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feral_smurf

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Posts posted by feral_smurf

  1. I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out :D

    Gret picture, now what is it?

    Well as its the brand of wood glue i have been using, by the lack of knowledge of it i assume that no one has used it. It is PVA based glue but probably has many other things in it, just called EVO-STICK wood adhesive

  2. You are forgetting that the air trapped between the bag and the body will prevent what you are wanting...I think..

    Also you will need much stronger bags to keep from exploding.

    I will need stronger bags but it think this idea is worth a punt rather than investing in a pump for a one time job. Yeah i might try it out just with one bag and pump it up. Its hard to imagine it applying a force but it theoretically should work.

    Simon

  3. So instead of buying a vacuum pump/fiddling with fridge compressors my idea is to use an pressurised outer bag to create the clamping pressure. If you put the guitar in a sealed bag then put that bag inside another surely you can pressurise the outer bag to a much higher pressure than 15 psi (max possible pressure form a vacuum), creating pressure on the guitar similar to a vacuum press?

    Has anyone done something similar or can someone point out any really obvious flaw i am missing?

    Simon

  4. Color wise, sapele would blend in too much with the walnut.

    Thanks for the advice avengers, much appreciated i think the grain on oak will also complement the walnut.

    Simon

    EDIT: have used some of the shavings generated from routing, made them finer in a *coffee grinder* of all things then tried to fill up the cavity edges ready to attempt a second go at routing. I will see how this goes before attempting a mojor job with a piece of oak.

  5. Well it is now the time for shouting and self loathing, when routing the pickup cavity the template moved causing a ugly, slightly misshapen cavity.

    I am asking for a bit on advice for the fix, the options are as follows

    1. Just use filler (shavings mixed with glue) to clean up the uglier bits and re-rout

    2. Modify a black p-bass pickguard to fit

    3. Inlay a wooden pickguard shape peace with correct template size to cover up original cavity (guitar will be clear finished)

    4. Use a stroke of a project guitar members genius

    This picture show a rough estimation of the pickguard shape:

    DSC05088.jpg

    Any ideas?

  6. I was thinking how this is nowhere near as good as any of the others but i just want to show it off a bit and why not, i think of it as a more of a novelty item rather than a serious contestant.

    WHO YA GONNA CALL!!!

    DSC05072.jpg

    Its basically just a an mdf body gut into shape then with old strat copy parts attached. Nothing fancy

    DSC05073.jpg

    DSC05074.jpg

  7. I'm new to this whole thing aswell, you are not the only one. There is no way that you need all the pots and electrics (although kowing the pickup style will be useful) to start cutting the body to shape, just make sure you know roughly how big they are when planning the shape, so you have the space for them.

    For blowing up the picture it might be an idea to outline a guitar shape than printing off a picture as it might be cheaper. On my projects so far I have just drawn/ printed it out on multiple sheets of paper taped togethor.

    Hope this helps!

    Simon

    Edit: you can get various cad programs for free which might give you a better idea of scale

  8. Darn I just realized that as well! that's pure coincidence, to bad I'm painting the guitar black. I could still make a change of plan as there is only one wormhole in that area. Perhaps I could do the back of the neck and the middle clear as with a neck through.

    Personally i would stain it or something rather than painting it a block colour on the sides, it might look a bit weird to me.

    Simon

  9. Looks like it's coming together.

    I like the F/B where did you get it? I'm not sure what holly is like (it's a light wood isn't it?). I'm thinking light rather than dark binding would be good. But not bright white like plastic.

    The fingerboard is just a stewmac standard 35" scale, preslotted and radiussed. Holly is a nice sort of cream colour.

  10. I really like that headstock shape and the colour. Looking alot my professional than mine.

    Nice idea with the template to use dowels, although might you have trouble making the protrusions flush and follow the contours of the body.

    Nice work with the angled heel, must have been difficult to get that perfect. Just curious are you going to dye the maple or leave it natural?

    Simon

  11. Just though i would post a pic of the stuff i have been doing. It is only a rough mockup but you might be able to get the gist of what this is going to look like.

    DSC05075.jpg

    The list of things still to do includes sanding, routing all the cavities, probably manage to do some of that over the weekend. I am definitely going to be adding binding to the fretboard to bring the whole design together, i was thinking holly but i am open to ideas.

  12. Work is coming along slowly as exams have started fully now. I have cut the neck and shaped it but lots of sanding is still ahead of me.

    Just as an off topic question what do people do with body offcuts?

    Just wondering, as i now have some nice bits of walnut left over and don't really know what to do with them.

  13. from my knowledge steel and stainless steel are both magnetic due to the iron content but they are quite difficult to magnetize unlike iron (as steel is a hard magnetic material). For this reason I would think that it wouldn't have a huge effect in changing the magnetic field of the pickup as the body won't be magnetized. But you will find that the pickups will attract to the body

    As mentioned any sort of thick steel will be quite heavy I would suggest choosing something like aluminium which is lighter, easier to work with and non magnetic.

    Simon

  14. I know i have been living on this forum recently but you are guys are very knowledgeable about almost everything to do with guitar building.

    I was looking at getting a small router table as it is much safer than trying to stop a router from falling off the edge of something but i stumbled across this:

    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...spindle-moulder

    Comparatively it is ludicrously cheap compared to other spindle moulders and i am guessing that is nowhere as good as them but would it be a better purchase than a similarly priced router table?

    Simon

  15. Haven't been going at a particularly fast rate, with exams coming up, but today i've managed to sand and carve out the body shape. I'm actually impressed about how quickly this happened, just using a spokesahve and palm sander.

    Here's the front

    DSC05068.jpg

    And the back

    DSC05070.jpg

    There is a belly carve and an arm carve present but they are no way near as big as a strat.

    I haven't done the inside of the horns as they need to be done with rasps and depend on the size of the neck at the join.

    Simon

  16. Cheers for all the help guys. To be honest I think I need to build the guitar first without worrying to deeply about electronics but I do now have an idea of what I want to do.

    When it comes down to it I will probably try the piezo bridge out passively to see if it works okay. Then get a preamp if it doesn't. It may save myself £50 for something that isn't 100% needed

    Simon

  17. Cheers for the help, my idea is to buy one of these

    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...s_T-Bridge.html

    Considering it claims it is "high output" and comes with the wiring to directly wire it to a jack, i may just get the bridge then wire it up to see if everything works and buy a preamp if it doesn't. I think this may be the best option.

    Just to confirm, i could use a toggle switch like this

    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...e_Switches.html

    to switch between signals on a mono jack. It just seems easier to me if you can switch between acoustic - all - electric quickly and blend them together by altering the volumes than having the whole thing separated as then you can't blend them on a guitar

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