theodoropoulos

1) fret as normal, then mask, then scallop ... if your hittign the frets you just need to be more careful

2)i really like a rat tail file for most of the frets - not so good near the nut but then i prefer partial scallop jobs so generally only past the 12th fret anyway, and the file is pretty perfect for these. then its sanding, sanding and more sanding

3)i generally do it by eye, but if in doubt use a dremel on a router base with a round nose bit to set your lowest point and work from there

4)as long as you know how deep your scallops are it can be before or after. if its before they are a good depth guide, but also a rick if you go too low.

also, dont scallop right up to the fret - i like it close but you still need a good deal of flat area to help with future refrets

thank you so much for replying!!!

i have read many things about cherry .Some say its subsitute for alder,other say for mahogany.For my stratocaster i have no alder.Should i use cherry,for same tonal qualities as alder???

thank you again for your time

i am planning a scalloped fretboard but after some tests i have these questions:

1)By masking the frets it also very easy to damage them.I thought something.Pehaps installing temporary frets with the sides cut off

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Fretting/Fret_Barber.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=14462

(with this tool) in order to shape the scalloped neck and then removing them and installing the original..What is you opinion??

2)which tools do you use for scalloping??my problem is the different tools i must use for different sizes..i uses dremmel ,smalll rasp..

3)how do you maintain the depth in the whole fretboard???i thought of making a slot with a saw with standard depth

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Fretting/Fret_Slotting_Saw_System.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1366

.Just to see the target depth...What do you think???

4)the dots installation is before or after the scalloping??

thank you in advance!!

Only way to really find out is to give it a shot. If it ends up not sounding the way you want, building a new body is not the end of the world. I doubt too many people around here have made a body of aged mulberry, and any that have, probably have not made the same guitar out of another wood to compare tonal differences with. I say go for it.

ur right!!

Some might argue but really, the wood has very little to do with the final tone. Wood can affect sustain but really, that's minimal. Electronics are more important in a solid body than the actual wood. But again, some might and likely will argue with this....

this is a whole discussion issue!!i think the truth is somewhere in the middle!

Hi!!

i am planning my new strat and have in mind Yngie Malmsteen model.On the other side i have no alder for body but i have some pieces of aged mullbery.I was wondering if i achieve the wanted tone ,by using this wood.I have some other alternatives such as sycamore,cherry,padauk.

About the neck i am planning to use maple...What is your opinion??have you ever worked a strat whith any of those woods???Any other probable alternative????

+1

i would like to express my opinion....my guitar "Frozen Queen" is part of this voting.No matter the result ,i am verry happy to see other's people work,get inspiration and progress.The guitars are not simple guitars..the are our souls,they express our deeper love for wood,and are not souless.If they were from factory they would have nothing to "speak"..now they all "speak",and show the artist deeper soul...

We must all know that all guitars hide endless days of work and every judjing attempt is not correct..

i personally wana thank once again every luthier here for the inspiration they offer...the simpler detail in a guitar can give me the flame to take my next guitar to the next level..

good luck to everybody!!!!

this guitar "Frozen Queen" has to add something which is my opinion is different..The body is made of Cedar of Lebanon over 250 years old,something that adds to the tone warmness and more bass..The neck is made of aged mulberry in which 2 carbonfibers are added besides the 2 ways truss rod,something that gives the neck stability.There are some different things from classic tele ,such as the 22 frets ,the wenge fretboard and the graphit nut...and perhaps the cuts in the pickguard...Generally this guitar has woods from my country..CRETE,which i love...traditinal feeling in a frozen tone...At last the finish is Nitro...

here is the contsruction archive

http://s939.photobucket.com/albums/ad236/theodoropoulos/Tele/

thank you guys so much....i think this switch is much more complicated than push -pull or mini toggle...i will examone them both to see what is more worthy!!!

wow..thank you very much!!

i 'll study them right now!!i think mini toggles are more easy to access...

its easiest to do this with a normal 3-way and two mini-toggles or push/pulls

which would also give you neck single coil & bridge humbucker and bridge single coil & neck humbucker. i also find it a bit easier to know which coils are active, which is often a problem on rotary switches

if you dont want those extra settings you can use one mini-toggle or push pull as a master coil split or you could use the free-way switch from stew-mac as you pickup selector which offers you the 6 positions you want as standard

well i like to experiment in every project.my last project had 2 push/pull and now i wanted something different.i guess you are right about active coils..taht would be a problem..

what is this free-way switch???and do you have any diagram with mini-toggle??

thanks!!

i intend to use 2 humbuckers and want the following positions:

1)bridge humbucker

2)bridge single coil

3)bridge +neck humbucker

4)bridge+neck single coil

5)neck single coil

6)neck humbucker

i wanted to use the stewmac 6way rotary switch but i have no wiring diagram.My alternative is to use

mini switches on/on or similar...I have also no diagramms...any help would be usefull

could anybody inform me about the total width of the mahogany and the maple in a PRS guitar..i read abou 4.8 cm total width..is it correct?

i am also interested in buliding a Schechter Loomis guitar and i am looking about the total body width...

thank you in advance!!

There aren't any drawings that I am aware of. It's mostly a feel-as-you-go type of thing. Generally you will have a 1/2" carve depth from center to edge. Others with more experience will chime in later, I'm sure.

ok,that's is what i am thinking of...free carving and improvisation...thanks...

i am planning a prs guitar but i need the exact depths,distances and generally the whole thing.. i can see from other projects but i would like a more accurate drawing...any help would be appreciated...

thank you guys......does it take dual truss rod or only the simple one way???

i am interested to know where could i find such a mechanism!!

This is my last creation called "Golden Waves" guitar....by Dimis Guitars

it has some unique wood such as elm as body,burl maple top,cocobolo ftretboard and indian rosewood neck..

here is an audio sample

"GOLDEN WAVES" AUDIO SAMPLE

I have tried many ways to finish my Gibson style guitar but i have problems with gravity..I hang my guitar from ceiling vertical but i think

i need a new wat to make my finish...i need to hold it horizontal for at least 2-3 minutes to evaporate and be less fluid...How do you spray

your finishes???just need to know other aspects....thank you ina advance!!

It depends on the gaps. If they are very large, start by filling them locally. If they are very shallow, then you can coat the top and sand back.

is there any danger if with local sanding ,the neighborhood becomes not uniform??

please i need this info:Should i cover all the surface of a top with epoxy to fill the gabs,or just locally the gaps???

thanx in advance!

thanx man!!!!!

thanx man!!!!!

thanks !1

i cannot see the pic from ABM single...Is it appropriate for the multiscale or does it need any extra proccess???