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Johnny Foreigner

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Posts posted by Johnny Foreigner

  1. Seems like it will patch up okay, and the aesthetic damage will be the kind you'd only notice if someone pointed it out.

    Frustrating, but not as bad as it could have been. The neck cracked a little near the heel, but not all the way through, so I was able to dribble some Titebond in and clamp and it seems stronger than ever now.

  2. Avengers: feel free to have any opinion you wish to have. But then I'm allowed to have one as well; even if that includes pointing out that you're often overly critical and despite trying to be proper, have a way of saying things that IMO comes off not just blunt and honest, but rude. And in many cases hypocritical given some places you lack skills in.

    I'll admit, this one wasn't that bad, it was simply finally the one that made me speak up.

    Chris

    +1

    ...but we can all be guilty of that from time to time.

  3. Next up... Ibex violin planes

    1) 30mm body / 10mm blade - convex sole

    Excellent condition, used on a couple of builds only. $63 new from Stewmac, yours for just $30 including priority shipping to lower 48 (all others $30 plus shipping at cost)

    391997_10150445240092167_560627166_8868570_636818708_n.jpg

    400382_10150445240312167_560627166_8868571_2044327182_n.jpg

    378545_10150445240517167_560627166_8868572_134990207_n.jpg

    402125_10150445240707167_560627166_8868573_1602653005_n.jpg

    394114_10150445240867167_560627166_8868574_996913479_n.jpg

  4. My current build it too thin for a regular LP 3 way toggle, so I'm looking at the SG style toggle, but I'm also intrigued by using something like this one:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Chrome-DPDT-3-Way-Guitar-Toggle-Switch-/390363937651?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5ae380fb73

    It's a DPDT and I don't need the second poll, but I want to be sure that it will work just like an LP switch, as in:

    position 1: neck

    middle position: neck and bridge combined

    position 2: bridge

    Can anyone confirm?

  5. alrighty.

    Neck carve largely done. I wanted to get the bulk done before fretting, but equally wanted to finish it once the neck pocket was cut so I could blend it in as much as possible with the heel.

    Looking pretty nice. I like neck carving. Pretty hard to mess up. My tools were my ibex violin plane, a plastic surform, a scraper and some 60 grit. I'm sure there are probably more appropriate tools, but those are what seem to work best for me.

    373921_10150423618412167_560627166_8774624_530843862_n.jpg

    377540_10150423618567167_560627166_8774627_397750742_n.jpg

    wet:

    393952_10150423618647167_560627166_8774629_1171172268_n.jpg

  6. Spraying anything, even rattle cans, is not going to be a possibility due to the fact I'm in an apartment.

    I like the idea of a burst of some sort.

    maybe like this:

    original.jpg

    My other concern is that - as this is my last build - I don't want to buy a ton of dye I'll never use again. I like the look of the water soluble aniline dyes from LMII. Could I achieve a decent burst with just, say, amber and red, or amber and brown? I think the amber very thinned could be almost a yellow, through to almost orange at stronger concentration, then a red or brown could pick it there.

    hmmm...

    lots to think about.

  7. I'm not taking nearly enough pictures along the way, but here's a quick update:

    the headplate has been thinned and marked up for the truss rod cover cutout:

    390268_10150411772362167_560627166_8738689_35888122_n.jpg

    And with the inlays done, fretboard glued on, headplate glued on, it's beginning to look a little like a guitar.

    379117_10150411772427167_560627166_8738690_1356103632_n.jpg

    392251_10150411772527167_560627166_8738692_735747414_n.jpg

    Next up: I'm going to cut the neck pocket, get my bridge and pup routes lined, then carve the neck and fret 'er up.

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