samhell

The one we have can print on things a few inches thick. Not sure about printing on non-flat surfaces... We we have the solvient and vinyl printers / cutters too (some as big as a pickup truck) but when we first got this machine the first thing that came to mind was printing on guitar bodies... The guys said it could to that but I haven't tried it yet. I was more impressed with this too because the "ink" is more of a paint rather than that oily dye or pigment stuff inkjets usually use (we also have a bunch of those... z6xxx hp's and a huge lx600) I don't actually operate the machines, I just do all the networking to ensure they communicate correctly... When I get the chance I go over to that shop and drool on the CNC machine and these big printers...

You can find a reprographics shop that has something like this:

http://www.oceusa.co...845524441901408

They can print directly on your guitar body. Just draw up (or scan) your image and they can print out of Photoshop or Illustrator or whatever. We have one of these machines at work but I've never had them print on a guitar body for me... yet anyway... Just had them cut out templates with their CNC cutter. It prints with 6 or 8 colors (if I remember) and can even print white. The ink is pretty durable from what Ive seen but I'd probaby still coat it in poly or whatever finish is compatible.

Heres one printing on a door:

Interesting that most people don't even know machines like this exist... They are super expensive and kind of a niche market I guess...

hey guys, im completley new to this feild as after some tips.

I want to be able to make my own guitar, but im also a realistic person lol and know that its going to take a lot.

I want a small project to start practicing the skills ill need when making my guitar, i dont really have much woodwork experience, or many tools, so it would be a great help if someone had a small woodwork idea that i could get started with that didnt take many tools (as i will be buying them), but are the same tools needed in building a guitar.

Or any books or information that helped you when you were in my situation would be great!

thanks guys

While these guys are arguing about what is best and how to do it ( ) I can offer you what I have done, as I am still a total newb. The books are a great source of info. Lots of reading though... I've built kits, from templates, and one completely from scratch. You can get by with basic tools for a lot of this. I'd throw in a recommendation though for this DVD: http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Custom-Elec...1396&sr=8-3

It goes step by step for making a guitar. Way more information than you need actually. Its nice too because when you start building your own you can skip to the chapter that you need and see how this guy does it. I think most of his tools suck but he builds a decent instrument with them so they can't be all that bad.

This forum is also great. I've been lurking here like you wouldn't believe. Forget about searching, just start reading all the threads and hope your head doesn't explode. Woodworking forums like sawmillcreek.org are also a great resource.

As crappy as they are, something like a Saga strat kit will serve you well if you've never built anything or don't do any of your own setup.

I went with the Ridgid 4330. Its 13" with 3 blades. Very powerful, great dust collection, easy to replace the blades and easy to buy new blades from the local home depot. The blades can also be flipped once before you have to buy new ones. Built very solid. Has infeed/outfeed tables built in. I looked at the Dewalts and they were nice but more expensive and you have to buy the tables separately.

Keep in mind you have to set up the tables correctly or you get snipe with any of these small lunchbox type planers.

Build em yourself. I recommend a Dr. Boogie

Looks like an add on 0 fret. ?? I've seen a few guitars with a 0 fret. I thought a 0 fret has to be designed into the neck.... weird... hows this thing supposed to work? Seems like your intonation would get all messed up.

I thought the new EVH did have an angled back headstock? Something like 8 degrees... no? I don't have one but I am going to build one and I remember this from my research...

I used that Rustoleum Enamel a few years ago on a guitar. It NEVER cured. Sat there up until a few weeks ago when I finally stripped it off. It stayed soft the whole time. Years! So I suppose if the nitro actually stuck to the enamel it would still be soft. I'd like to know if someone gets this to actually work though.... theres all kinds of tasty Rustoleum Enamel colors!

That is a nice looking body. Great figuring. For the nut you need to measure the neck. R1 (39.something mm) is not as wide as R2 (42mm). I think the Ibanez Wizard necks use 43mm nuts which is neither R1 or R2. There is a chart with all the different locking nut sizes floating around on the web.

Thank you for the replies guys! I've built other guitars and have always measured to the saddles but that was with tune-o-matic type bridges. I assumed it was the same but I've never built anything from scratch with a Floyd Rose so I wasn't 100% sure.

Thanks again!

Greetings! I've been lurking this forum for a LONG time.

I am building an EVH Wolfgang clone using templates I got from www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com and have a question about where to measure for scale length. I haven't routed my neck pocket yet or drilled anything for the bridge. I have already routed the rear cavities (easier to do as its a body with a maple top) and the through cavity for the tremelo block. So, its a 25.5" scale and if I measure from the nut to the pivot studs its about 25.5" with the neck in position from the templates. If I measure from the nut to where the strings break over the saddles its over 26" with everything lined up from the templates and the saddles set in their middlemost postion. I can shift the neck towards the bridge to get 25.5" from nut to saddle but that seems to put the neck a little too far into the body.

Hope this made sense...

So, I guess the question is, with a Floyd Rose, do I measure from the nut to the studs or nut to the saddles?

Thanks!