Johnny Foreigner

This is more a musing than serious question, but is it possible/desirable/sensible to wind a pickup totally by hand, with no winder.

I guess 10,000 turns is going to take a while, and if you forget what number turn you're on, it could get tricky.

Just a thought...

I always think I'm going to love Huf's guitars, then I get to that shot of the back of the neck and it looks so..... dry... and it puts me right off.

Honorable mention to Swedish, but the vote goes to Scatter. The violin ones were impressive, but this makes me drool with lust. Perfect execution of a classic design.

I sent it back. Replacement has arrived, but my building's elevator is knackered, so can't get it upstairs yet.

I spoke extensively with Jet customer service. They sent me the instructions on adjusting the outfeed table. I adjusted it to the topmost adjustment I could (there wasn't actually very much latitude for adjustment at all) and the two tables were still several full degrees out.

From what I've read of other peoples' problems on the Amazon reviews, most commonly the tables are fractions of degrees out, and the adjustment to the outfeed table is a good fix. I think mine was just a poorly put together example.

Hopefully the replacement is better. If not, I'll return it for a refund and get the smallest Grizzly jointer instead - I can live without the planer for now.

I was following everyone's arguments right up to:

WAAHHHHHH WAAAAHHHHHHH WAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH LISTEN TO ME!!!! WWWWAAAAAHHHHHH!

Wow.

Didn't realize this is what I'd start with a simple question.

Anyway, on a slightly unrelated note, can anyone give me some tips on building a sustainer?

Finally bought a jointer. For reasons of space and economy, figured i might as well get the one that also planes.

Anyway, a bunch of the reviews on Amazon mentioned the infeed and outfeed tables not being coplanar, and how if you contact Jet customer support they email you instructions on how to make the adjustment.

However, even adjusting the outfeed table as far up as possible, with the cut depth at 0, the two tables are a good few degrees out of parallel with one another.

I just wanted to confirm that I'm not being an idiot and that is an issue.

The good news is that from everything I've read, Jet have amazing customer service and fix problems very quickly. Sadly they're shut over the weekend, so I figured I could check with y'all.

I've written an informative article on the subject a couple weeks ago, maybe you will find this to be interesting...

Sound and Species

SUPER interesting, thanks Patrick!

Walnut body should rock. I am experimenting with 2 walnut bodied guitars this year I just haven't posted them yet. When they are done I will let you know how they go.

Awesome. A buddy wants me to build him an SG, so I'm thinking walnut topped with black dyed quilted maple. I've been rereading the Hand of Doom thread obsessively. That thing was insanely beautiful. Best SG I've ever seen by a long shot.

interesting....

what about walnut for a body wood (topped with maple)? Any thoughts on workability / sound considerations?

at this stage I've used both genuine mahogany and african mahogany.

I found the genuine very easy to work with - easy to cut, easy to sand, etc. The african less so.

I'm inclined to use genuine again, but as it's nearly double the price most places, I was also looking at Sapele.

How would that stack up against the two mahoganys in terms of ease of working, ease of finishing, etc.

this is a concern with any "strap lock" system. if you forget your strap, you're kind of SOL unless someone around has the exact same system...

Except the Schaller ones, which use a relatively normal button - one that you can use without the locks at all.

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Schaller-Guitar-Strap-Locks-and-Buttons-Pair-?sku=360389

Cracking first build.

Ditto the comments about the ferrule recesses, straplocks and pickup screws. Very clean build - your experience with wood (that's what she said) shows. Good job!

WANT!

dude, this is AMAZING looking. Keep it up!

Serious? this isn't rocket science. Mark a 1/16" on each end and sand to the mark by rocking the block on the [em]belt sander[/em].

Don't got one. Although I'm finally getting a jointer, which should arrive today and make the neck lams easier/nicer.

Nice clamps. If you put a slight radius on the bottom of the cross bars they will actually add clamping pressure to the middle of the deck.

ahh cunning. Though I fear putting a slight, consistent radius on would be beyond my current capabilities.

got the top glued on:

(that's a shadow you see there due to the top overhanging the limba, not a gigantic gap

Maybe it is my computer, but these pics seemed so large I thought it was going to crash it.

+1 - scale 'em down.

I haven't really read all the replies, so not sure if this has come up, but remember that with playing bass you don't *generally* bend the strings as much, so as long as there's something outside the outside of the outside strings, you're fine.

This is the best I can do for you right now, it's a preradiused board, as are most of my inlay jobs:

Perry, what sort of blade are you using to cut the pearl in that video? Just tried cutting my first inlay and the blade kept getting caught on the upstroke and I ended up snapping my inlay multiple times. Ended up shaping it with my dremel instead.

Put it on too thick, and you'll have a nasty blue haze (ask me how I know).

+1 on the Stewmac waterbase

I was thinking a Build-Walk-Through-Forum....

That would be awesome - take the best build threads, strip out all the questions and "looking good!" comments, lock them and put them in a separate area.

It would require work from a mod though, and would no doubt cause arguments over which build threads were best. Maybe five nominations in the thread would qualify it for inclusion...

The two members whose threads I always always have to check out are RestorationAD and Guitarnut. I always check out Our Souls and Avenger as well - I don't like either of their aesthetic styles particularly, but they're both very ingenious builders who bring a fresh approach.

OK: resurrecting this thread from the dead as I've slowly started a little more work on it.

Cut me my first ever bits of mop for the 12th fret inlay. On my first 2 builds I did a much more subtle epoxy fill, but I decided it was time to bust out the bling.

Hi,

just a progress photo of the carve on my guitar top, almost done after hours of a bit at a time, wiped it over with a damp cloth (guess its ok to do that), just a few tweaks left and final sand with finer grades and i guess next up is to experiment with some dyes on an off-cut.

Looking good, man. You can wipe with mineral spirits/naptha as much as you want. Wiping with water will raise the grain on the maple (which you will want to do deliberately before dyeing, but that's a different topic).

Dyeing a figured maple top is one of life's great experiences.