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olyen

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Posts posted by olyen

  1. What are you saying? Don't suggest alternatives because its not the right language?

    No, not at all, I just like to debate topics occasionally, nothing wrong with a little debate once in awhile is there?

    :D:D

    You are correct on all counts, a scraper is a good way to do it also. B)

    Can you spray nitro over a tung oil finish? is that what you said before? cause i have a bas that i would like to refinish butsomewhere i read that once you put oil in the wood you cant spray anything else I have the same problem with a nice top that i left natural but it looks too plain,i would like to strip and spray a light shade of amber,i just thought i might get fisheye or stuf like that cause of the oil.What do you think?

  2. what type of fin. is that? what colors/method did you use on the lp? very nice on both.

    that is behlen lacquer for instr.the color I applied on both was honey amber with a bit of brown to darken it a bit and the sanded back and just a clearer amber,after that a little brown and red for the sunburst,i dont really know much about this, mostly tint the lacquer for the sunburst always starting with a clear shade and then darkening it up till im happy with the color ,i think its safer that way,here s some progress pics ,not much but something,comments are all welcome.

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS145.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...sGuitars011.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...sGuitars003.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS002.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS005.jpg

  3. If this is your first neck (except for the other one) then it's probably not worth using the decent wood incase it all goes a bit Pete Tong again.

    it s not the first ,i ve built a couple already, it was just a miscalculation in the measuring and that was it,here s some pics of what i m working on and previous works.

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture017.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture255.jpg

  4. triple post? :D

    they are expensive for one,but then again that s probably not a valid excuse since i should spend money if i want it good ,but also I havent done it before and I ve heard some people say it s more likely to get dead spots in you neck or something like that ,I wouldnt know how true that is ,but i just dont feel very tempted to use them unless i m assured that i need to,if it makes any sense.

  5. that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use, do you think if I keep it on the beefy side ,i wouldnt need the reinforcement carbon rods?,well that is the plan for now,another option is,splice it in half and just laminate it ,i dont know yet.

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture018.jpg

  6. Here's another, less appearance altering idea...

    Slice off the heel on the current neck, plane the back of the neck and the top of the piece of heel you removed smooth. Then just glue the heel back on but about 2" forward. With such a dark wood, there's a very good chance that the seam will be almost entirely imperceptible.

    i think you are very right,i have glued rosewood before and it s hard to find the seam,maybe it wont show at all depending of course in how good i do it ,are you very certain it wont collapse though?, i really dont wanna build another neck for it , as you can tell,this really sound like a good idea to me.

  7. hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated.

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg

    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg

  8. my friend has an epi LP special, and he hated the pickups cause they sounded muddy to him,i actually kind of like a sound with a lot of lows and didnt mind the sound,anyway, i bought the pickups from him and put them in a LP i builtwith a 1inch maple top and a mahogany back,you wouldnt believe the difference in sound,is a lot more rounded much more highs in the tone,so i guess the wood does make a difference,my 10c

  9. ok everybody I am needing some help I have ben working on finishing a body right now I am on my 7th coat of clear and there are a few spots where there are little ridges where I gues the grain didn't get filled all the way does anyone know how i can fill them in.

    I ve heard of drop filling, burning sticks,or several other ways ,it will certainly help people around here to know what type of wood you are finishing,i am a newbie myself but in the past i have filled these kind of things with a bit of clear lacquer using a q tip,it worked for me.Good luck with that anyways.

  10. well,I made the jig with the pin aligned to the drill bit in the Drill press with a stop in 1/4 inch, the i used an old chisel that i got i dont know were with a plastic hammer to get rid of the chunks,it worked pretty good,then became tricky cause i dont wanna thin the platetoo much,I was using my orbital sander but took too long ,so i went and chiseled again,problem is I got some chips that left little holes,anyways after that i sanded and it seems to be oK, i only hope that I dont cry when i have to cothe same in the maple back,i arved maple before but always just the top and used even a grinder with the sanding device,didnt have to follow any pattern or thickness ,this is very different, by the way, i already ordered some spruce from someone on ebay ,I know it will be better tonewood and hopefully i ll heve a better idea of what to do by then.

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