theodoropoulos

to be honest the experience of the router was a bit terrible!!..I was always thinking???what if something happens??? and HAPPEND...after a tearout the spinning router bit went off the router and hitted the wall....Fortunatelly i wasnt there.....That happened because i had not tightened it too much..... The bit was strong enough and wasnt kind with the wood.....

i think this is the most helpfull info..no magic wand...just like the condom....the safe way by sanding @sam c very interesting ,but besides the understanding of the tearout i cannot be safe before a tearout occurs...Just if it happens i will go the opposite direction.. problem is to have no tearouts at all.... no magic wand....

Umm..yes...anyone can. ok ....you are correct .. in a river we know the direction but we dont know if the water runs upwards or downwards....that is what i mean.. in the wood we see the river but i dont see the flow...can you see it and help me???or that doesnt matter? btw this is my wood

can anyone predict the grain direction only by sight???i dont think so...unless a small tearout happens i cannot understand the direction...i thank you for those infos i will try them right now...BUT i had an idea... instead of a router bit ,how would it be to use this???? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_...obo-Sander.html which can copy a pattern....

@Buter well,in the video i did not understand how does he know the grain direction in arch so he routes half way clockwise and the rest anticlock wise...Or does he do it random?? Tha t makes no sense.why the grain change direction in the middle of the way,or is it just a method??? @MUzz In the photo the wood outside the matrix is more than 1.5 mm as i can see... i can not still understand how can prevent the tearout in a routertable..As far as a simple distance concerns..Not corners...I would appreciate if you explained in a few words(forgive me but i cannot "catch"some words in Engish..)

Sanding is not as accurate as routing..but 100% safe...I will think about it seriously...but please tell me about the correct direction.Is there any way to predict it before the accident??? besides in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wB6l-bssWzc at the 5:51 when the routing beginns the woods is cut like butter...unlike mine...which resembled like stone....

I am very sad today cause i had many accidents with my router...First I cut the wood with a bandsaw right off the pencil line,and routed using a template copying the matrix..But the elm i used was very very strong and had 2-3 tear off ...i am deeply dissapoined and dont know where i went wrong....The only which i can think is that in some point the router had to cut 3-4 mm distance to meet the template of a wood which was 4 cm deep...was that tooo much?????

i am talking about the black accentuated grain lines underneath....i made a test today and works pretty well!! so i am going to put 2-3 coats of black grain filler,sand off and put the colors above...but i am wondering if i could fill the pores with black epoxy for stronger black color...

this is my elm...... my qestion was if the elm has open pores for filling, to be honest.....

could i achieve this result with pore filling in ELM?? http://www.prsguitars.com/25thswampashspecialnf/index.php

after some experiments i noticed that hardwoods like rosewood had this bell like ring in contrast with softer woods...I tried to hear this tone by tapping mahogany and cherry...the sustain was almost zero....do dimensions of the wood play rolle in tapping??

If two woods tap well separately, no, that does not mean they will combine well. Look at it this way. You could tap some hard maple that sounds good, then tap some ebony for a fretboard, and then some birdeyes maple for the neck. They may all tap great. But you're gunna end up with one BRIGHT guitar. Tapping is not a tell-all. It's a point in the right direction that that piece of wood is nice. As for your sound transfer question. Yes, sound travels more effectively ALONG grain. This is why Uli Teuffel is convinced you need at least one section of nice, long, straight, uninterrupted grain in your designs. You can see this obviously in the birdfish, but it also shows itself in his other designs, especially the Tesla IMO. That said, this has little to do with quartersawn vs. flatsawn. In both cases you can have long, continuous grain. What I talked about with tapping quilted maple and plain maple illustrates this better. The quilt maple is just RIDDLED with runout (ie: lots of short, interrupted grain) while the plain is not. That is a better way to think of it. THAT SAID, there are OTHER reasons to use quartered wood for acoustics. It's usually more dimensionally stable (and predictable when it does change with humidity), is less prone to warp with water (important for bending), etc. So yes, quartered wood I would say is better for acoustics, but it's not a question of sound transfer, more of structure. Chris Edit: The correct place to hold it is at it's vibrational nodes. These are places that remain relatively neutral when vibrating and therefore your fingers being there does little to inhibit vibration. You'll know when you're holding it in the right place However, a good place to start is at 1/3rd the length down, 1/3rd the width in. a big thanx !! all those are worthy info!!

well i see that experience is the key here,something i dont have and obvisously is difficult to be tought.But i wiil study the documents... So it's a bit difficult to distinguish a "correct tapping tone" from a "bad".... But i that it depends from where you hold the wood...If you hold it from wrong place it may be muted and not bell loud although the wood is good... How should i hold correctly a simple piece of wood?

Thanx for the response !! my questions is about the matching.....if 2 woods ring well separetly will they be combined well???? and a second question is about the grains...when sound travels along the grains sounds different than when not... so,should i use only quartersawn wood for better accoustcis?? thanx again!!

This is a major issue for wood choosing among many pieces...but could anyone help me in what to look for when i tap on a wood??? the sustain?the colour of the sound?? what?? and the most importan WHEN MUST I NOT USE A PIECE OF WOOD....

this is my fun project... i had a neck an mood for experiment.... just for fun.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXPHzx-PEAw

Yeah, that's basically what I'm saying. It worked well on the poly finish on this Jag neck anyway. well yesterday i got an idea about your post!! what if we wax the glossy area we wanna change to mat?? wax and polish...

hi if you like it vote for my entry http://www.guitaridol.tv/video/624# btw i play with my self made guitar!!

but the areas which are supposed to be glued will be tape-covered so they will be ready to accept wood glue...Besides i f i seal it and then use epoxy,will epoxy work well over a sealed area???i think it will but it's a bit risky.. btw for neck joint many prefer hide glues,other titebond but few people use epoxy because its very hard and does not "feel" the vibrations...so it would be a bit dead...what is your opinion???

you mean that mat finish=woolsteel sanded gloss finish if i understood correct?

ok,i understand the philosophy!! thank you all!

THAT'S WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!! THAT'S WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!! btw the headplate is usually oiled finished in oil finished necks or gloss if the body is glossy?? i mean i need an opinion...

thank you very much ! i am not a professional so i do things with the certain way.....but for my case i wanted to finish with poly the body and oil or finish with mat nitro the neck.So, having them glued would be a small problem...so i thought gluing them after separate finish/oiling....That's why i wanted to know if this way is first mentioned or other people have tried it.. thanks for the interest

of course...but my question is just if people do it this way,or is it anorthodox!!

A SIMPLE QUESTION...has anybody glued a finished body with a finished neck??? i mean that is it usual to glue and then finish the complete quitar.... could the excess of an epoxy glue damage the finish??