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Posts posted by FireFly
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If you're leaving your guitar out in the sun to dry, the top coat will cure first. This will result in the bottom coats not being able to gas off properly. The result is a cloudy, uneven finish.
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Soooooooo much nicer without that red button... Seriously.
No disrespect intended.
Maybe one day you will hopefully seriously understand that I work on order and that the red button is a customers request...
No disrespect intended here either but this is pretty much the same as this:
"hey Hufschmid, do you also use chrome hardware on your guitars? It would look so much better with chrome!
Oh quick question, do you also use tone controls?"
Scientifics name this the first opinion's based impression (the human bug)
http://changingminds.org/articles/articles08/the_folly_of_first_impressions.htm
I didn't know you worked on commission. I guess it just surprises me that anyone would request a RED button. To each his own I guess.
And you sure put me in my place by sighting your sources, boy howdy. Nao Ah Feel Styupad.
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Soooooooo much nicer without that red button... Seriously.
No disrespect intended.
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With classical instruments, you have to play with long drawn out notes at first in order to get the wood used to vibrating at certain notes. It does actually help! I'd like to know more about the machine you're working on.
At some studios, they have a speaker that a violin rests on top of. The speaker vibrates at different frequencies and breaks in the instrument over time.
I really like seeing one piece of wood turn into an instrument! It sounds stressful to make though.
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Some Lowe's shops carry stanly planes. Its where I pick up blades. I think Ace Hardware carries them too.
Yeah, but the new Stanleys are low end hand planes. Ever since WWII, they've been pretty lousy.
*shrug*
The one I had was out of tune when I got it, but after I got it flat and sharpened, it works just fine.
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Some Lowe's shops carry stanly planes. Its where I pick up blades. I think Ace Hardware carries them too.
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A flat joint should hold itself as well. Titebond will secure a slightly imperfect joint, but there will be tension on the wood because of the imperfection. If your joint is perfect, you should be able to lay one face to the other, apply your hyde glue, and then apply only enough pressure to keep the two faces flat together, and you'll have a nice strong joint.
From a violin luthier's perspective
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Most stock guitars with a reverse headstock also have a radical body design which includes a radical tremolo (floyd rose, or any other locking nut deal). So when you see a stock guitar with a reverse headstock, its probably for asthetic value more than anything.
I'll stick with my 3x3 though
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Older guitars have necks made out of yellow birch. Its sturdy.
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I like the bridge lining jig thing. Simple, but it works!
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In all the pics where the pickups have some reflection on them, I like it. But on that one where you can see some swirrl and what looks like rust marks on the pickups, I don't like it.
So keep em clean
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oh em gee, I love the finish! Its so... clear! You get the shine, but you can still see the grain pores. I love how your logo sort of matches the sweep of the lower horn into the heal as well.
And your bonsai is very pretty
If I had to pick something I didn't like about it, it would be the "look" of the P90s. They need to be... cleaner... less old looking I guess.
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I think the back and front look like two completely different guitars. On of them needs to change lol. I saw the back first, and through it would be a shame to cover it with swirrl, but then I saw the front and said "yeah the back needs to go."
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that's hot.
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I have that B&D Mouse, and I'm totally trying that out!
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You have no idea how much I want a shop! I have money saved up for it and everything. I'm seeing a ton of deals at work, too and I can't act on any of them because I don't have the room in this apartment!
You're still welcome to my shop! (My new and improved shop!)
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I've just never seen the process. No one up here has actually ever requested it. I'm pretty interested in it. Its a shame you couldn't get a recording of before and after potting.
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I recommend cleaning the fretboard with a stiff toothbrush, and making sure you get all the grease and gunk out. If you want your board to be shiny again, maybe some bees wax would help. I can't recommend abrasives without a refret or some kind of fretwork, as the frets will get scraped, or you won't get close enough to the frets to do a good job.
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That's the first time i've ever seen anyone literally dip their pickups in wax. I always heard horror stories of people frying the pickups, and them never working again.
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I like this one. The soundholes with the color really do it for me I could see myself playing and owning this.
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I was going to mention the strap pin/tuning peg hole hanger idea. +1 to RestorationAD's jig!
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i like the neck burst. you don't see too many of those.
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Happy birthday Wes! Take a pic of you next to a cake holding an oversized carving knife and join our family tradition!
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That single-cut is gorgeous! I love the inlay, how the headstock compliments the body, and the pickup cover on the neck pickup. Who says you have to have matching neck/bridge pickups? I really want this lol
Protruding Frets
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
Wood glue only glues wood. By itself, its pretty brittle and probably won't hold a fret in. If you're trying to hold frets down, preradiusing will help before you install your frets. If the frets are already in, and they're sticking out the sides, then I would do what everyone has suggested and either dress them down, or get a humidifier...
It makes more sense to me to dress them down though, as I'd be annoyed if they stuck out the sides again.