Johnny Foreigner

Would I be right in thinking that the Stewmac wb sanding sealer is equal to the EM1000 universal sanding sealer and the Stewmac WB top coat lacquer is equal to the the EmTech 6000 production lacquer?

I'll probs wait the 4 weeks then. I figure the extra hardness will do a little to help idiot proof my first time wet sanding and buffing a finish.

Nearing the end of my finishing schedule on the first build.

I'm using Stewmac's waterbased finish. The instructions on the site say cure for 1 week, but I've also heard 3-4 weeks.

thoughts? experiences?

If Jimmy Page can lay down MASSIVE riffs on a stock one so can you.

That's a little like saying "If Jimmy Page can write Kashmir, so can you" or "If Jimmy Page can be one of history's most respected guitarists, so can you"

I can't even play Stairway. I've got no chance of making a tele sound good.

So you're going to paint this one, yeah?

good to know!!

Then, I swabbed the hole with lacquer to seal it up, this is a very important step if you intend on wet-sanding the finish out, because this is where trouble typically happens. I also swabbed the hole I just made in the neck pkp area and the pot holes as well.

Is this step only necessary because you cut the holes after finishing? ie. is this step also necessary if you drilled your holes, then sprayed? does enough lacquer usually get into the hole when spraying to seal it? or is it worth doing anyway?

I actually finally got a response from Ken at GPO so no need to buy that multimeter just yet.

If anyone else wants the answer:

it's my first guess

Firstly the book is 288 pages, all in colour

YAY!

and has been delayed a few times

Boo.

due to things like becoming single and stuff.

Ouch. Commiserations.

It is finished, there is a chapter on a Martin Factory visit that is at Martin for approval (only fair really, they were very helpful) and I am waiting colour proofs before the whole thing goes to print.

This should be all done in a week or so and then about four weeks until I see copies.

Fantastic news. I await it with baited breath and itchy fingers.

To my taste:

For three woods, #3 is the nicest, followed by #1. Not a fan of #2.

For two woods, #3 is a classic and very nice combo, the other two also look good but #2 has the edge (difficult to say without seeing the actual woods).

Personally, I'd either do 3 woods #3 or two woods #3.

i'm going to be doing 3 necks, so it's either 2 woods or 3 woods, and I'll do all three necks that style.

taste question:

do I go with 3 woods per neck as originally planned:

or 2 woods per neck:

??

ok, so I'll give it a go with my original plans.

and if it all goes tits up, at least I can still paint over the discoloration and have usable necks.

I could also go

and eliminate the problem entirely.

see - that discoloring the maple thing is something that would never have occurred to me. cheers, fellas.

anything that can be done to minimize discoloration? avoid sanding entirely?

take it easy on your self, the easiest way to prevent a mistake is to not do anything. atleast you gave it one hell of a try

eh?

bingo.

thanks wez - that's exactly what I was looking for. best go and buy a multimeter now.

I bought a set of these: http://www.guitarpartsonline.com/product_i...products_id=185

they're 4 wire and I want to do some series/parallel switching on them.

However, the wiring instructions only mention that green is hot, black is ground and for normal operation you should tape red and white together.

soooo....

i need to figure out if it's:

or

right? because if I get it wrong, the dpdt switch won't work at all.

I assume what I need to do is get a multimeter and test something. buggered if I could tell you what I should test or how, however. advice gratefully received.

so after my recent neck-related fubar (http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43367&view=findpost&p=470049) I am dipping my toe into the waters of laminate necks.

what i'm after is something like Jaden's GOTM entry: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=468694

I'm going to be using paduak, bubinga and curly maple - i have enough for 3 necks, so I'm going to rotate the order thus:

is there anything I need to know that might seem obvious to seasoned woodworkers, but may not be to an idiot like me?

I'm refinishing my old LP copy - literally "customizing" it with multiply binding, opaque black finish, rectangular inlays, etc.

my question is this, before I spray my color coat(s):

masking off the binding seems easy enough on the edge of the guitar, but it seem like it will be difficult to follow the curves correctly on the top of the guitar.

Do i just need to go slow and be careful, or is there some way I can spray away and then scrap the color coat off the binding?

i'm using stewmac water-base and I've sprayed my sanding sealer coats, so ready now to do a color coat or two.

awesome work!

it was one of these fellas:

http://cgi.ebay.com/TWO-WAY-TWO-COURSE-GUI...=item5d2a181ee4

and no, it wasn't glued in, just held in by the tightness of the route.

...because i want to see if i guessed its breaking point right (3rd fret marker)

That answers that, then.

The thing snapped like a dry twig. Scary what a difference 90 degrees makes. Lesson well and truly learned.

I was able to save the fretboard so I'll reuse that.

You can build guitars out of about anything when your woodworking skills are good enough.

ha ha ha! that's the problem, I think! zero woodworking skills.

might try a laminate neck as well - thinking maple, paduak and bubinga for some nice color variation - unless there's some reason those combos wouldn't work (I'm VERY paranoid now!!)

Seriously tho, any reason I shouldn't use those woods together?

PS thanks to Wez for spotting this and pointing it out before I got any further in the build.

Stuff like that which is obvious to more experienced hands, and completely NOT obvious to noobs like me is precisely why I post on these forums, and precisely why they're so useful. i'm even finding I now have some advice to contribute to others at the very noob stages, and I think it's great that people can pass on their knowledge like this.

Thanks Wez!