ryeisnotcool2

yeah i read that one before, thanks guys but im not diggin their "rug" on the outside of them, i really want i nice tolexed case with matching tolex to the finish of the guitar, Mcinturf used these for a while, im gonna send him an email and see if he can help me.

email me, i dont want to get into trouble with the forum

just click on my name i think thats how its done?

well run it over a jointer with the bow facing down and only take off a little at a time! check after each pass, and it should work fine for you, ALSO !!!!! DONT PUT ALOT OF PRESURE DOWN ON THE PIECE WHEN JOINTING!!!!!, if you do you will flatten the piece then it will bow right back after the pass.

also if your woried about the strength just add two of stew macs carbon reinforcing rods, 16$ and then you will be set !!

umm......i'll do it! i might be doing a guys 62 sg just waiting to hear from him, you could order one from gibson but there like 600 -700 $ and its not woth it!

Ben im lovin the mahogany tele, now who do i vote for? me or you?

i really dig the perliod binding, and the only good tele is a tele with humbuckers!

RSERA- your freakin crazy!!!!!!!! but heck i'd probably do it if i had a shaper table! im thinkin of haveing my machinist make me a bit the cuts a 12 " radius sort of like that neck bit then i can make fret boards alot faster and more accurate! also i could get deferent radius's made maybe a few of the common ones. but that neck shaping bit looks cool, but i need more guards on the table for me!

yeah i just finished buffing my RS1 model (its a solid body) it has a flamed/spalted maple top, its a little lite on the spalting but its pretty cool looking. just shape it the same as usual but careful with planes and chissels! as they will chip it fairly easy. (but thats usual with any flamed maple) good luck and post pics!

Here is my entry, I have taken new photos so these ones are a little better.

My Webpage

spec: walnut back(hollow1/4" everywhere except neck and straplock areas)

carved moahogany top with f-holes( carve is 1/4" thick)

three layer bindings are black walnut/maple/basswood

mahogany neck with wenge fretboard.

vintage vibe soapba/humbuckersized pickups with wenge trims

gotoh510 bridge

grover tuners

lots of blood sweat and tears oh and money!

coool obviously you did something right one night a few days back!

me and my wife arent ready yet but that is great news!

and kids are good for alot of things, stacking firewood, sweeping the shop, handing you tools, doing the dishes, cleaning the house, feeding the dog, sweeping the shop again, emptying out the shop vac, getting mommy when you cut yourself! etc.......

is it a boy or a girl? boy- lespaul girl- pink paisley srtat!

im retarted! im retarted im retarted im retartedim retarted im retarted im retartedimretarted im retarted

oops i accidentaly did it twice did i mention im retarted?

hey guys im lookin for a builder to make me cases for my guitars that im building, they all are like the one i posted here last week. if anyone could help it would be much appretiated! thanks!

hey guys i need a bunch of cases to fit the guitars im building, they all have the same shape as the hollow body that i built that was posted here last week. i'd like to get hard cases with tolex, but i cant seem to find any builders.

the tom bridge saddles screws should be facing the neck for it to be in correctly.(if that dont work throw it in the trash, its an ibanez)

just kiddin, use it as a smash guitar on stage!

haha calm down you can have the wood! but i still think monkey grips are dumb!

he he he he well... it seems i like that wood to and i think(if i win the bid) i will let it dry for at least 1.5 years then i will resaw it to 11/16 an use it for tops! it would look great with mahogany and a nice ebony binding. may the richest man win! just kidding it is a really nice peice of wood though, i wouldnt put a monkey grip in it though, there for monkeys! make a nice carved top to show the beutty of the wood and definetly clear it! it is a soft wood ive worked with it before!

derek beat me to it!

you could cut most of the wings but then leave an area that is not finished cut on each so that they are parrellel with each other than it will give the calmps something to clamp on without sliding off. then you could just cut off that part after its dry

because! they are cool!

no but im currently designing my own single stop tail that will be good for either lefty or righty, and it will probably sell for about 45-60$ depending on the finish

i usually get my necks to about 1/16 more than the finished thickness down the center of the neck, my necks are cut to the widths needed first, then i just use an old draw knife to remove the majority of the waste from the edges, then i go to a stanley made tool the has a removable :rasp"type blade on it this works really fast! then i go to a file rasp to finish it up but i usually get the headstock area and the heel area to a close to finished shape then i glue the fret board on and then finish shaping the neck this way i dont screw up anything! i might try the straight flush bit on my next neck and see how that works. but i think its quicker to do it by hand! and much safer! until i build my duplicarver wich im currently designing !

the one i use says if you spray on both pieces than it will be removeable, and it works great! its a 3m i think i got it at depot or lowes, i ran out so i just used double sided tape tonight but they both work well.

whats the link?

well i do spray in the room but i covered the fan motor so no fumes can get in,i think. when it was nice outside like 70- 80 deg. and no wind i would spray out side then bring them in the room but now i have to spry inside. i guess i better get renters insurance hugh? im getting a fire extiguisher to keep in the room though just in case.

looks good! i'd like to see maple pup rings though but tmo

no im being serious! the kid took it back (that is an indian giver) it had nothing to do with"raj" but i could see how you thought that. its ok i forgive you!