Devon Headen

Yes, they are comparable. I love them both, they're a joy to work with. Works like butter under a hot knife with sharp tools.

You'll want to fill the cavity with wood dust, then wick the CA into the wood dust. If you try to mix the two outside of the cavity the mixture hardens immediately. Might want to do it in two or three steps (i.e. fill the hole part of the way with dust, wick glue in, more dust, more glue, etc.) instead to make sure all the dust is soaked in glue.

+1 for teisco. It's similar to some Burns guitars, too, just cheaper looking.

Relief being adjusted at the 12th? I guess you can give it a shot, but unless your neck is WAY out, I wouldn't think the 12th/24th relationship would be too screwed up.

Sounds like you've got rise in tongue. Sucky problem to have. Depending on how sever it is, you'll probably have to do a partial refret to fix it properly.

My squier std strat is three piece alder, so that can't be true in every case.

If you're playing backup guitar, please don't become on of the people that feels the need to play all the time. Only play when you hear a line that will sound good. I've played with too many people that play leadwork through the ENTIRE song nonstop.

Yeah, I've heard people say that you could feel the fretware while you're playing, and on bends you get caught on the edges. It seems to me that if you thin the overlay to the point you can't feel it it's going to look thin.

No they aren't plywood. The chances of the grain looking good are slim to none, though. Usually they have at least a three piece body as well.

If you're cutting down the middle then gluing those for laminates it will have to be perfectly flat. Really it just does. I don't know why we have to keep stressing that every joint needs to be perfect before gluing.

Make sure the part of the thorn that touches the stem will butt all the way up to the stem. If the cavities have different angles, the part on the bottom of the rout will touch, but there will be a gap at the visible part.

ooo, I didn't notice that before. I just cut the frets to the board freehand with the file, then angle them with the jig deal. I think I'm using the fine cut bastard.

I use baileys exclusively. They're cheap and work well with just a little work. I'll probably buy a Vertias sometime down the road, cause I've only heard good things about them thus far.

What's wrong with the one you have now? There's a LOT more to cutting a perfect nut than just 'filing the slots down a bit'. Not to mention it's one of the most important things on the guitar. Here's a good reference.

As long as the blade is square to the table, and the miter slots are parallel to each other and the blade it will work just fine. It's a 6" blade, so there's no problem with the size being too big.

You're designing the bass, you decide. You should really draw it out accurately full size, and it will answer most questions you'll have.

I've ordered some blanks from 'inlaidartist' in the past, and I wasn't too impressed. They weren't too thin, but they weren't flat, and the thickness was all over the radar. Some of it was 1/8" in one place, move over about a half inch, and you were down to 1/16".

The 'collectibles' are perfectly usable in most cases. I got a #6 and two #5s at a big flea market under $40 for all of them. If you can see past all the dirt and spiderwebs, you can get good deals on good tools. One of the #5s was a bit of a lemon, but on the other two I didn't even need to level the sole.

I've never had a problem with deft taking that long, but that's not abnormal for the finish to be easily marked after a month.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but I cut the truss rod slot all the way from the headstock end (open) to whatever length the truss rod is. With a headstock veneer and nut, you cover up the exposed portion at the headstock. It's just a lot easier than plunging for the slot, then drilling for the adjustment pocket.

I wonder why he switched to 400 instead of 800. Maybe he started having problems. I'll have to shoot him a PM.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...912&hl=tutorial

This says 800.

Cast metal is an object that has been made by pouring molten metals into a mold. Machined metal is a form that is cut out of a solid peace.

Ill explain a little further, I used to work in a foundry.

First the master is made; this is the exact shape of what the product is supposed to look like. It is either carved out of solid steal or plastic and are called “tools”. These hollow forms are then filled with wax, these forms are then dipped into slurry and various sands. The sandy wax mold is then put into a large auto-clave and all the wax is melted out.

Next the molds go through a huge oven where they are brought up to temperature; from there they are quickly taken out of the oven, sat in a cart and filled with molten metal. From there they go to knock out where the shell is broke off with basically a huge squirt gun. Then the trees are cut off the molds. Next comes various stages of finishing including sanding, tolerance and clearance test, x-ray tests and slew of other rigorous tests.

There are a few others forms of this process but they are all basically the same basic idea.

As for machining, the metal starts as a block form, attained from a foundry where it was poured into this shape. The blocks are put into various machines like CNC, mills, lathes, stampers, formers to achieve the design...etc. etc... Hope that all makes sense.

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That's lost wax casting, but he asked about die casting. Just do a google search and I'm sure you'll come up with good info, I don't feel like typing up info that's already out there . Forged parts are usually better because the cast parts tend to be more brittle. The act of forging compacts and toughens the structure of the steel. That's not to say there's anything wrong with cast guitar hardware.

Sorry about leaving you guys hanging!

Here's how it is.

Some were close, others were closer, but it's this-

Stew-Mac black epoxy dabbed very gently with the fingertips. Some areas came out too dark, and it's not as "moon" looking as I wanted, but the nice thing is after it dries you can easily sand it off and start over again until your happy!

Thanks for playing!

More soon

Craig Lavin

ww.handcraftinlay.com

w

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With your fingers?

You can sand finer than 320 as long as the paper cuts well. David Myka sands to 800 before dyes if I remember correctly. When the grit falls off and you start burnishing the wood is when there's a bigger problem.