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This thing. It's agressive, noisy, but fast and controllable if you have a nice, light touch. Just a question: do you use this technique also for the curving of the top?

I like very very much your guitar! Good job!

Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that?

This is a nice question. It depends on what you like more. What I can suggest you is to consider the rounded part where you put the arm (in your picture is the part in the botton left corner): the curving you will do has to be "compatible" with that shape. Probably the best solution can be to eliminate that rounded part (by gluing a piece of wood) and then curve the body. I hope my answer will help you. Let me know

I see what you mean. The answer is yes, you can do it in that way but (there is always a "but" ) it depends on the curving shape you want: in my case, see picture 4, the technique you proposed cannot work because the file can only produce positive surfaces and in my case there is a concave section near to the border.

I'll publish as soon as possible the pictures of the building process of a fiber carbon guitar. The main problem is that when we did it the first time we didn't took any picture. Now my collegue Franco is helping it's apprentice (I don't know if this is the correct word) in building one so they are taking the pictures and I'll be able in the next weeks to publish them.

In picture #2 you can see the rought curving (the picture has been taken from the bridge of the guitar looking in the direction of the neck pocket). As you can see from the pictures I curved all the top with the chisel as near as possible to the final shape. The sand paper has been used only to get a smooth surface. Let me know if you have any other question ;-)

I bought the on that was simply cut (that costed about $35) and then I did the inlay using epoxy resin. Let me know if you have any question ;-)

Thank you! Taking pictures in the sun is a very good idea, I'll do it as soon as possible and I'll post the new pictures ;-)

There is no particular problem in the shape and size. In relation to the weight the main problem is that if the body is too light the headstock tends to fall down and the guitar will not be balanced. This is the reason why we put in the middle of the body a wood block. In other words I think that the body you have in mind can be made of fiber carbon without any particular problem

"Teach" is a big word, I can tell you how I did ;-) I first started by tracing a line with a pencil on the side delimiting the natural binding (in my case 7mm). This is a very important line because it defines the level you have to reach by removing the material. It's also very impotant that you, using the chisel, leave 1mm from that line: you will trim it with sand paper later in the carving process. Then I traced, on the top, the "flat zone". Here is a picture where you can see the rough curving with the chisel and you can also see the line I traced to delimit the "flat zone": Picture 1 You have to remove the wood in excess without going too near to the limit you traced (1mm). When you have reached a sufficient level of rough curving use the sand paper (I started with a 80) to complete the curving removing the famous 1mm of tollerance you left. I decided to do all by hand because if you use a sanding machine you don't have the sufficient control as you do it by hand. At the end, it is important that you remove all the sanding erregularities carefully: when you have a glossy surface you will notice all them as a kick in the stomac. To do this I used a tangental strong light source to identify all the points to be sanded. I hope my explanation will help you. There are also other techniques. Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4

Hello! I installed 2 output jacks instead of installing one stereo. On one jack I have the magnetic pickup output and on the second I have the piezo output. The wiring diagram is very simple: for the magnetic pu I used a 5 way rotary control (wired in a PRS-Style) with a volume and a tone, the piezo has been wired only with a volume control. Here are 2 links: http://www.lrbaggs.com --> for peizo http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH5R1101 ---> for PRS style rotary If you want you can wire a PRS-Style combination using a 5-way lever switch, here you can find more infos: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...gaswitches.html If you have any question, don't hesitate to ask me.

In order to reduce the tremble response, I replaced the 500k pots with 250k ones. Now it sounds really good. If anybody is interested I can put a link on some sound samples.

Hello! In the past I did it by my self (starting from a picture of a Jem) then I found on ebay a guy selling precut fretboards.

Very interesting, I like it! I bought a no name hardware. I'm not sure but I'm thinking to build a neck with the headstock and to anchor the strings in the places where usually you install the tuning machines because I did some "aesthetics test" on paper but I was not convinced... I'll let you know

Here is a picture: Here some more pictures: A detail of the fretboard The back Here is a sample of the sustainer installed on it: Sustainer demo In the next weeks I'll start a new project: a headless guitar with a fiber carbon neck (that I'll start building as soon as possible)

What I suggest you is to apply a couple of coats of laquer with a UV-filter because the epoxy resing tends to become yellow. Nice job!

The mold building process is very easy and cheap, you don't need any expensive equipment. Here a very very short description of the process for building a mold for a neck (just for example): 1. build a wood neck (it doesn't matter what kind of wood you use because it will be, probably, destroied in the process...) without fretboard 2. paint it; you need to have a mirror like surface 3. apply 3 coats of wax 4. screw it on a piece of plexiglass with the "fretboard" side down (on the plexiglass) 5. use the silicon to seal the contact point (plexi / neck) 6. apply mold resin on all the surface 7. reinforce the mold with fiber glass 8. unscrew the neck and extract it from the mold (probably it will break) At the end of this process you have a mold that can be used for lamination. The only equipment you need is a vacuum pump (for the lamination). The main problem is that the piece used for building the mold (in this case the neck), needs to be designed in order to be easily extracted from the mold and has to be easily laminated (smooth-cornered). I hope this explaination will help. If you want I can take some pictures of my last neck mold. Let me know

Wow! I really like it! Very very very nice!

Looking forward to the posting. Very interesting stuff. Its good to see some innovation. Regards, Robert In the next weeks I'll start the building of an headless guitar. In particular, when I'll receive the bridge and the nut (so I'll know the neck requirements), I'll build a fiber carbon neck for it. I noticed that your "personal photo" is an headless guitar, so I suppose you are experieced in building them, isn't it?

Thank you! The microballon-technique is very easy and looks good enough.

I forgot to tell you that I'm going to build a fiber carbon neck for it but I can't start until I receive the mechanics (bridge and, in particular, the head string locking nut).

Sorry, I forgot to tell you where to get the materials. You can find all you need in every models shop (these are materials that are frequently used in building RC airplane models)

At the moment I'm not sure but I think to use, like you, a bright green. The body will have a flamed maple top with a natural binding.

You are right. I usually use ebony back plates but in this case the only one I had was this. I probably will replace the back plate with an ebony one. I agree with you, it will look better. Thank you for your suggestion