Devon Headen

i have nude pics of carmen electra i could glue on mine

hmmm..doesn't work with the rules, but I think you'd win anyway

Well...all this really depends. The cost depends on what kind of wood, electronics, hardware, etc. you are using. What to build. I'd say that a solid body is probably easier to make a nice guitar your first time.

Also, I think this thread is beggining to digress...anyone wanna post on the original topic?

I think his point was not that sattelites are better, but that they have to be exactly precise.

...it's just like my first girlfriend!

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA Know the feeling

clue-in: krazyderek and Brian are members here.

good idea

All better. Now we can talk about the topic of the thread again. Now that my sigs up...check out the site now :-p.

Now that my sig is working. You guys gotta watch the halloween toon on the site in my sig. Carmen Freakin Miranda! rotfl

Assume, 25 1/2" scale, 10" at nut, and 16"  at 18.75" from nut this results in about 18.16" radius at bridge.

What if the radius was 10" at the nut and totally flat at the 22nd fret. Then the bridge would need an "inverse radius" (just for laughs?) I wonder how that would play.

Do it carrieburst

lol Good idea...well, how I do sunbursts (Fender 3-tone) I get brown, red, and yellow. First wipe on yellow. Then clear and fill the wood (if needed). Then spray a brown angled away from the center of the body 1-2 inches onto the body. Clear and do the same thing with red. Then clear and polish.

Oh yeah...how much dough? Or is it even for sale?

Don't have the time to type it now, so I'm just gonna bump this a bit and let somebody else do it until I have the time. Quickly, the benefit is pretty much that you can have more radius where you play chords normally (lower on the neck) while having a flatter board where you normally solo (up high).

Well...I hope most people know this, but most of the time maple is the only fingerboard wood I've ever seen laquered.

From the title I'm gonna say white...

Wow....you go on a fast schedule. When I spray clear (nitro mind you, never worked with acrylics) I give 2 hours minimum, and only do 3 coats a day. Then I let it dry for at least two weeks before the final buff.

Heh...I guess I'm in, but not too sure it's actually gonna turn out good enough to post pics...lol.

Yeah, routers aren't insanely expensive, and they're definitely good to have around. I'd just buy a router. You could get a cheap one like Wes was talking about if you're just planning on a few projects, or invest in a nice one if you wanna do more.

I probably would've used lemon, but linseed is what I had so that's what I used. If you're gonna order some, I'd go with lemon.

I used linseed on mine after the scallop. I just finished it Thursday, but it seems to work well for me. I just wiped on, and then wiped off the excess quickly.

There is a download section on the main site, but you have to become a supporter, or win the guitar of the month competition. Could someone let us know how much it costs. Also, are the downloads already 1:1 scale? Thanks

also, I saw the tutorial on this, but what exactly can be used as material finish? just fabric?

not stable enough.man we need a frequently asked question section.

use alder..it has the same grain,is more stable,and is cheaper.

That's for sure

Very badass, but very hard, and you might want to ask alloyguitarist if you can use it first.