wizardfire

You sure don't sound like a 60 year old man.

So...what is a 60 yr old supposed to sound like?

You are only as old as you feel, and right now I feel about 90 yrs old, or is it 9 yrs old? !

Advert - TITEBOND...The world's best adhesive! Sticks better than sh*t to a blanket!

Now I'm really showing my age!...Some of you youngsters won't know what a blanket is!

Let's run that again:

Advert - TITEBOND...The world's best adhesive! Sticks better than sh*t to a duvet!

WizardFire

Hey wizard drongo,

Try searching for Titebond on the net. That's how I found a stockist in Cambridge. I just used some Titebond for bonding some parts of a bench that I am building and it was fine! I just love Titebond! The world's best glue! I hope that gets DRak off my back!

I have used 'ordinary PVA for years and if you have something decent like Evostick Resin W it will be perfect. Don't buy cheap, unbranded PVA though.

Sorry Drak...I hope I'm not offending your Holliness by dishing out advice, unworthy as I am!

By the way drongo, I've taught in Mildenhall and just the other side of Bury, but never in Haverhill. Unlikely our paths ever crossed. I know Colin Bailey who teaches D & T at Parkway Middle in Haverhill. Know him?

WizardFire

OK! OK! Yes I admit I am a grumpy old man! But my mind is still as open and creative as it was many years ago! I really think that this thread has come to a rather sticky end, so time to roll a joint and take that pastey look off of my face. I must learn to adhere to the rules more, especially on this forum where there is a danger of me becoming unstuck. Perhaps we need to join together more and develop a closer bond and cement our friendship!

'nuff said, I feel!

Time to draw it to a close?

Wizardfire

To blame, condemn, and crucify w/o a fair trial is unjust and shows an unreasonable attitude to learning the trade of building good guitars. No good thing will come of this kind of attitude I tell you the truth.

I would like to see a pic of this repaired laminated top guitar and understand what your application procedure was exactly before condemning Titebond to Eternal Hellfire.

I would also like to read the original thread for questionable usage of terminology, such as possibly substituting the word laminate for veneer or something along those lines, to be sure we are all talking about apples and not you saying apples and actually meaning paranormal nebulizers.

There is no good or bad, right or wrong, there is only knowledge ...and Kabuki.

Well, Drak....I have never read such a load of sanctimonious piffle in all of my 60 years on this planet! I don't think I have heard the likes on any of the other planets I have lived on either. Some of you people on this site are so far up your own your own fundaments, it's a wonder you don't drown in your own efluent! Please don't use such a high handed tone with me! I am so sorry that I don't use the correct terminology for your highness. What the f*ck is wrong with the use of 'veneer' when describing veneer?

Just for the record....I have been a teacher of Design and Technology for 40 years now and have taught thousands of youngsters to create and realise high quality artefacts in wood, metal and plastic.

All I was doing was voicing an opinion, based on an experience, with a new type of glue ( sorry, should I say 'adhesive' here? ...Or perhaps 'facilitator of the state of two materials becoming permanently conjoined?) I have obviously learnt from the experience and realise that the veneer / laminate that I used, mouingue, was extremely open grained and porus enough to allow seepage. As for the advice about wiping the glue off with a wet rag...well there's a new idea! I am 60 years old and have learnt some new! (NOT). I would love someone to tell me how to wipe the excess glue off when it the veneer/laminate is clamped solidly to the guitar body! But no doubt you 'experts' will have a condescending answer for that!

I also humbly apologise for blaspheming aginst the Holly Titebond, but am I, a heathen and an unbeliever, not worthy to utter it's name?

Just to finish here are some photos of the finished guitar. I suppose you will find fault with this too!

Come on! Youv'e got to laugh at yourself! ( or cry)

Wizardfire

you have to used tite bond original that has been stated on this site oh about 35,987 times.

Thanks for the prompt Tim37...I think you will find that the total count is actually 35,985....and yes, I did use Titebond Original! Anyone want to buy a nearly full bottle of the stuff.

Wizardfire

Hello,

I was advised on this site to use Titebond to fix a laminate front to a guitar. All went well until it came to staining. Even though I sanded the whole guitar with great care, every little spec of remaining Titebond has resisted the stain resulting in an appalling finish. I will not be using Titebond , ever again, but will revert to good old PVA.

Wizardfire

Not a happy man!

I found this supplier of coloured dyes in the UK:

Chestnut Products

They have a suppliers list, and they stock PURPLE!

WizardFire

I am in the same boat....looking for a UK supplier of decent dyes ( looking for purple) to finish my son's Jackson Rhoads, which I have stripped down. I mentioned in another thread that he had painted a Union Jack on the front. It now has a smart new book matched veneer front in flamed Mouingue. I want to complete the job with a sunburst purple finish! The top coats will be Danish Oil which gives a lovely semi gloss , natural finish. I used that on a 'Buzzard' style bass that I made from Lacewood. Lovely wood...but hard as concrete to carve into shape...even on a large bandsaw!

So ...PURPLE dye in UK , please!

Tried Movac thanks. No purple that I could see.

Thanks

WizardFire

The way the Giger graphics are applied varies:

Both the RGTHRG2 and the SRXHG1 are descibed as Giger 'graphics' which could imply that they are printed on ( most likely ) as Woodenspoke said.

The SHRG1Z S model features a metal-coated Ibanez S body engraved with Giger's Biomechanical Matrix.

I seriously doubt whether a laser cutter could be used on wood. However, a metal fronted guitar may be a different matter. I don't know enough about laser cutters really.

Wizardfire

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=42613

Maybe easier to read this post than read the same old half baked answers. then maybe you will understand why Titebond Original is the glue you need.

Many thanks for this Woodenspoke! I had already made the decision and had to do a little searching to find a stockist in the arear where I live in the UK. I found one and bought the Titebond Original. I have already veneered the headstock and all is fine. Titebond is a new product to me. Up until now I have just used a decent PVA and been happy with that. However, having read the excellent review I will certainly use it in the future for any work with wood.

Cheers

Wizardfire

I have seen on this site that Titebond 2 is the adhesive to use for sticking veneer to the front of a guitar. Is this to be recommended? Also, what is the difference between Titebond and Titebond 2?

WizardFire

Sorry about the spelling! Rhodes!.....and the Union Jack really was a bit of a mess sprayed on using pearlescent paint and not too well masked either! I promise you that my renovation will be an improvement!

WizardFire

Hello,

I have just found this forum. It looks pretty good to me!

I have built a few guitars from scratch. However, my present project is renovating a Jackson Randy Rhoads. This belongs to my son, who decided some years ago to paint a Union Jack on the front!

It took me some time to strip all of the paint off, down to the bare wood. I was looking for some nice book matched flamed maple veneer for the front. However, I came across some beautiful and quite strikingly flamed Mouingue. That arrived today, and is just stunning!

I am going to start planning the arrangement and then get it glued to the front.

I have a notion to finish it in a sunburst purple.

WizardFire