Linny

Remember. FULL pics of the arcade switch wiring hahaha.

Chris

Not sure i will do an arcade switch on this on! All i do is wire it across the jack in parallel as a kill switch!

Thank guys, i aim to be clean!

Carved out the neck, about 90% done, started to test some finish on scrap!

Its been a while since i last posted anything!

Thats enough for just now!!

Have u grounded the tone pot?

I wouldn't say one was better than the other, the AVT is nice and offers lots of adjustability however. I don't believe that locking studs do anything other than stoping the bridge falling off when you change strings. They are high quality components and i would recommend them.

This seems an entirely a subjective question. Personally i prefer no or very little neck angle on guitars, to me it feels better but i couldn't provide any evidence that it does.

This is based on the single cut guitar i built about a year ago.

The outcome, hopefully.

My master template and a copy underneath.

Band sawn out, routed and sanded to shape, roughly 5 hours work in making the templates and getting it to this point.

Nice 2 piece blank.

Still rough carving at this point, this was carved out out with an angle grinder and a ROS.

I added an angle to the whole body, this makes the body about 6mm thinner at the neck end.

Do a test piece. Only way to know for sure.

If you have a table saw then option D is by far the best. Its very easy to make a small crosscut sled for the purpose. I have option B and it works very well but if i did have a table saw i would use that. You would have the option to batch out fingerboards for future builds very easy.

Watch this

I don't see the point in scalloping the last 4 Lee. I have done it and it doesn't make much difference, if you think about it, your finger never comes close to touching the fretboard when the frets are that close together as they are at that end of the board. I just used a couple of rat tail files and a dowel wrapped in sandpaper to finish it off.

My opinions are not Gibson bashing. You might not grasp how much filtering distributors and retailers do to keep the "Brand" looking better than it maybe is. I have worked in a guitar shop and at a distributor and i can tell you. So often you would order something from Gibson and it might take months to arrive only to find its a total dog and really unsellable. Fender on the other had were very different, much better uniformity and almost guaranteed merchantable without checking. They phrase "you got a good one" applies to Gibson more than many other brands. I would not buy one unseen.

Its not just the cheap one that have those faults, its the more expensive models also. The "custom shop" logo didn't in anyway make it a better made guitar.

This is what Gibson are like in General. Often dry horrible fingerboards, bad fret polishing and often sharp binding edge or a noticeable step between the binding and the neck wood.

First class work.

You need to use J-weight paper which is the cloth backed stuff, the paper stuff just rips almost instantly.

Do the smaller radius first and centre the bearing just above the centre line so there is a flat surface for the bearing to ride on for doing the other side, its going to need a lot of sanding anyway.

I can't see any prices anywhere. There seems to be ton of options too.

http://guitar-machine-heads.com/hp411366/Machine-Head-Da-Vinci.htm?ITServ=C7b289888X134e86b72e7X41b3#varianten

2-3mm bow at each end over 300mm would work.

Warmoth isn't totally custom. You are stuck with a standard fender neck heel for example. A must better more custom strat could be had for far less.

Some very impressive work there.