sbandyk

Old Thread but I found it so I'm sure other people will happen across it too.

The 58 and 60s have different dimensions in the wings but most of the dimensions are pretty similar.

Note: I don't own either model. The following numbers are the result of internet research and a blueprint I've purchased from EBay, which I believe to be accurate. Don't take any of this as gospel but hopefully this will get people going.

If you're dead set on a historically accurate repro.. buy a template.

The neck is standard gibson.

You should pick neck dimensions (width, thickness) that you prefer though IMHO.. unless it's more important to be historically accurate.

These are my notes.. sorry if the formatting is a bit rough here.

I've typed out all my notes and some are a bit jumbled.

1.6875" at nut

12.375" at 12th fret.. width 2.062"

17.805" at 22nd fret.. width 2.226"

60s neck

Peghead Pitch: 17 degrees

Thickness at 1st Fret: 0.800

Thickness at 12th Fret: 0.850

Heel Length: 0.625

Neck Joint Location: 17th fret

Fingerboard Species: Ebony

Scale Length: 24 3/4 in.

Total Length: 18.062

Number of Frets: 22

Nut Width: 1.687 in.

Width at 12th Fret: 2.260 in.

17 5/16" truss rod channel

Fret markers should be at least .05" thick.. 1.3mm

NECK: <-- '58? doh!! didn't make a note!

Headstock

7" tip to nut

Scale length

24.75"

Fretboard length

17.8" from nut to 22nd fret. board should be ~18"

Fretboard Width

1 11/16" at nut

2 1/4" at 22nd fret

BODY: <-- '58 V

Centerline Length

11 1/4" from the crotch of the V to the point where the upper curves end

Width of body at shoulders (by neck).. where the curves turn into the outside strait length of the wings.

4 25/32"

Curve radius for wings and crotch

1" radius (they follow contour of a 2" diameter circle)

Outside Length of wings

19" flat.. from the start of the curves

Height of wing, from centerline to the topmost or bottom most point of wings.

8 11/32"

thickness of body

1 3/4" (I'd verify this if I were you)

The 68 body is more pointy. The radius of the curve at the end of the wings and at the Crotch follow a 1 1/2" DIAMETER circle. I print some up off my computer (Adobe Illustrator) and trace them on the body. I've got my router template on order though so I'll just trace that when I get it.

I hope all of this helps.. at least gets you started.

Ok i went on Warmoth and was looking at the tune o matic bridges and it say you need a 1.5 to 3 degree angle of the neck pocket to use a tune o matic bridge. My question is that are there any tune o matic bridges that you dont have to do that and if not, how would you do that.

The short answer is no. The tune-o-matic bridge is just taller than a typical strat-style bridge. It is what it is.

If you really wanted to, you could recess the tune-o-matic into the body but you'd have to take care to keep the intonation screws above the surface of the body.. or carve out access behind the bridge. It'd be an enormous pain to intonate if you had to pull the bridge each time you wanted to adjust a saddle.

I haven't done this myself but I've considered for the kid's guitars. sometimes you need to make some compromises when all you've got is full sized hardware on a 21" scale guitar. I found some slightly narrow bridges on eBay but they're basically sitting on their bellies to get them low enough. I don't want my little les pauls to be strung up like a violin (bridge height).