capu
-
Posts
148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
News and Information
Tutorials
Product Reviews
Supplier Listings
Articles
Guitar Of The Month
Links and Resources
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Posts posted by capu
-
-
Yes we'd love to see the build pics....
Here are the pics:
If you have any question I'll be pleased to give you an answer :-)
-
Wow! That does look great ! ,,, looks much like this Godin Artisan ST that I have as far as overall shape, at least to me. Your's of course is much MUCH cooler.... I sure wish I could build one like it someday....
Wow, you are completely right the two guitars looks really similar! The inlay on the fretboard are similar too!
-
If someone is interested I can post some pictures of the building process :-)
-
....
There is one thing that I did that I think is going to work out really great! I used the pieces of the template that get removed for routing the pickup cavities and drilled two holes through each of them. After I had the template positioned just right I ran a few screw through the holes into the body wood. Now I can remove the template and cut the profile with the band saw and then put the template back exactly where it came from for routing! It works just like a puzzle. I don't know if anybody else has done it this way but I think it's pretty slick.
This is a very good idea. I do something similar with my templates: I don't cut out the pickup cavities so I use that area to firmly screw the template to the body blank in order to ensure that it will stay there when I profile the body with a guided router. The holes, in the next steps, are always my references (all the other templates are done to scree exactly in the same place --> an example is the neck pocket template).
I like PRSs (... I build one that I posted on this forum so if you have any question dont hesitate to ask), I'm sure you will do a wonderful work :-)
I'll stay tuned ;-)
-
Wow, that's beautiful.
I especially like the understated inlay at the 12th fret and the band of inlay between the sides of the bookmatched top!
Thank you!
The band of inlay between the sides of the top have been inspired by the PRS Santana.
If you have the pieces of abalone of the right measurements (in particular the width) it's really easy, you just need to have a router of the same width
and a Dremel. It took me 15 minutes (and it was the first time I did a job like that).
At the same time of the building this one I built another one completely in mahogany and here is the picture showing the routing of the line:
I fixed a piece of wood that I used to guide the Dremel.
-
Hello everybody!
I'm back again! This is my last project.
I started this project beeing inspired by a Tom Anderson I saw.
These are the specs:
Body
· Solid body
· Mahogany with flamed maple top (curved)
· Abalone center line inlay
· Finish: tiger eye
Neck
· Mahogany
· Thin D profile (Ibanez style)
· Indian rosewood fret board
· Compound Radius fretboard
· Abalone inlay at the 12th fret
· bold-on
Pickups
· Rails
Wiring
· 3 switch, one for each PU
· 1 sitch for coil split
Here are some other pics:
-
Hello Andy,
I'll be very pleased to answer to your questions. Let's start with these ones ;-)
I don't know exactly what kind of mahogany it is (I suppose african one), I bought a tree slice (as I love to call it): it was a piece of mahogany of 3m of length and 60cm of width. The finish is just oil: I didn't apply any other product on it a part on the fretboard that, due to the fact it is maple, it tends to become grey, I applied a couple of coats if sandind sealer.
On the mahogany I applied an oil that is a little redish and enhances the beatiful color of this wood. This is the link of the product I used: http://www.saratogasforza.com/ita/products...3-88BCD095D74F}
I suppose that you will not have any particular problem in finding a similar product: it is simply oil for mahogany.
The main advantage of this kind of finish is the sound: pure wood. I really love the sound of this guitar: full and warm.
Let me know if you have any other question.
Hey capu,I just love that mahogany/birdseye maple PRS you made, and I have a few questions about it. What type of mahogany is that? Is your finish just oil (i.e. no grain filling, staining, etc.)? What kind of oil did you use?
Beautiful guitars, by the way!
CMA
-
haha.. i wonder how many years mine will take.. i don't have ANY proper tools and it really expensive to buy them where i live.. also, any suggestions on how i can get rid of the arm rest area before arching the top? (the arm rest area is curved.. how am i supposed to shape a piece of wood to make it fit..??)
Note: pls excuse my lack of knowledge for.. everything.. i'm very inexperienced in woodworking..
The best will be to create a flat surface in the arm rest area or you can (with a router, with a planner or something else) create a kind of pocket in that you will glue a wook block.
-
Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S
Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that?
This thing. It's agressive, noisy, but fast and controllable if you have a nice, light touch.
Just a question: do you use this technique also for the curving of the top?
-
I like very very much your guitar! Good job!
-
I like my arches like #3, only with a little more recurve (scoop on the edge).
I tend to mark the edge thickness (the 7mm listed uptop) by 'simply' routing the flat edge all the way around the top, width depending on the carve shape. I actually feel I have the most control, particularly in figured woods, with an angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk. Sounds weird, but the speed actually makes it very effective at removing wood fast, and it doesn't take long to develop a 'feel' for it. That top was carved in about 15 minutes from a very blocky hunky of spruce, and only required a little bit of cleanup/fine-tuning, which was done with a violin maker's plane in the waist areas/sharp areas, then about 5 minutes with an orbital sander (120 grit paper), and a few more with a sanding block (cork) and 220 grit paper.
Fast, effective, controllable...only major problem is it's incredibly dusty/messy!
Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S
Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that?
-
i plan to mod an Ibanez RG Series shaped body to make it have an arched top. in your opinion (since you're far more experienced than i am..), how do you think i should arch it?
This is a nice question. It depends on what you like more.
What I can suggest you is to consider the rounded part where you put the arm (in your picture is the part in the botton left corner): the curving you will do has to be "compatible" with that shape. Probably the best solution can be to eliminate that rounded part (by gluing a piece of wood) and then curve the body.
I hope my answer will help you.
Let me know
-
would it be advisable arch the body using a wood file and filing it in 'stages' (gradually increasing the angle as you move closer to the edge) and finally sanding it?
example:
Note: i'm not sure if anyone will be able to understand that pic, but thats the best i can do using microsoft paint..
I see what you mean. The answer is yes, you can do it in that way but (there is always a "but"
) it depends on the curving shape you want: in my case, see picture 4, the technique you proposed cannot work because the file can only produce positive surfaces and in my case there is a concave section near to the border. -
Any chance of you explaining how to make a CF guitar?? Your site only has the wood one's in build format.
I'll publish as soon as possible the pictures of the building process of a fiber carbon guitar. The main problem is that when we did it the first time we didn't took any picture. Now my collegue Franco is helping it's apprentice (I don't know if this is the correct word) in building one so they are taking the pictures and I'll be able in the next weeks to publish them.
-
that really helped! thx, capu! but one more question, when you carved the body (between the edges and flat zone) using a chisel, did u carve it flat (not curved) first and then contuored it (to make it curved) with sandpaper or what?
In picture #2 you can see the rought curving (the picture has been taken from the bridge of the guitar looking in the direction of the neck pocket). As you can see from the pictures I curved all the top with the chisel as near as possible to the final shape. The sand paper has been used only to get a smooth surface.
Let me know if you have any other question ;-)
-
I saw that guy there too. Did you get the already inlaid into the precut fretboard? Cause that's like $80+ ish)
Anyways I wanted to see how it looked in a finished guitar before i purchased one. I think it looks great. Good job on the axe.
I bought the on that was simply cut (that costed about $35) and then I did the inlay using epoxy resin. Let me know if you have any question ;-)
-
Ya know Capu, I gotta say that is amazing! The texture, the shape, the color, that couch is simply amazing!
Oh this thread is about the guitar,lol, I really like the CF look and how clean the build is. When you get a chance see if you can get some more pics out in the sun. Many members have displayed their guitars outside laying in some grass or near a tree and for some reason they always look so nice displayed like that, it might also show off your work better like the one with the black flame might "pop" more outside as well as the CF guitar. Anyhow, great build, all of them, your work is very nice, they never look too busy, yet they have a lot of great features. Keep them coming and lots of pics please! J
Thank you!
Taking pictures in the sun is a very good idea, I'll do it as soon as possible and I'll post the new pictures ;-)
-
Capu,
I have an idea for a project body. It is my own design. It looks like a cross between a Gibson Explorer and a Jackson Randy Rhodes.
My main concern is strength. It needs to be very strong since the shape is "pointy" and thin in many areas. Also concerned about weight, I don't want a 10-15 lbs guitar hanging on me.
Can you do a carbon fiber guitar in any shape and size?
There is no particular problem in the shape and size.
In relation to the weight the main problem is that if the body is too light the headstock tends to fall down and the guitar will not be balanced. This is the reason why we put in the middle of the body a wood block.
In other words I think that the body you have in mind can be made of fiber carbon without any particular problem
-
can you pls teach me how you arched the top so perfectly?
"Teach" is a big word, I can tell you how I did ;-)
I first started by tracing a line with a pencil on the side delimiting the natural binding (in my case 7mm). This is a very important line because it defines the level you have to reach by removing the material. It's also very impotant that you, using the chisel, leave 1mm from that line: you will trim it with sand paper later in the carving process.
Then I traced, on the top, the "flat zone".
Here is a picture where you can see the rough curving with the chisel and you can also see the line I traced to delimit the "flat zone":
You have to remove the wood in excess without going too near to the limit you traced (1mm). When you have reached a sufficient level of rough curving use the sand paper (I started with a 80) to complete the curving removing the famous 1mm of tollerance you left. I decided to do all by hand because if you use a sanding machine you don't have the sufficient control as you do it by hand.
At the end, it is important that you remove all the sanding erregularities carefully: when you have a glossy surface you will notice all them as a kick in the stomac. To do this I used a tangental strong light source to identify all the points to be sanded.
I hope my explanation will help you.
There are also other techniques.
-
What is the purpose of the two output jacks? Is there a different tone you can have for the second one with how you wired it? Do you have a wiring diagram of what you did? Great job on the build by the way, its making me want to do my maple top black too!
Hello!
I installed 2 output jacks instead of installing one stereo. On one jack I have the magnetic pickup output and on the second I have the piezo output.
The wiring diagram is very simple: for the magnetic pu I used a 5 way rotary control (wired in a PRS-Style) with a volume and a tone, the piezo has been wired only with a volume control.
Here are 2 links:
http://www.lrbaggs.com --> for peizo
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH5R1101 ---> for PRS style rotary
If you want you can wire a PRS-Style combination using a 5-way lever switch, here you can find more infos:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...gaswitches.html
If you have any question, don't hesitate to ask me.
-
In order to reduce the tremble response, I replaced the 500k pots with 250k ones.
Now it sounds really good.
If anybody is interested I can put a link on some sound samples.
-
quick question for Capu
Did you cut the vine of life inlay yourself and then inlay it or did you buy a precut one and just inlay it yourself or did you just but the fretboard with the vine of life inlay in it already?
Hello!
In the past I did it by my self (starting from a picture of a Jem) then I found on ebay a guy selling precut fretboards.
-
Hi Salvatore! The avatar is a pic of my very first guitar build based on the Klein Electric Guitar. Click the link to see more on my first guitar project. I did not make the neck for this first one - instead focusing on the body. A neck build is in the near future I suspect.
Meanwhile, I'm looking forward to your headless design. What hardware are you using for the bridge and nut?
Regards,
Robert
Very interesting, I like it!
I bought a no name hardware. I'm not sure but I'm thinking to build a neck with the headstock and to anchor the strings in the places where usually you install the tuning machines because I did some "aesthetics test" on paper but I was not convinced... I'll let you know
-
hey psw i was following that build of the guitar u breifly posted there but i missed the end resulf can u post up some i loved th finish
Here is a picture:
Here some more pictures:
Here is a sample of the sustainer installed on it:
In the next weeks I'll start a new project: a headless guitar with a fiber carbon neck (that I'll start building as soon as possible)
Tom Anderson Inspired Guitar
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Thank you all :-)
To do the curving I used a rounded router bit, you can see the result here:
Curving, first step
Then I used the sand paper to make it smoother:
Curving, sanded
I'll post a picture of the guide I applied on the router to do this job, stay tuned;-)