MrMuckle

Ah, I didn't even think about slippage. Recessing it should work. Thanks

I'm worried about the magnets interferring with those in the pickups. I've heard you shouldn't lean your guitar against your amp because the amp's magnets will weaken your pickup magnets over time. However that magnet in your amp is considerably larger than what I'd be putting in the pickguard.

I like the idea of putting a bevel on it first then doing the rest by hand. Thanks, RAD!

http://www.vinceg.net/GuitarProject/Intro.htm

Looks interesting. I'm curious about that neck being sandwiched between the top and bottom. Has anyone made this guitar following these steps? Did you run into any problems?

I've seen guys using magnets to attach the control cavity cover to the guitar body, but has anyone tried this with a strat-style pickguard? Can you use small enough magnets that won't interfere with the magnets in the pickups? Just trying to go for a clean look and thought this might be the way to go. What do you guys think?

Thanks, Mender!

What's the safest way to do a larger round over on a router table? Let's say you wanted a 1/2" roundover, would you use the 1/2 bit straightaway and start with it lowered and raise it to it's final height with multiple passes or would you start with a smaller bit, say 3/16" and work your way up to 1/2" with multiple bits in between?

But if I want a veneer to have this almost binding type of look when viewed from above (I'm talking about the thin black veneer NOT the burled top) I have to use a pretty big round over, right?

http://www.bassexchange.com/catalog/images...asses%20top.jpg

Sort of hi-jacking my own thread here, but if anyone has Martin Koch's "Building Electric Guitars", can you take a look at the router bit on page 97, figure 8. That large bit, second from the left that he describes as an oval bit, is that what you'd call a table edge bit? Has anyone used these before. Seems like that would be a comfortable shape as opposed to a regular roundover.

I'd like to hear your opinions on when a round over is just too big. Does anything more than 5/8" start to look odd? Guess it depends on the body shape, for sure, but curious in your thoughts.

Would mounting the Grizzly jig at an angle give you a greater radius? If you mounted the neck side an inch lower on the edge sander than specified by the manual, but kept the bridge side where it's supposed to go, would you now have a 9" and 16" compound radius?

Even with added UV inhibitor?

Actually, no. I'm not looking to yellow the nitro any quicker. I'm not sure I want any yellowing at all. I'm deciding on what finish I want on a first build and I'm leaning more towards poly with some type of UV inhibitor, though ten years isn't bad for nitro. Thanks for your replies, everyone.

Hey, does anyone have before and after pictures of a guitar that has yellowed over time with nitrocellulose lacquer? Preferably a natural finish over figured wood. I'm curious to see just how dramatic the change is. How quickly does nitro begin to yellow? Thanks!

Sorry, I meant a compound radius of 7.25" and 16" without having to build another jig. Thanks for your reply, though!

This Grizzly Radiusing Jig: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Fretboard-...ment-Only/G0577

...can do a compound radius from 10" to 16". Can this be modified to 7.25" ? I don't have the wherewithal to know if this is possible.

These guys didn't come up on my initial Google search. Thanks for the link!

OK, how 'bout this: Have any of you designed a bridge and/or tuners in a 3D program and then had them made overseas?

Do any of you know of someone making and selling alternatives to your standard bridges and tuners? I love the design of these tuners:

http://www.toone-townsend.com/treble.html

...but they are for headless guitars. I like the aesthetic of his bridges also, but they don't appear to be for sale yet. So, does anyone out there make and sell hardware of a different or unusual design? Your help would be greatly appreciated.

What's the greatest difference in radii one can have on a guitar? 7.25" is very comfy at the neck, but is 16" at the bridge overkill? I guess what I should be asking is, given a certain radius at the neck, what is the minimum you need at the bridge so you don't "fret out" when bending?

Sorry, I should have clarified that. Yes, I'm talking about wood and it's ability to bend down in that direction. I've seen plastic binding around a forearm contour and I don't mind the look. I wonder if Super Soft II would help.

Is this possible?