Devon Headen

I'd be tempted to do a really really deep carve and use the whole thickness. You don't get bookmatched stuff that thick very often, so it seems like a bit of a shame to cut it down so thin. Then again, maybe get a 3/4" top and a drop top from it.

i bet i could cut a back belly carve faster than anyone with a sander/grinder, and i'll just use a spokeshave only.

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Yeah, you wana bet?

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I'd take the bet. I'm with Perry on this one. If you learn how to use cutting tools, in my mind they are FAR superior to abrasive tools. A well set up spokeshave can take out a belly contour in no time flat with hardly any chance of screwing up.

Give it back to the guy. Period. If you don't understand basic truss rod adjustment you should NOT be working on other people's guitars.

If it played well before you took it apart, just put it back together the way it was and you'll be fine.

Time is the only thing that's gonna cure the paint. I know a lot of people have had problems with duplicolor clear not curing well.

I've rubbed out by hand before with great results. It's a lot more work, but if you're worried about burning through, you'll have much better control by hand.

I makes no difference at all as long as your bridge is the correct distance from the nut (scale length).

I vote for the jumbo frets. Lighten up your touch so you're just putting enough pressure to get the note to ring out. Most 7s I've played had jumbo frets. Granted I've only played a couple, but I'm about 90% that's your problem.

If it's just on corners you might not, but if it's on a flat section, the areas adjacent to the sand throughs are going to be thin and prone to sanding through. Especially since you have several grits plus buffing to go through still. Like I said, if the corners are where you have problems, you probably won't chase it around. Don't wet sand any more than you absolutely have to on corners so you can keep a good build for buffing.

You can try spot touching it up, but if it's dyed you'll probably have trouble getting a perfect match. And my guess is you're gonna wind up chasing sand throughs around for a bit.

Moulding isn't that bad if you take your time. I probably have a leg up since my father is awesome at it, but if you can build a guitar, you can put up crown moulding. Definitely gonna be easier with a miter saw.

Wow, now that's a hard one to answer. I have a little bit of everything. Except a jointer, but I've never seen the need to buy one since my tablesaw gives me glue quality joints. Probably got about a year's income in the shop, though.

Thirded. Yuk. Interesting concept I guess, but the design bad in my opinion. I especially dislike the upside down tuners.

I've not seen a recessed ring, but I've seen binding/purfling applied to the pickup route when direct mounting. It can look very good.

What about getting some thicker pickup rings (available?) and sanding a contour into the base of the ring, like on a Les Paul?  You could do the archtop bridge trick, stick some sandpaper down onto the carve at the location of the pickup, then rub the ring over the sandpaper to make the contour.

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Just what I was about to suggest. Works a treat. Unless you're opposed to the use of rings, or don't want a material that can easily be sanded.

Search around the forum for someone by the name of Ragasguitars, or something very similar. I believe he did a one peice guitar.

That's gonna depend heavily on your area. You're gonna need a tech to look over it beforehand anyway (assuming that because you don't feel right doing a fret dress you can't read a neck properly), so you might as well go get some quotes.

I'd go for the bandsaw. I've only had a bandsaw for the past several months (in an otherwise very well equipped shop), and it's the most used tool now. Drill press is certainly a close second, but you don't NEED a huge drill press.

I'd drop fill with primer. The bondo might work, but I know the primer will. Sounds like you don't NEED it done right now anyway.

Emotive is mostly covers. I was really dissapointed with that CD after their other releases.

That's what I meant.

Just test it. Make sure the enamel is very dry and just dust the lacquer on for the first couple coats. Can't hurt to see what happens.

Godin, I'll suggest you read up a lot at the MIMF. There are several things in the Cumpiano book that sound easy written, but once you try them they aren't so easy. He doesn't explain the arching very well, and his method for getting the arch has WAY too much room for error.

I said 'about' 1/8". I really meant .124" I just didn't want to sound cocky

What kind of power saw? You'll have to be more specific than that.