FireFly

You shouldn't be in any danger at all while soldering a guitar, provided its not plugged in. If you have a guitar with active pickups (I'm assuming you don't, if you have a stock squire strat), then you should disconnect the battery before doing any work. You could get shocked... It won't hurt, but its kind of annoying lol.

Diagrams, drawings and/or photos are always a good idea before you start or jump into any wiring project. Good luck!

Wicked Like!!!

I was prouder of you when you did it all by hand.

THIS...jointer business...is just lazy.

Jealous?

I got mine for half the price of a nice hand plane ($50). I had to replace a blade, and get a friend to manufacture a fence on the mill for me. But It works the way it should!

That is the exact same jointer I have,except mine has a Delta sticker instead of Porter Cable.

Same here! Only mine says Sears Craftsman

I never liked steampunk unless it was executed well.

This one seems executed well! I like what I'm seeing

Well, in that case, I'd get a hardwood dowel, and a matching drill bit of the same size. Then drill somewhere in the cutting path with a similar sized drill bit to the hardwood dowel. Then use a coping saw with a fine tooth blade (slow and steady) to get the job done. You can use filler to fill in any gaps, and then fill the initial drill hole with the dowel.

Cripes! That's redonkulous! I would never pay more than 200 for a pickup! And even at that, it'd better be a friggin nice pickup at more than 150...

sha-lay-lee

There's going to be missing wood if you saw out a plug... I'm not sure how you're going to glue this in without any obvious lines in the front and back.

From a stock ibanez rg with with a fully bound fretboard, 5/16" from the center of the fret to the end of the fretboard.

What type of pad are you using for polishing?

Looks like he used a sock

I can still see some fine scratches on the headstock, and the right lighting does do wonders for shots like this. But there's no denying that someone put some time into that finish! That carve looks very comfy!

haha, that's one way to do it

Epoxy is what a lot of people use to fill gaps. They'll mix it with saw dust, put it on a plastic scraper, and slab over the gap. Then they'll sand it off. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be compatible with wood!

There is some nice quilt in that top! I would totally go for the relic effect if you could. I can see that grain popping through all the destruction nicely

Oh, so that's what the fat finger is for.

I will have to apologise to my girlfriend.

BWAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHA!!

I'm not very impressed by the design, but i know you do good work! So I'm interested in seeing the physical version of it

With water based polys, I've heard that it comes out milky, but dries clear... true? false?

You might be half a pole piece off on the bridge pickup...

You don't solder it,you just make sure the bare wire is on the side of the hole when you push the post in.

+1

Soldering it will only make it harder to get in place.

A lot of people on here will say you have to have the neck snug enough to support the weight of the body when you lift it.

I disagree, unless you're making a set neck. Even so, all your looking for is a "fit". There shouldn't ge any visible gap, but you shouldn't have to hammer the neck into place.

As Wes said, consider your finishing options during construction.

Gluing a fretboard with clamps and wood blocks just doesn't cut it IMO.

Normally you'd use a saw to cut. But i can see where you're coming from!

Is that a fret on the tailpiece? Also, do you use ferrules, or do you let the wood/finish do the work?

I really like the color scheme Initially it looked like a plain brown guitar, but with the top and fretboard in view, I like it a lot!

You can use petroleum jelly, or cork grease. Vasceline works just fine. Stay away from silicon based lubricants, as they can cause discoloration in woods if they leak into the bare wood of the machine head cavities!