Devon Headen

Just turn the shaft until it clicks, and the grover minis are in the right position. Slip the string through then start winding and you're ready to play.

It's all about the string change speed on hardtails for me.

Also, I don't route the whole shebang to the same depth. Rout to a thicker depth than you need, then use a forstner bit to fine tune the depth for each pot/switch.

There should be some concerns about glue joints over the long term.  Especially if you are building a neck thru.  My first neck thru guitar was covered heavily with rattlecan poly, cures very hard and doesn't flex.  The wood WILL expand and contract for any number of reasons, temp./ humidity changes,  still drying,  internal stress from clamping, whatever.  But the hard urethane coating won't flex with these expansions and contractions and a very fine crack will form along glue joint seams.  I've read that many furniture builders prefer not to use compounds from the "urethane" family for that very reason.

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But that's not the glue joint failing, that's just finish settling

I think he's looking for something like Tru oil. I've never used it, but I've heard a lot about it. Do a forum search for it and you'll find a lot of info. The Rustin's stuff is still a really hard finish, and I don't think that's what he's going for.

Call me a cheapskate if you want, but it took under 2 hours to get this thing shaving as good as planes I've borrowed from a 30 year woodworking vet. You're all advising him to buy the plane straight out, but it's from an antiques shop. You really can't have any idea what kind of working condition the plane is in from what he's told us. I've seen #7s for $85 that were pieces of crap, and like I said I got mine for $12. I -know- how my plane cuts. A good plane doesn't have to be expensive. I have a #6 that my parents got in a box of cast iron skillets. Get this. Has a tapered hock replacement blade in it. I think they got the whole box for about $10. The plane isn't anything to write home about, but I swapped the blade out with another #6 I have.

I've heard that the only real difference between the solid soled, and the channel soled planes is the speed with which you can true them up. I've never used one, though. Supposedly it cuts down on friction, but I know a couple people that said it really doesn't.

The one and only thing that I think would make it look better is binding the fretboard. Especially since the body is bound, I think it would look more 'finished' if the fretboard was bound, too.

If you take warning you about health risks as egotism something's not quite right.

You'll be fine. I've never personally used it, but I've seen guys that use the equivalent of that stuff's work, and there's no problem with the wood.

I guess that's true, I was just assuming it was one of the "antique shop" junk places. If it's really quite a bit older, the Stanleys were really good. I have a friend that has an older one, and it's really nice. Mine was flat and square, so maybe I just got a really good deal. It's newer I believe, though. You can find good #6's all the time for good prices, though. The plane is worth $80, I'm just saying it can be had for much less if you look a bit harder.

No. Go to a flea market and look for them. I got a #7 in pretty good shape (just the top of the handle was broken off) for $12. Talked him down form $15. After about an hour of truing the plane and honing the blade she cuts great. There's no way I'd pay almost $80 for a used #7 Stanley.

Recently I haven't been able to write anything even halfway decent. Actually I've barely been able to write at all. Just take my word for it, it's not for lack of subject matter, I have -TONS- of stuff to write about. I can't seem to get it out in lyrics though. Sometimes I have difficulty, but nothing like this. I've gotten a few pretty interesting music parts for the songs down, even a melody for one that I'm really digging, but still no lyrics. I've gotten about a half a page worth the last week, and it all sucks. I'm working on this at least two hours a day, so it's not for lack of effort. Anybody have any suggestions for getting some good lyrics going?

Awhile ago he was building a design he created a lot. I really liked it. I guess all the pictures from it have gone down with various servers.

Get the inserts and you'll understand how it works. They self screw down into the neck. You have to drill a hole where the neck screws are the right diameter. Make sure everything lines up PERFECTLY, or you'll never get the bolts to lock down. The length of my screws is irrelevant, you'll have to measure for what length you need.

Yes. I like it because I can remove the neck as many times as I want without having to worry about the holes stripping out. Go for a smaller size that 1/4-20. It's what we had, so it's what I used. It's fine except that they don't quite fit in the stewmac neck ferrules. The neck ferrule holes are right at 1/4". It's hard to bore that hole out bigger if you don't have a clamp on your drill press.

I've used threaded inserts on electric guitar necks before. My dad already had some, so that's where I got mine. I think he ordered them when he was building a desk for someone, so you might want to look at desk/cabinet hardware.

Erik, we -NEED- more pictures of that bass (?). Those laminations alone are making me drool.

On topic, my slotting set up is just a sled that rides on the table saw. Lay out the fret slots, and cut away. I don't use templates because I like to use different scale lengths a lot. Looks like that radial arm saw is a little more versatile. My dad has an old radial arm saw he's been talking about getting rid of for a long time, and right now it's just gathering dust. I might have to try something out with it.

Not only do the two pack paints have solvents and airborn particulates, they have iso cyanates that an organic filter respirator will -not- stop.

Do what you want with your health. You have been warned.

Low isocyanate is apparently giving you a false sense of comfort. That's kind of like saying you can drink water because it's not -that- polluted. There's not a chance I'd -ever- spray 2 pack paints without a forced air respirator.

You need 3/4". If the carve is 1/32" shy of taking out all the wood, you're just asking for a disaster by carving down that thin. I'd say leave about 3/16" or 1/4" around the edges.

The stuff is bad for you, but that's what respirators are for. The guy you talked to must want to lose his job or something. Smoking is hazardous and causes cancer, but last time I checked you can still suck smoke into your lungs legally.

As opposed to the overpriced real thing? I'm glad to see it overturned, that lawsuit was a sad attempt of Gibson to corner the market on all singlecut guitars. In my mind it only made them look more ridiculous. With some of the decisions Gibson has been making recently it looks like their cutting their own throat.

I've seen some figured Myrtle recently that would probably suit your need pretty well. I'd just go for maple personally, though.

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