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capu

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Posts posted by capu

  1. I completed the carbon neck: it's perfect for this guitar :D
    As you can see I was lucky: the guitar is stable (I tuned on Sun and tonight it's still in tune) and I like it's sound. I installed on it a set of PRS Dragon Pickups.
    As soon as I'll be able to record some sound samples I'll share them with you because I'm interested in your opinion.
    Here is the guitar nearly finished: I'm printing the spring cavity cover ;)

  2. I'm back with new pictures ;-)

    I finished the guitar body. I still need to complete the neck in order to complete the project.

    Anyway, I painted the body and I assembled all the parts except for the neck.

    I also installed in it 2 blue LEDs, here you can see how the body looks like in the dark:

    Here you can see the body completed:

    This is a detail of the "f" hole illuminated by the LEDs:

    This is the back of the guitar. The cavity covers are kept in place by magnets, you can see them in this picture (the 4 white dots on contouring the spring cavity are neodymium magnets):

    As soon as I've completed the neck I'll post new pictures ;-)

  3. I finally painted the guitar in metallic blue with a black base coat. I partially sanded it to create a worn effect. I applied a semigloss clear coat. It looks great but I'm not able to completely show it in the pictures:

    I completed the filling of the carbon neck and I leveled it. Now I'm ready to install a double action truss rod: due to the rigidity of the carbon fiber, there is the risk that the neck relief will be insufficient so the truss rod will be used to enhance it. Once installed the truss rod I'll glue the fretboard and test the stiffness: if the relief is ok I'll install the frets, if not I'll probably go on with the installation of the traditional neck I built.

  4. Looking around in my cellar I found 2 unfinished carbon fiber necks (remained from my carbon fiber guitar project I posted here a few years ago): I decided to give them a chanse, a carbon fiber neck would be the perfect neck for a guitar like this.

    Here is my original post:

    Here is a picture of the guitar I built at that time:

    Here is the neck I'm building:

    The brown material is made of phenolic micro-spheres mixed with resin: we will call it "filling material". The headstock has been reinforced where the tuners will be fixed with an high density version of this filling material. The rest of the filling of the headstock is made using balsa wood (very light) and low density filling material (lighter that the high density one). The section where there will be the nut and the neck heel will be routed to accomodate a truss rod. I'll post more pictures if someone is interested.

    • Like 1
  5. I received the guitar body and it's simply amazing!!!

    The print quality is fantastic!!!

    Here are some pictures:

    This is the body:

    Here you can see a detail of the internal gears. They are printed already assembled and they can spin:

    Here is a detail of the back cover hinge. As the internal gears it's printed already assembled and it is working perfectly (I had some doubts when I designed it ;-)):

    Here is a picture of how it will look when finished:

    I'll post more pictures as soon as my project is finished.

    • Like 3
  6. Hello, I'm back again.

    Here you can find the pictures of the neck I built.

    Here you can see the grain of the neck blank:

    Here is the fretboard gluing operation:

    The tuners holes have been drilled:

    Here you can see the profiling of the fretboard:

    Now it's the turn of the inlays:

    Now it's the turn of the headstock. First of all I routed it to the desired thickness than I used a cylindrical sander to smooth the connection to the fretboard:

    Neck profiling. I routed (using a base) the neck to the thickness then I fixed it to the bench and profiled it with a rasp:
    Frets installed:
    Side dots:
    Installation of the LSR nut:
    Now I'm waiting for the body to arrive. As soon as I receive it I'll post some pictures ;-)

  7. I recently started a new project: a 3D printed guitar body.

    Only the body will be 3D printed: the neck will be build in a traditional way with a piece of flamed maple and a rosewood fretboard.

    I completed the design phase and I just sent the body design to a 3D printing service. As soon as I receive the body I'll post some pictures of it.

    Here are a couple of pictures of the CAD project just to give you an idea:

    In the "f" holes there is a set of working gears that will be printed into the body without the need to manually assemble them:

    The cover of the cavity is connected to the body with an hinge. The hinge will be printed and will not need to be manually assempled:

    • Like 1
  8. Simply beautiful !! Congratulations !!

    I'd love to see some progress pics. How did you stain the top ?? Do you have any close-ups ??

    I'll post some pics in the next days. I stained the top using 2 colors: I initially stained with brown (mahogany brown) then when dry I washed it with a dump cloth removing as much as possible of the color. At he end, when dry, I applied the dark red (cherry). That's it. Let me know if you have any question ;-)

  9. I just finished my last project: a Neck-through guitar with a Semi-hollow body.

    Here are the specifications:

    Body

    · Semi-hollow body

    · Mahogany body with flamed maple top

    · Center line made of abalone

    · Finish: cherry

    Neck

    · Laminated Mahogany/Wenge

    · '59 Les

    Every feed-back is welcome ;-)

    · Indian rosewood fret board

    · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret

    · Neck-Through construction

    Pickups

    · PRS HFS and Vintage Bass

    · Fishman piezo bridge

    Wiring

    · PRS 5-way rotary

    · Passive piezo bridge activated pulling a knob

    Here are some pictures:

    nt1.jpg

    nt2.jpg

    nt3.jpg

    nt4.jpg

    nt5.jpg

    nt6.jpg

  10. I just finished my last project: a Neck-through guitar with a Semi-hollow body.

    Here are the specifications:

    Body

    · Semi-hollow body

    · Mahogany body with flamed maple top

    · Center line made of abalone

    · Finish: cherry

    Neck

    · Laminated Mahogany/Wenge

    · '59 Les

    Every feed-back is welcome ;-)

    · Indian rosewood fret board

    · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret

    · Neck-Through construction

    Pickups

    · PRS HFS and Vintage Bass

    Wiring

    · PRS 5-way rotary

    Here is a picture:

    project1.jpg

    Every feed-back is welcome ;-)

  11. heres a pic of it with the wings attached and roughed.

    soon i will carve the arm contour and then put on the 1/8" brazillian cherry top. after that i can then attach the bm flamemaple drop top.

    Can you tell me exacly how you bent the top? You wrote that you used water and heat, how exaclty? How glued it on the body, did you use only clamps?

    Thank you ;-)

    P.S.: very nice work, I like it!

  12. A friend asked me what techniques I usually use to stain.

    Here I'll report some consideration:

    I usually use a water based stain [...]. I think that is similar to the StewMac ones.

    In my Blue PRS copy (http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=30177&st=0&p=332072&#entry332072) the technique used was: I applied only ONE coat of a water base stain then (BEFORE IT WAS DRY) I wiped with a damp cloth: this technique enhances the flame.

    Remember that if the final color is too dark, the final result, when laqued, will be dark and you will see the flame only under the direct light.

    I did something similar with the tiger-eye color of this guitar: I first applied a single coat of brown stain (mahogany color) then before it was dry I wiped on it a coat of orange stain: this second coat just replaced (washing it) brown with the orange on the surface of the maple leaving the brown in the flame. The result is better than what you can see in the picture.

    On the other hand, I alway do some staining tests on scaps because each piece of maple react in a different way and the final result is always different.

    I hope this will help ;-)

  13. ....

    I didn't angled the top on mine, and I had to file down the top of the horns to make them look balanced. You can actually do it both ways, it's pretty much a matter of taste. The only functional consideration is that IF you angle the top, then you have to reference your neck angle to the top plane.

    Hope this explanation makes sense... Has anybody got any pictures to illustrate this ??

    My PRS copy has a flat top (parallel) like yours. In my opinion the easiest way is to do it flat because with angled neck you are not sure until you reach the end if all the elements (neck, pickups, BRIDGE,...) will be at the correct height ;-)

    To solve the problem of the horns I worked on the curving shape.

    You can see it here:

    http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry332072

  14. Do not hesitate with posting it.. I´m very interested in your work

    I'll be very pleased to do it ;-)

    I'm building it for a friend of mine and he is choosing the color, the pickups, the wiring and all the other details. When it will be ready I'll post all the pictures (the building ones are the same as the ones I posted for this guitar).

    :-D

  15. I build guitars as hobby.

    This is my last project, I started it from a scratch:

    sc1.jpg

    This guitar has been inspired by a Tom Anderson I saw some months ago.

    These are the specs:

    Body

    · Solid body

    · Mahogany with flamed maple top (curved)

    · Abalone center line inlay

    · Finish: tiger eye

    Neck

    · Mahogany

    · Thin D profile (Ibanez style)

    · Indian rosewood fret board

    · Compound Radius fretboard

    · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret

    · bold-on

    Pickups

    · Rails

    Wiring

    · 3 switch, one for each PU

    · 1 switch for coil split

    Here are some other pics:

    Image 1

    Image 2

    Image 3

    Image 4

    Image 5

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