Mender

hello!

yes it is a Kahler tremolo, but the photo was shot without the tremolo arm...

the screws are long enough to grab the body bellow the top as the tremolo is routed in the top...

Oh, my mistake. I couldn't make out the hole for the trem arm, or even the cam where the hole would be.

Aaaargh! I've been wrong twice in one week! My reputation is ruined

Where does it say diagonally?

Basically the neck profile is fatter near the lower strings and gradually tapers as it gets to the high E string. The Trussrod is also offset and runs through the thicker portion of the neck.

The truss rod is offset from centre, and presumably, runs parallel to centre.

Also Ibanez have used 1 truss rod since the RG2228 came out, so if its good enough for them.

I was going by what Huff said here:

Have you seen the new "first ever" Jackson 8 string which was presented at the NAMM show?

The guy placed the truss rod diagonally...

When you routed the binding channel in the arm contour area, were you able to keep the bottom edge of the channel 90 degrees to the sides, or is it parallel to the angle of the contour?...

...SR

The Tele with the binding isn't the one with the contour

EDIT: I must learn to read everything properly before making any comments. Of course, Chad has routed for a binding on the contoured guitar

Very cool. One question though. I know that Kahler tremolos don't need a huge route like the Floyd Rose, but that top is strong enough to hold the bridge? I would think that over time string tension would start to pull it free from the wood. Just asking.

That isn't a Kahler tremolo, it is a Kahler fixed bridge. Looking at the thickness of the top, and the bridge recess only appearing to be a tiny amount, perhaps 1/16" deep, there should be plenty of wood there to hold the screws firmly.

Mounting a trussrod diagonally sounds a bit silly to me. I would have thought that would help to create a twist in the neck, which rather defeats the object of the excercise

That top may be bleached, or just very pale maple or similar wood. It seems to be coated with translucent white, which is basically clear with a bit of white mixed with it

Of course, you could have two volume controls, a 500k for the humbucker, and a 250k for the single coils, and just have a single tone control.

He's almost as awesome as the "jet frets" guy.

Most decent guitars will give good sustain if played through good amps. Gary Moore played Strat, Tele, Les Paul, Explorer - he played dozens of different guitars, and he always got incredible sustain, but he also had great tone to go with it

If, however, the low "E" gives the problem this time, then I would suggest the pole piece has become demagnetised

My thought also until I realized it is a rail pickup

Ah yes Okay, let's pretend I didn't mention that then

I would still go for rotating the pickup though

Ok thanks, I'll try that tonight.

...Could I have blown something?

The way pickups are made, you can't blow a single segment. Either the whole thing works, or it doesn't, unless there is a bad pole piece.

I was going to suggest rotating the pickup 180 degrees so the top is at the bottom and the bottom is at the top. If the top "e" still gives the same problem, then you can rule the pickup out of the equation. Then I would look at the bridge saddle for problems.

If, however, the low "E" gives the problem this time, then I would suggest the pole piece has become demagnetised, although that is highly unlikely as you have had this problem on more than one pickup.

Hi, no the strings are all from the same set of Ernie Balls.

I would still be tempted to change the high "e" string. It could simply be a duff string even though it works on the neck pickup.

I recently bought a used Peavey Predator (strat copy) and was thinking about putting some different parts on it. One particular item was a 2 point tremolo instead of the existing vintage style trem.. I was curious about whether or not I could do this because of string spacing, on my guitar it seems to be 2 1/8". With that tremolo I thought it might be neat to throw on these roller saddles I found - This is where I came up with this concern, because at least for these saddles alone in the description they have said that the spacing must be at least 2 3/16". Another thing I might add is that I already have a Fender LSR roller nut to install on the guitar as well. Between these 3 parts, is it likely that I'll be able to get it right?

The difference between 2 1/8 and 2 3/16 is so slight, it shouldn't cause a problem as long as the saddles will fit on the bridge you intend using. The strings will be marginally closer to the edge of the fretboard at the body end, but only by the tiniest amount. I suggest you go ahead and do it. Don't forget that to fit the LSR roller nut, you need to cut the fretboard a little closer to the first fret to maintain the correct intonation

I landed an aluminum neck not too long ago. My gut tells me that the best way to adhere the fretboard would be epoxy. Am I right, or is there a better option?

I would agree, epoxy is your best bet, but just make sure you sand the mating surface of the neck with 320 grit paper to give it a key to bond to

Do you guys have any ideas on what finish was used on stoves and such like the one in my first post? I'm not sure I will go with the real deal eventually, but it might be a nice addition to the feel of the build.

Stove enameling wouldn't really be possible on a guitar because it is (or at least, it should be) baked enamel. It is applied as a powder and baked at a very high temperature, much like the glaze on crockery. A guitar would simply go up in flames at those temperature. You can get cold brush or spray enamel, but it looks and feels nothing like proper stove enamel.

does anybody else have trouble with the templates on floydrose.com? they never print to size is there another copy somewhere on the internet?

Your printing software probably has a scaling option so you can force it to print at the correct size.

Try viewing it in a different browser. Try google chrome, it's pretty reliable. And free.

FireFox browser works perfectly

Shait, the filler option aint working.. It crumbles when I sand it.. Could this be because the filler I use is to old? Any other ideas for solving this problem?

As they are pretty shallow, I would just sand the wood down to get rid of the dips. Sanding carefully, you should be able to blend it all in and looking good.

...The middle pin inside this jack connects to one leg while the side or sleeve of the jack connects to the other leg on the switch...

Whoa there. If the power input from the jack is connected to the switch legs in the way you describe, bridging the two pins will create a dead short across the power supply!

Have you removed the switch completely from the circuit board? You may find more contact points underneath the switch itself.

First thing to do though, before you mess around with the PodXT, make sure it is the correct power supply for the PodXT. You say yours is 9v AC 200ma. It should be 9v AC 2000ma.

Assuming you mis-typed the details, and it is the correct power supply, check that it is actually working, because obviously, if the power supply isn't working, the PodXT won't switch on.

Dammit Mender, that blows. Around here, we'd say hang tough...is keep a stiff upper lip roughly the same thing for a Brit?

SR

Yep, same meanings

Its not always a matter of long fingers - mine are long as heck too, but they are thick so I make all my necks wider than normal. Thats why I started making my own nuts - finding them in "my" width wasn't easy.....

I can play an Am chord with two fingers on a regular strat or LP, and always mute out the G string on an open C .

Spreading the width out leaves me with enough room to get my digits in there.

Probably a good thing I switched to bass recently.....

My fingers aren't particularly long, and not especially thick, but I find it uncomfortable to play a narrow neck, i.e., a 42mm or 43mm (1 9/16" - 1 5/8") nut width. That is the main reason I got into building my own guitars (and then for other people). I wanted a wider neck, which couldn't be bought over the counter, so I made myself a guitar with a 46mm (1 13/16") nut, and later, 48mm (1 7/8"). These I find extremely comfortable to play, and most of my customers over the years have preferred these sizes. I also prefer shorter scale guitars.

Of course, at the moment, I can't play any size neck, or build anything, as the wrist op I had in November didn't go according to plan, and I can't rotate my forearm at all now. I may need more surgery in the near future to correct this problem

So I ended up with a 5 string Alvarez bass neck for roughly 30 dollars......... and some time.

On a different note : whats up with their scarf joint ?!? That really looks like end-grain bonding, and right on the headstock.

That's the 'best' way they could do it ?!?

I think you'll find the scarf joint is actually a sharp angle, not end grain. You can't see the angle because the sides are covered by the strips glued on to increase the width of the headstock, and the black face plate covers the fact that the neck wood actually goes at least halfway up the face of the headstock. I hope you can see what I mean

Just saw this over at lumberjocks, thought you might get a kick out of it.

Crappy Guitar

I wonder if he will use a "drop" tuning?

That pic is scary where neck lies on the table and truss rod is on the background.

LOL! no worries. just a dry fit for pics. no glue yet.

As if anyone would ever forget to fit the trussrod before glueing the fretboard down...

...besides me

Only ever did it once though. It's not the sort of thing you get caught out on a second time

I love the inlays

Big buffer http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...fing_Arbor.html

There are also smaller systems, including pads that can be fitted to an electric drill.

I've used it a bunch - no neck dive...

Of course there is no neck dive. The neck is balanced with the Washburn Wonderbar Shift 2001, the biggest heaviest whammy bar system ever made I actually had two of those, one I put on an Ovation Breadwinner style guitar I built a while ago, and one I have sitting here in almost showroom condition waiting for my wrist to get fit for building again