting ready to do this with an alder bodied sqier of mine. I'm gonna fill it in and slap a hard tail on there. Gotoh hardtails are only $45 on stewmac. Or they've got a wraparound like you were mentioning for around $38. And if you really want a top loading bridge and don't wanna spend much, they've got these for $20..

...a few more than that

Welcome Popp

Echt?

Wuesste ich doch nicht.

What guitars (stock) have non-floating (not non-recessed, as I understand most of those are still floating) floyds? Do they still make any?

So...even though the JB is a passive pickup it goes through a preamp...as should the middle pickup for that matter.

pete

So, let's say that the battery is low. So even though the JB is passive, if the batt. is low, it can affect the power/sound of the bridge and mis pup, even thought the sustainer is deactivated?

take it back, messing with it will probably void your warranty, you shouldn't have to fix a guitar you just bought.

have you tapped the pups to see exactly which selections are being made?

Both the Sustainer and the middle pup have a strong pull. The bridge is very weak, almost no pull at all (but there still is SOMEthing)....

So, maybe just a shi**y pup..?

edit: Note that the sustainer and the pup also have some pull (maybe just as strong) when tapped even when they are not selected. (not sure if this is normal--please excuse my ignorance).

the sustaniac is active (powered) and apparently working fine, the pickups are passive (unpowered) and are not....

Precisely.

Anyway...make sure everything is done exactly as described by the manufacturer for your type of guitar installation...there are a lot of wires on those things and is very easy to get things out of wack...

So, what do you suggest I do? I bought it as a floor model (still "new") from a music store. Do you think I should have it sent back up? Or call jackson?

I would do it myself, but I don't the know the first thing about electronics.

I recently purchased Jackson Dk2S - Sustainiac model. It's a H-S-SU configuartion.

When I first got it, I noticed the bridge pup was super weak (Duncan Designed JB). But it wasn't until i started fooling around with it that i noticed a potential (large) problem.

Keep in mind it has a 5 way selector. Sustainac (used as neck pup), middle position, bridge/middle, and bridge position--all with sustainer OFF.

When you activate the sustainer, it automatically activates the bridge pup.

So here's the problem. When the sustainer is ON, it sounds AWESOME. Pinch harmonics really come out, sustains forever, and just sounds super clean/crisp. When it is OFF, however, it is terrible. You cannot hit a pinch harmonic whatsoever--ANYWHERE.

So, I was messing around, just hitting random cords, when I noticed that, with the sustainer OFF, I could tell no difference whatsoever in sound/tone when I switched the selector back and forth. The bridge sounds completely the same as the middle (which btw is lowered very low b/c I hate hitting it with the pick). So what I'm thinking is, the wiring is all a'd up so that when the sustainer is OFF, only the midle pickup is on. Because when it is ON, you can really tell a difference, not just in sustain, but sound/tone as well. I don't think the selector is actually activating the bridge pup when sustainer is deactivated.

Please tell me what you think is possibly wrong here. Because even if the DD JB is shi**y, I should still be able to tell the bridge is selected and not the middle (which is practically flush with the damn body.

Please help

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=130313004947

Is there any real advantage/disadvantage with stringing through the body as opposed to on top of the body, via bridges like the baby grand?

It could be used to tighten up the bass like Michael Stevens:

That looks.......interesting.

What kind of bat inlays are we talking about? Not cheesy Batman-esque style ones I hope

Ha, that's why i asked for a picture/sketch

Mohogany or Alder Wings (can't make up my mind) - Alder

Bat Inlays - picture/sketch?

Emg's or maybe Duncan Blackouts - SD blackouts (so you can give us a review )