Devon Headen

If you don't mind losing fingers, anyway

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Careful, you might offend a leper.

I can't believe I just said that.

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I just came from that thread, too

If you don't mind losing fingers, anyway

I'm pretty sure LGM isn't doing custom stuff anymore.

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Not quite true, I am ONLY doing complete custom guitars and the Leviathans, just not doing the custom mod's to existing guitars anymore.

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Oops, sorry about that

You're probably not going to get someone that does good work at that price. Anyone that will accept a commission at that price will probably be an amateur at best. Just a friendly warning to do your homework if anyone offers to do it for that.

My first instinct says it's necessary.

I'm pretty sure LGM isn't doing custom stuff anymore.

Good to hear it worked out. In case you were wondering why it happened the way it happened here's a brief explanation. When you tighten a truss rod it counteracts the pull of the strings. So if you have a dead flat neck and tighten it, you will get up bow (warped high in the middle, whether that's upbow or downbow). What happened in your case was that to counteract for the extra tension the heavy gauge strings put on the neck, you tightened the truss rod pretty far foward (or so it sounds). That's where the real danger is, so for not knowing what you were doing you got pretty lucky you didn't strip something out. Then when you switched back to light strings, all that extra tension just dissapeared, but the truss rod was still fighting it. By backing off the truss rod you eased the neck back into the position it is in at a relaxed state. If you get it dead flat and still have room to back the rod off, you can put a little relief in the neck (slightly lower in the middle), which some people prefer.

Or just busy...I'll shoot him a PM and ask.

Why do you say that about his join date? He joined almost 2 years ago before we were so big. If you look at his 10 posts, he's never even mentioned this product before. Anyhow, on topic, I'd say don't buy it. Like Maiden says, you can find all the info on this site, and if you have any problems, you have free tech support .

Have you backed the rod all the way back off again and seen how the bow was then?

I've used one of the 3-1/4 PC ones before and like you said, I felt like it was too big. And it was as heavy as a load of bricks. I'm nearly sure I'm going with a Porter Cable. I have a friend that has a PC router table that he never uses and said I could have if I could ever use it. It'd sure be nice not to have to rig up a table. Then again, I never use the router table I did rig up since I got a shaper at a yard sale for $30.

The grooved blade planes are nice when carving the inside of arched top instruments. He's talking about the plane sole, not the blade, I'm pretty sure.

I'm pretty sure it threw a bearing. Will have a funeral for the poor soul this afternoon (toss it in the dumpster ), but it gives me an excuse to get a nice 1/2" router I've wanted.

The Stewmac blade is a hollow rim ground blade, so it's thick all except the edge. That mean you don't need any stabalizers. The lmii blade is just .023 all the way. You have to add stabalizers to it so it doesn't wobble or distort from heat.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0555

That's the saw I have, no problem resawing so far and I've cut 7-8" maple on it. Comes standard with roller bearings, and the riser block is the cheapest I've seen (like $58 I think).

Done anymore work on this one?

It doesn't smell bad, but if I shake it, there's metal clanging around inside. When it sparked, I felt little pieces of metal flying all over me. I'm borrowing one from a friend for now (the only thing I needed the router for was the neck pocket and pickup cavities) but I need to get a new one pretty quickly. It's been acting weird for quite some time, so I'm not suprised it broke finally.

Are you measuring down the centerline? might sound like a dumb question, but you never know. You should measure straight down the centerline of the guitar instead of from the nut to the stud.

Just bind it a bit into the neck pocket, then when you rout, the binding will terminate right at the pocket.

Now it's working...that was odd.

Looks like your album isn't public anymore, so it won't let me see the pics.

I did? I built the one that's over in the mimf library. Actually, Marcus already asked me about my scarf jointing via PM. From what he said, I'm guessing he built the same jig I did. The problem is that the blade only has 3" cutting height on our saws. What I did was cut through as high as the blade would cut, then use that kerf as a guide to handsaw the rest of the way through. Then just clean it all up with a block plane. I don't think I'll do that again, I think I'll just use narrower stock and glue on ears. That's more efficient anyhow.

In other words it's fine. As for cheap quilt maple (especially 1.5" thick!), that doesn't exist.

So I'm routing the reference line for the carve on my newest creation, and 'POW!!' *sparkspark* it's dead ....I was setting a new record, too. I have 3 days in this entire build so far, and I only have one, two days tops before I can start finishing. And I've spent just about a grand in the last month already. AND the guy I would normally borrow one from is out of town for over a week. Joy, now it's time to go figure this deal out.

www.grizzly.com . I heard about them, because my dad get's their catalog every year. Their luthier section expands ALOT every year.