shimmy

Great thanks for you help:)

soapbarstrat, thats so wierd, I was driving around for hours trying to find some matieral for this jon and those were the exact identical 2 things that I picked up....the steel tubing and the thick glass..did you have yours ground down? or just luck out and glued them together and they were flat?

Thanks

Ed

Hi I recently bought a japanese fender strat (a 62 reissue). The trussrod appears to be adjusted to its maximum (either that or its just stiffenen up because I cant get any more out of it). Also when i wind it all the way off the neck has a reasonable amount of bow in it (concave). I want to wind the truss rod off and level the fingerboard but without spending a fortune at stewmac.

I was planning on leveling the center of the board with something dead flat and then using my 7 1/4 inch radius block to take the flatspot out. Has anyone used a thick (about half inch) piece of glass laid on a flat bench with sand paper attached to it to level a board before? I planned on rubbing the neck on the glass instead of vice versa...

Thanks for any input..

Shimmy

Hi,

Ive done about 10 refrets now, but they have all been on strats that I have finished the back of the neck at the same time. I cant help but wonder, How do you file the fret end (tang) absolutely flush with the side of the fretboard without damaging the finish on the side of the fretboard?

please enlighten as Im sure its well known...I jst dont know

Cheers

Shimmy

Thanks for reply supernova,

good advice....

and I did buy it and my gosh its beautiful....

Im pretty sure it is basswood...its definately softer than my other strat...but it sounds amazing and feels amazing....

I just thought that it may be alder because it is a 62 reissue, and it wouldnt really be a true reissue if they used basswood....

But in anycase it feels and sounds great...and it was cheap

Thanks again,,

Ed

Hi, I may be buying a strat today and i was hoping someone could help me with a few questions.

its a Japanesse 62 Reissue manufactored in '89....It does have a sunburst finish and I am really trying to find out what timber it is made from. I know that some of the strats that were exported in the 80's were made from basswood...Im really hoping its alder.

If anyone can get back to me with perhaps a way you can tell by the grain of the wood etc that would be great...

Thanks alot..

Shimmy

Hi,

I dont know if its what your after but I have some African Swamp ash i think its called? its quite heavy and dense...its been cut for the making of a bass, i think its 45mm thick. Its some nice looking wood.

Im on the Gold coast...jst email me @ shim_elf@yahoo.com if your interested

Hi, just revisiting this topic,

First thanks for the replys. I still havent managed to find one yet. Moneys not really an issue, Im willing to spend up to 3000US or so.

I just had a question though. I was thinking....what if I were to buy steel string accoustic such as a Cort Earth 900, Cort Earth 900, and possible replace the bridge and string it up with nylon strings...

Has anyone had any experience with this? Any idea how it would be different in sound to a standard classical?

Thanks alot,

Eddie

yea jester that look nice....maurits..is that the one with the 46mm nutwidth?

Hi,

I have a friend who has small hands and has a hard time

playing classical guitars. I was wondering if anybody new of a classical guitar with a nut width of 1 9/16 (40mm)...I dont think that they would make them in full size, but I was thinking more 3/4 size...

Any info would be great

Thanks alot

Shimmy

Yea i think a bending Iron may be the go.....I do want to make a mandolin after this so it'll be a worthy investment...I think Ive seen them on ebay USA for around $30?

Hi, I was just wondering if anybody knew wheter a bending iron was absoultely necessary for making a small uke.....Ive never done any bending whatsoever but I was thinking if I soaked the sides in water, then heated it witha normal clothes iron, then while its still warm clamped it to the inside of the jig.....

Would this be an option?

Thanks

Ed

Hi MATT yea I really want to put alot of effort in and make it really nice....its actually for my daughter......shes only 2 so I got plenty of time ...I really want to do some inlays and have been doing quite a bit of research on doing it....has anyone here had much experience with it? Iwas just wondering how intricate I Could get without having a CNC machine....I just looked at that 11pages of the violin you made....it looks amazing....thought you might know a thing or 2 about it ... I was thinking of using mahogany for the whole thing and was going to try to use a diff wood for a binding...

Hey tirapop...thanks for those links....alot of info there

cheers

shimmy

Hi,

Ive got this strong urge to make a Ukulele...Ive done alot of guitar maintanance work, refretting etc and have built a nice bass but have never done any work on something accoustic.....

i want to start with a high quality uke with binding and nice inlays etc...you dont seee all that many ukes that have been made the same quality as a accoustic guitar..

Just wondering if anyone knew of a good tutorial on the net for building one?

Thanks alot

Shimmy

Hi,

Ive done quite a few refrets now but the have all been electric guitars...Ive always been curious as to how people refret say a accoustic with no binding and the side of the fretboard varnished glossy....How does one go about filing the fret ends flush with the side of the fretboard without damaging the finish?

Can it be done? or do people normally jst touch the clear up?

Yea its definately the fret slot that has been cut crooked....

I plan on mixing some fine similar colored dust as the fretboard to the areldite and using that...the slots arent very deep so it should work ok..

Thanks

Ed

Hi I did put a post on accoustic forum, but I guess all guitars have fret slots

Basically I have a Uke with 3 frets that have been put in very slightly crooked...

Im looking to fill these 3 slots and re cut them straight..the idea of using vineer to fill them has been suggested to me but because I am only replacing 3 frets, I wanted to do as least amount of sanding as possible because the fretboard has been stained and sprayed with nitrocellulose...

I was hoping to tape up the fretslots individually and use some form of epoxy perhaps mixed with some fine dust to fill them and wipe it flush with the fretboard..

Someone did suggeset using arelidite.....Basically to get the fret straight Ill be using half the original fret slot so the filler has to be really strong,,

Any help would be very appreciated..

Thanks

Ed

Great that works really well...

One more thing..has anyone had any expirience filling fret slots with areldite? mabye mixed with a bit of fine dust?

Thanks Ed

Great thanks alot Ill give it a go..

does anyone know a website where I can get the correct measurements for the new frets? because the ones in there are crooked, I'll want to re measure..

Thanks ,

Ed

Hi,

I have a ukalele to fix for a friend...he had it fretted years ago to his taste (only 5 frets) for some reason, the middle 3 are all very slightly crooked (not square with the nut)

I am going to replace the frets and cut new slots but I was wondering what the best thing to fill the existing slots with is...

Any help would be very appreciated

Thanks

ed

Hi...I made a very sillly mistake while refretting my classical guitar...

the card board i used to protect the top turned out to be not quite thick enough

I made a ding about a 1/4 inch long with the crowning file ....

it went thru the finish into the wood......its a la patrie motif and they have that very silky mat finish on top.....

jst wondering if anyone has any suggestions about fixing it.......i feel like such a goof....

thanks alot

Hi all,

Well I have recently purchased a really nice classical guitar, but as we all know classical guitars are commonly found with flat fretboards...

So, I plan on re-radiusing the fret board to a 12 degree radius then fat fretting it...

I have noticed (Im not sure whether this is common in accoustics or not) that the fretboard does arch up slightly about on the 12th fret (where it leaves the body)...

I was just hoping that anyone who has had previous experience in re-radiusing a fret board could give me any advice or 'lessons' they learned along the way...

Thanks alot,

Shimmy

Thanks alot for all the feedback.....

I have proceeded to fret it and with accurately measuring the fret tangs, i mananged to cut the fret slots jst deep enough to fit the tang and it managed to stay in the fretboard ok....

about the trussrod.......the bend is not extremely major...Im hoping that when i string it up, the tension will pull the neck right....

But yes, I would like to try and work it from the exterior only...

Thanks again for the feedback

Shimmy

hahaha....no really the frets were so small and flat they were nearly non existant...

anyway...it turned out that i basically cut thru to about where the fret board just ends but the frets seemed to sit in there ok...

I have come across another dilema tho...the truss rod appears to be loosened all the way off and when i go to tighten it, it is extremely hard to do....i cant actually get it past a certain point and it is still not tightened enough....

I was wondering if there is a way to mabye lubricate it?

Hi all,

Ive jst aquired a original 63 Fender Duo Sonic that is in desparate need of work....the frets are extremely thin and I have started pulling them out to replace them with fat frets....

the problem is is that hte fret board is very thin...in order to deepen the fret slots enough for the new tangs, I will pretty much have to cut thru to where the rosewood meets the maple. Is this a problem?

Im going to be respraying and redoing the whole guitar...Ill be posting pics

Thanks alot

Ed

I see...so theres no realy easy way to do it......hehe.....

thanks for your help