Devon Headen

I think Jehle would be great, too. He could be the 'dancing banana mod'.

I say Devon Headen.  You have been here longer than me.

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I appreciate the thought, but I don't meet the age requirements. Even if that could slide, I don't have the time. I could only spend an hour a day on here tops. I'm really busy, that's why I haven't been very active on the forum for quite some time.

I'm gonna say Mattia. He's fairly new, but he seems to know his way around the forum very well.

I didn't see that it was from scratch. If you're still tweaking the build I can understand wanting to get everything right.

Putting the polepieces closer to the strings will reduce their sustain. The magnetic pull will interfere with the strings vibration.

What kind of music are you playing that you need to hold a note for more than 7 seconds?

You don't 'fix' pores. If you have a porous fretboard wood, you will have pores on your fretboard. As long as you don't buff your fretboard out, they usually aren't too noticeable. I've never heard of anyone grainfilling a fretboard.

Make sure it's wide enough to run the body through.

A thickness planer would be ideal for taking the body thickness down. If you don't have any friends that have one, look of cabinet shops in your phone book. I'm sure just about anyone would thickness it for a small fee.

Has the body been rounded over yet? If so, you'll have to run the body through a planer a couple of times. If this body is already rounded over, I'd just use it for a project as is. If you want a figured top takes Drak's advice and either buy a body with a figured top already on it, or make your own.

The spray bombs are the good stuff. They usually cure hard within a week if you spray correctly. The brushable stuff takes forever to cure. I've never used it on a guitar, but I've tried it on smaller pieces. It has a lot of retarder added (I think) so it will flow out well.

The only problem with the tablesaw jig is that you're limited to your tablesaw's cutting height. Not a problem if you're gluing on ears, but otherwise you have to finish with a handsaw and clean up the joint with a hand plane.

I'm working on an F-style right now, but it's not very far and I've been too busy to work on it lately. I'm borrowing some finger planes from a friend this weekend, so I can't wait to get crankin on arching the plates next week.

Keep us updated, looks like a lot of fun.

I think it'd look great on a modern looking design. My only worry is that the tiny little rib of wood between the detatched section and the body of the 'f' would crack or break completely.

I'd just leave it.

What the heck happened to that thing? Looks like someone took a ball peen hammer to it.

Since you epoxied them in, I'm pretty sure you won't get them out. Heat makes epoxy a little gummy, so you can try heating and pulling. You might wind up having to drill the bushings out and buy new ones. For future reference, there is absolutely no reason to glue the bushings in.

I have a really good feeling there will be sand throughs if you use epoxy. If you've never worked with it before you don't realize how messy it can be when you spread it over a whole guitar. I'd try to find some regular grainfiller to tint personally, it would be a lot easier to work with.

I agree with you about the random feeling of the inlay. I was just thinking it could be earlier in his career before he got the sense of direction he has now. Although for all I know, he's always had the sense of direction. Still can't hurt to ask him.

Totally off the wall guess, but it looks like Larry Robinson. It reminds me a lot of the guitars he has in his inlay book. Even if that's right I really have to idea about price. I'd imagine quite a lot if you could find someone that appreciates massive inlays like that.

EDIT: Just got a thought. If you want to ask Larry, his website is http://robinsoninlays.com/

Draw out the guitar full sized and you'll answer all of your own questions. Sounds like a smart answer, but it really is the best thing to do. When you draw out the side view you will determine where your pocket starts.

Smart move. I know I spend too much time on here, and cutting off all access really would help me be more productive. Might see you around sometime. Get busy and build some guitars when you get the time.

Not to mention the neck pocket is way too wide. What on earth happened to that guitar? If you want to spend quite a bit of time to fix it properly, cut a block and glue it into the pocket, then rerout. Unless you're going for a solid color, it will look terrible no matter what you do.

If you absolutely must turn it in, and it's not ready, be sure you don't lay the finish on anything textured before whoever needs to look at it sees it. If the lacquer isn't hard and your put in on something textured (just about everything except leaving it hanging) it'll mark very easily. You can always finish sand and buff twice if you layed down a thick enough finish. My gut says it won't be fully cured in a week and a half.

That's some really nice walnut, especially for free. Surprisingly I like the design. I don't usually go for wild designs. The only thing I don't like has been mentioned before. The upper horn will get in your way of upper fret access big time. I think just cutting that really sharp point off next time (assuming you build another one) will help a lot with functionality and won't hurt the look. I personally think you should've gotten that middle piece of walnut bookmatched and used it as a top. Doesn't look quite right have the glue lines where they are.

He answered your question. Yes, he was rude about it, but it is an extremely obvious question that has been answered countless times. At least he took the time to answer it again for you.

A forstner bit isn't a router bit, it's a drill bit. You use it first so your router bits don't have to remove so much wood. This lengthens the life of router bits.