theodoropoulos

i am afraid that those oils dont protect from moisture and hand sweat..Besides i think i should apply oil in very short times...So my mind goes to satin poly/water finish...

Would the wood be more protected ?Does it have the same smooth feeling as oil finishes???

Fingerboard or back of neck?

Some like tru-oil, for the fingerboard, I'm a fan of that or linseed. For the back, tung oil/shellac come to mind.

True shellac is not really an oil, but a fav.

for the back of the neck...How about danish?

Which kind oil finish would you suggest for the neck?? i search for a good protection from moisture and hand sweat..

is linseed oil enough or should i add tru-oil??

OK, it was just an (un)educated guess to what looked similar to me and could be done.

It it were laser etched, than I would assume every one would have the exact same figuring to it, yes?

So if we saw two examples, the 'gatoring' texture would be identical on them then?

i think you are particulary right.I am trying now to find some photos in internet and have found one fantastic.

But they could use the same texture for example and put the guitar in different zero point to start cutting.

So perhaps same texture ,different putted texture.But the factory is very difficult to have only one texture sample.Do

not know...Let see....

interesting point of view....

i agree....why keepig as secret if it was vinyl.?.Besides it LOOKS CARVED on wood

at last i found this

Bolero USA

Crocodile

- Mahogany Body with Mah Set Neck

- Graded Carved Maple Top, lasered

Crocodile Top

- DBZ Exclusive Pick-Ups and Stop Tail

- Gold Hardware

List Price $6220.99 Our Price:$3999

Available Colors:

Crocodile

Optional : EMG pickups 81/85

in http://www.carlinoguitars.com/DBZguitars.html

so.....LASER!!!!!!!!!!!

There is no way anyone would use metal that thick. Etching is a shallow process on metal or glass (not wood )so I have no idea why that was brought up.

If its laser cut which is most likely the fastest way to do it, it could be black from the laser. But I dont think they did use one. I would suspect it is just a CNC router period. Its not a fine cut by any measure. The body is cut on the CNC why would anyone bother moving it to a second machine like a laser. Most of these machines have tool changers so it can easly change to a different bit on the fly without missng a step. Sure it adds additiional time to the process but I am sure they charge more.

You could do it by hand as chris said but it will take awhile. But much cheaper than a CNC machine

I agree ..but the details can not be achieved by hand..you know in this skin there is ...something random..in texture...difficult by hand...if not designed before..

I think it is timber, stained black as Wez said to get in all the highs and lows and then sanded back, obviously it will only wear down the high spots. On another inspection the back is black so maybe the whole thing got painted black and then sanded back. What do you mean by metal paintings?

this piece of art is wood sprayed with metal painting(copper)

http://www.scottwalkerguitars.com/Fathmed.html

do you guys think that the material painted is wood or is it wood covered by metal paintings in order to achieve

patina like (tan ) results??

from the close up pics of where the side meets the top it looks like they carved it in the wood. If its not real skin it might be cnc engraved? Can't really tell, but it does look good, I expected something way cheesier.

On first glimpse i thought the same thing. Etched or cnc routed, its hard to say but they have done a really good job on it. I think Wez could be on the money to with the dye black sand back the high spots call.

can anybody explain how can we make etching to make such a texture?

by reading very carefully they refer something about ETCHING....

i have no idea how will this be achieved...anybody?

i was amazed by this guitar

http://dbzguitars.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=988

any idea how the hell is made this texture?

My problem is that i want to spray liquid copper or iron and the Sculpt Nouveaou suggests HVLP spray gun in 70-90 psi...My question is why must i buy this special gun?

Because the density of liquid copper is much bigger than for example a laquer?Is this HVLP special for these densities?

4:18 time refering of the video

I have no idea if i can adjust an HVLP spray gun to a normal compressor or do i nead a special or airless...

thank you

I wanted to ask how do you make angle in pots in order to have the pots vertical to the carved top and not to the base of the guitar....

I show a method in a link .tell me your opinion...

http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?page_id=30

(Nov 19 2004, 12:25 AM)

my problem is if the thinner (poly/nitro/water) dissolves the ink of the written logo...How can i be sure it won't?

i am in search for this issue for a long time but i cant find the answer....

Where from can i buy stickers to print my logo there and put it in the peghead...

Any dealer in interner??Sorry if is silly question but it's in my mind..

thank you for responce.What kind of finish do you use over those surfaces?waterbased?nitro?poly?

i wanted to paint the body of a guitar to look like rust ...can anybody help me to achieve that result ?

this kind of guitar i have in mind...

http://www.scottwalkerguitars.com/Fath1.html

thank you

thank you!!!!

in the official site of Ibanez there are such infos about widths.But in Strat's there are not..

I am planning to use a tremolo with 5.631 cm string spacing http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...b=Specs#details

My question is:

for a 25.5" scale ,is the width 5.8 cm at the 24th fret ,enough?

Are you saying the action is lower above the 7th fret, as in the neck has a serious dip right at that area or something?

Like Our Souls said, put a straight edge on it, that's the only way you're going to figure out what it's doing.

thanx guys..i'll figure out!!

Did you have to tighten your truss rod a lot to get it where you have it ? If so , try a lighter gauge of string or a detuned setting to get less string tension.... I'm just guessing - it's hard not being able to see it.

Check it with a straight edge if possible , that'll tell you more than I can .

it has already #9 gauge strings.I have tigheted the truss rod already but is comes upwards in the middle of the fretboard not at the area of the 1 string...

Have you heard it again in the past such a situation?

I have a problem with my Lp.The distance "string-fretboard" in the 7th fret seems high in the 1 string although i have set the action in the bridge and the nut very low.This doesn't occur in the other srings so much especially in the 6th (low E)

.Is it possible to twist the neck such a way (only in one part of the neck) and what is the remedy?I think i should use 2 carbon fibre left and right of the truss rod next time....

I am planning to use poly over waterbased grainfiller and waterbased sealer.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...ain_Filler.html

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...ing_Sealer.html

Is there any compatibility problem with poly?