FireFly

carving the top will give you the same result. I like to plane the edges of my joints so that they meet nice and flat. Then when I want to put a top on, its as easy as glue, drop, clamp, wait. Then I can carve the angles and bevles out the way I want.

I think the best way to get a smooth seamless join is to get a nice bench plane (#5 and up), tune it up nice and flat (check youtube for advice on this) sharpen the blade up, and *shhhhhhhhhhick!* plane it nice and smooth!

A jointer works, too

doit

Denatured alcohol will remove the sticky goop. As for filling in the holes, you could do that... And then go for a solid color finish. OR you could sand down and scrape what's left of the binding to shape... Or rebind. I guess I'd have to see it in person.

Oh man

I gotta see this one!

*thumbs up*

I've had a bloodwood fretboard thickness size blank sitting in the closet for a few years now. Its still straight as an arrow.

+1 to not sealing the wood except for the ends.

Pistachio from Oregon Wild Woods

Wez, when i look at your guitars, I'll be honest, i take a glance and decide whether or not i like it. I did like the mandosg, but now that I'm looking at it, you're right lol. There's some stuff on it.

I'll be more critical of your builds in the future

Seriously though, the only time I'm really critical is when I'm reading a post where someone is on a learning curve, or in GOTM when i write a full review. I sort of expect to see quality from people who are known for quality stuff, so all i see is quality when i look at it. I should pay attention lol.

We have lots of figured birch up here. It's the state tree!

As far as pine goes, i'll never understand why people use it for guitars. It's hard to work with, weak, dents easily, and there's a reason no big companies use it today. But i suppose if you're just doing it to do it because you've never done it before.

In my experience, every component of a guitar effects the tone. Different pickups will bring out different parts of character in each piece of the instrument.

I think you must check all parts to be well tightened....i dont think it's an issue of resonance....

+1 on that.

The break angle almost looks too steep. My guess is that the strings are touching or almost touching the TOM bridge on their way to the ferrules on the back and this is probably causing the buzzing. The strings must not touch the bridge body.

Muting the area behind the bridge fixed the problem. Not much to tighten on a guitar aside from the nuts under the control knobs and the one on the jack

Also, the guitar pictured isn't the one in question, that was one i found on google to use as an example, as the guitar has been fixed and returned to the customer.

Ah, didn't notice the logo... Sorry.

Looks like THIS

But the guitar is back with the customer, so what's done is done. I'm still open to other solutions for future use!

Well, I think you did a good job on this replica!

As far as forgeries go, our souls, you're kinda calling the kettle black aren't you? If I'm not mistaken, the explorer is a patented design.

Hahaha that's awesome!

BCRs always have a tendency to stab. It looks like you've eliminated this problem!

That's basically what i meant. You said it better though.

For this guitar, i ended up giving the customer some sleeves to put over the strings before he installs them. It's a cheap easy solution that doesn't involve me modifying the actual guitar, it doesn't ruin any aesthetic value that the instrument has...

I'd say more about the guitar itself, but it's hand made and i don't know if the luthier participates in this forum.

On a kahler, the strings are hooked onto the bridge using the string ball end. So adding mass to the wound part would solve that problem. On this guitar, there are several points of contact that eliminate vibration before you get to the ball end, including the bridge saddle, the back of the bridge where the string wraps over, the front ferrule, and the rear ferrule.

The problem on this particular v is the string space between the bridge and the ferrule. Because of the angle of the strings over the bridge (as Wes mentioned), vibration is able to easily travel down the length of the string and sustain itself behind the bridge, causing unwanted ringing.

That said, another solution is to raise the bridge and use various methods of neck angle adjustment to compensate for the added height

Thank you for the help!

You know when you play a strings through body guitar, with a TOM bridge, and you palm mute but you still hear this sort of breathing ringing sound? I have several solutions to this problem including tape, cloth, string braids, wolf note dampers (the professional solution lol), heat shrink tube, etc.

Care to share your solutions?

It looked more like a demonic representation that you'd find on Black Metal records before. It looks more like a normal goat now. I can't decide which version is more representative of you though.

That's sooooo you. I like it

I like Pukko's too though.

Make a Corvus with a carve inspired by an eg... I donna about a wood porn Corvus though... Maybe a natural mahogany one with a black pick guard beveled with white and... Basically a Corvus version of the lpjr.

You should make one with a multiscaled fretboard, inlays from rocks you found outside, LEDs, a wilkinson or trapeeze bridge, super carved top, and a lava burst finish!

Do it.

All the rates for any type of repair are by the hour at my shop. It depends on the work being done though.

That said, its around $20 an hour for finishing.

Ok, for those who were interested in the aluminum jig.

I simply bought some profiles, nuts and bolts and put it together. But there are a couple of companies who will build you anything you can think of with those things. Here's a link:

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/m...NUM%20EXTRUSION

somewhere in the bottom of that site there is a link to their store. Hope that helped.

Thankyou-thankyou!

-Amiee